Laid Up over winter, initial spring Start Up

[TimG]

Although here in the UK we are in the grip of the Beast from the East 2, my thoughts are turning to the spring which is hopefully just around the corner.

I know I will likely be chastised for not driving it but I chose to laid up my 718 GT4 in a dry block built garage from mid-October with a Ctek battery conditioner, cover and tyre cushions. There seems to be two schools of thought surrounding starting the car up, letting it warm up every couple of weeks or so and the other to simply leave it and start it in the spring. I chose the latter.

However, as the initial start up looms (hopefully soon) I was wondering if there was a ‘safe procedure’ that I should employ, like removing ignition and fuel pump fuses and turning over the engine a couple of times to bathe parts with oil before replacing the fuses and starting up? If I’m to remove the fuses, would any of you know which ones specifically?

 

[JohnCRS]

Hi Tim.

My understanding is that the best approach is to just start it and let it warm through. I suspect that if you remove fuses or do anything other than just turn the key, the vehicle's systems could throw a wobbly (a NE technical term) and you start to see warning lights. But, I have not tried it!

Once the car has stood for a day or so, whether you run it next day, next week or next month really shouldn't make much difference, and the fastest way to get all the fluids circulating properly is the normal start up procedure. You have maintained the battery properly so it should be good to go.

Soon, I hope.

 

[TimG]

Thanks for the clarity and confindence booster.

 

[ScottishSpyder]

I lay up my 2.9 987.2 Boxster and when you first start the car the tappets are noisy until it warms up and the oil has moved round the block. Same every year as the oil is all in the sump. I don't know if my 4.0 Spyder will be similar.

 

[TimG]

I'm led to believe and this seems logical that it's best to simply (check tyre pressures etc.), start it and go for a low sub 4,000 rev drive to warm the engine and other components though rather than letting it sit to warm up.

I'm chomping at the bit for some dry less salted weather...

 

[Motorhead]

Tim,

I think that it’s always best to drive the car rather than let it idle and warm-up but I’m not of the opinion that the latter does any harm; it’s just that it will take longer to get everything up to temperature, the oil and cats in particular. Plus, you’re not exercising the transmission, wheel bearings, tyres, suspension, etc., which of course is desirable.

Just my tuppence worth - and your guess is as good as mine - but in my experience machines in general are best used than lying idle, and cars are no exception to this.

Jeff

 

[DWaldie]

Mine has been wrapped up for the past three months. I'll not start it until I take it for a drive, and then I'll make sure everything is fully warmed before putting it back in the garage. Can't wait

 

[Kaiser981]

Asked my specialist the same question yesterday and their advice was to start the car and drive it rather than letting it just idle. Wee 10 mile journey or so to get oil temp up and nice and easy. I've managed to get the car out over winter, when we haven't been under snow, our council doesn't know what road salt is so there is no chance of me getting any of that up around the car [8D]

 

[JohnCRS]

Yes - apologies for any confusion. I always assume there is only one reason to start the car - to drive it and it ensures everything gets warmed through to normal operating temperature.

Actually, It is amazing how long that takes. My oil temp takes three miles to even register a temp in current conditions. It must take the gearbox considerably longer.

 

[AndrewCS]

Actually, It is amazing how long that takes. My oil temp takes three miles to even register a temp in current conditions. It must take the gearbox considerably longer.

The GT4 is much quicker to warm up than the CS and CR were.

Re. the gearbox ... our previous A45 AMG semi auto had a gearbox oil temperature read out, used to take seven to ten miles of `normal` operation to reach the optimum reading. T`was something that I always considered when out in the CS PDK.

 

[DWaldie]

Yes - apologies for any confusion. I always assume there is only one reason to start the car - to drive it and it ensures everything gets warmed through to normal operating temperature.

Actually, It is amazing how long that takes. My oil temp takes three miles to even register a temp in current conditions. It must take the gearbox considerably longer.

Yes - apologies for any confusion. I always assume there is only one reason to start the car - to drive it and it ensures everything gets warmed through to normal operating temperature.

Actually, It is amazing how long that takes. My oil temp takes three miles to even register a temp in current conditions. It must take the gearbox considerably longer.

Good excuse for a proper drive

 

[GeeDog]

My oil temp initially shows slightly lower than ambient temp on start up by a couple of degrees, which seems unlikely. Kinda irrelevant in the scheme of things. Takes a good 6-7 miles of sub 4,000 rpm with lightish throttle in recent conditions to get to 80/90c. I don't fire it up or take it out unless I can get it to full working temperature.

 

[Ryan9729]

Tim,

I think that it’s always best to drive the car rather than let it idle and warm-up but I’m not of the opinion that the latter does any harm; it’s just that it will take longer to get everything up to temperature, the oil and cats in particular. Plus, you’re not exercising the transmission, wheel bearings, tyres, suspension, etc., which of course is desirable.

Just my tuppence worth - and your guess is as good as mine - but in my experience machines in general are best used than lying idle, and cars are no exception to this.

Jeff

Jeff,

I think you are spot on; Just starting the car and letting it idle up to temperature is a recipe for increased wear and carbon build up for the following reasons:

- Oil pressure at idle is at its lowest (assuming mechanical pump, I need to do some research on these engines).

- the ECU enrich feature will be active longer during the warm up cycle if the car is just idling meaning you are actively targeting a mixture richer than stoichiometric ideal, excess fuel increases wear and induces carbon deposits.

Not sure if Porsche's have this feature but a lot of vehicles if you hold the accelerator pedal flat to the floor on start up it'll disable the fuel flow to the engine allowing you to get the oil pressure up after long periods of inactivity. This or removing the fuel fuse would be my go to for a start up post winter storage. Carl

 

[DWaldie]

Laid mine up in the garage for 4 months over the winter. No problems at all with 8nitial start up and drive but, after a couple of long drives the EML came on. Turned out to be a fault with the high lift cam solenoid. Apparently quite common with low mile cars that have been stood for a while. Thankfully, covered on warranty.

This winter I aim to drive it once a week. The weather might not play ball though