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Koni inserts, feedback?

craiginuk

Member
Hi all,

I am considering fitting these inserts into my std Sachs struts. Just wanted a bit of feedback from those who have installed them. Is the bolt arrangement into the new insert sufficient? I understand a hole needs to be drilled into the centre of the bottom of the casing to allow an m12 bolt to fit through to secure the Koni insert. Is this nice and solid?

Also I guess I just use my existing springs etc. anything to watch out for?

Cheers
Craig
 
Measure twice, cut once! It's a bit of a "one shot" process.

The inserts have 3 dimples on them which means they need force to drive them all the way into the strut casing (I simply banged the strut body firmly onto the garage floor and let inertia carry the insert into position). The consequence of this is that it would probably be a bit of a ****** to get the insert back out again if something wasn't quite right. So you need to be confident in your cut length and in the size and concentricy of the 14mm hole in the bottom of the strut casing. Having said that, you can always fettle the 14mm hole with a dremel if the bolt doesn't want to line up with the threaded boss on the bottom of the insert.

Also if you are going to paint or powdercoat the strut casings I would have this done after the cutting but before fitting the inserts.
 
Thanks M3. Am I right in assuming these can be fitted without height adjustment kit? So just as a replacement for std shock? Also regarding the 3 lugs/tabs that slide into the old casing, I've seen another guide which shows the strut being cut shorter so that these tabs rest on the cut face of the strut. Are you saying you leave the strut casing longer so these tabs bet jammed into the casing?

See pic below:

fbe0f386fe2fe12ef03bb9738661fb61_zps090d9174.jpg
 
Yes, I fitted mine just as replacements for the original without the height adjustment kit.
I cut my strut bodies to the length quoted in the instructions (can't remember what it was) and found that when I dropped the inserts in, the 3 tabs meant the bottom boss fell short of the bottom of the insert by about 20mm. That was when I realised that the insert needed forcing into the strut bodies and that the purpose of the tabs was to centralise the insert in the strut body. I thought the bolt might be long enough to catch on a couple of threads and wind the insert into the body but it wasn't. But a sharp bang on the floor carried the insert home.
I think if you were to cut the bodies shorter and leave the tabs sitting on the shoulder of the body like in your photo then the tabs wouldn't be doing anything and any bending forces in the strut would cause wear between the insert and the strut body. To me, the tabs need to be inside the strut to do their job.
 
I put some on my S2 last year - as Monkey says - follow the procedure outlined by Koni - they engineered this solution so they know how it best works. I used the Koni procedure where you draw the insert into the cut tube using the new center bolt rather than trying to drive the insert into the tube - I think it ensures the insert goes in straight and true. And yes the tabs need to be inside the cut portion of the tube otherwise the insert will be rattling around in the cut tube - having the interference fit between the tabs and the tube is what maintains the strut centrally inside the spring. If you cut the tube shorter so that the tabs are outside the tube when the insert is all the way in - you have ruined your old strut and have a set of inserts that are of no use to you.

Since installing them I took a 1600 km round trip over the Rocky Mountains - big improvement over my original stockers (even tho they only had 100,000 kilometers on them) when set to full soft. For a turbo I'd start with mid settings and see how you like them.

 
Another vote for them from me. Did them on my car a few years back, and although they haven't done many miles since (car has been in storage for a bit while life got in the way) I can honestly say they transformed my car from a wallowy mess to a nice tight but supple ride.

Installation is easy if you follow the instructions carefully as mentioned above. Just make sure you drill a small vent hole for the pressure at the top of the strut body (above your cut line), this will ensure when you drill the fixing hole at the bottom, the oil in the body runs out rather than sprays out while you're drilling. Ask me how I know.............lol

If you have any questions when you're ready to cut up your struts just shout. It's been a while since I did mine, but I'm sure it'll al come back to me if required

Cheers,

Mike
 
Ignore that, just had a look and one of my dust covers is trashed and the other one is on its way out too. Will try opc for some.
 
Konis all fitted as well as a staggered set of Bridgestone Potenza S02s. Car is transformed! Really chuffed with how it feels. Konis set to full soft feels good.
 
That's great, glad you're happy with your decision. - I bet you wish you'd done it sooner now...
 

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