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Lindsey camber plates??

J

JarmoL

New member
Hi there,

Anyone out there with Lindsey camber plates? I am looking for a set because the originals are worn and clunking. Lindsey's set is attractively priced but how about the quality and durability?
These will go into my turboS which has orignal springs still.. it appears that Lindsey has proper spring hats for them though.. well actually they are designed to be fitted with the original spring hats so they will have effect on cars ride height. As I have M030 I can adjust the ride height..but.. the question is how much do these "double hats" affect the ride height?? I got response from Lindsey that I "might" have to cut my springs. I'd like to know for sure before ordering!

Thanks,
Jarmo
 
A mate of mine has fitted them - they seem to have increased ride height by 30mm or so. I don't know if Chris has the original springs fitted, but even with M030 he's not been able to drop the front enough yet.

They do look nicely made & are very easy to adjust


 
I have them and I am happy with them so far. I have KW suspension though, so I can't comment on fitment. Rick has them with M030 on WUF and it sits at the right height, so he can possibly comment on how that was achieved.
 
Do you need the adjustability that the Lindsey plates provide? If not then have you considered the mounts from ESS? They are non-adjustable but have a proper metal bearing and don't alter the ride height. From the accounts I've read they seem pretty good and they are definately on my shopping list.
 
I'll be wanting some of these for LIL to increase the camber when on track. I always wear out the outside edge of the front tyres due to increased cornering forces and am tired of throwing away tyres that are perfectly serviceable across the centre and inside.

Does anyone know if adjusting the camber with these plates throws all the other alignment out of whack (caster and toe in etc)
 
Thanks for your comments,

I should have mentioned that my car is mainly used as a trackday car so I really want to have adjustable plates to get more grip and to reduce front tire wear. Adjusting camber will have effect on other settings ( toe and caster?) but I guess it's not that significant?
BTW 30mm increase in ride height sounds like a lot.. Maybe it's really necessary to cut the springs then.
Ps. Where can I have a look at the ESS strut mounts?

Jarmo
 
My experience of the adjustable ones is that they transformed my car from slightly understeery to completely planted at Oulton last year when I went from the minimum to maximum camber setting. Perhaps the car would have understeered still, but I wasn't going fast enough to unstick either end after adjusting.

It does upset the toe slightly; I forget which way for sure, but we set my car up with the road camber and the toe at one extreme of the tolerance so that it goes as little out of whack as possible when the camber is increased. My minimum camber is 1 degree negative and the maximum is 3.5 degrees as I recall and it rings a bell that the toe varied by something like 22 minutes between the two extremes. We expected the toe to wear tyres, but after a full day at Oulton with about 2/3 of the time on maximum negative camber (plus the trip home as I broke my ball ended Allen bit trying to reset it) didn't show anything untoward just nice lumps of melted rubber across the full width of all 4 track tyres and nothing nasty on the road ones.
 
Can you just cut springs to lower the ride height? I wouldn't like the idea of that. Apart from the fact that the last coil at each end is flattened to seat nicely on the mounting cups where a cut spring would try to sit up on the cut edge of the coil and thereby bending the spring into an arc, in cutting the coil spring short you are actually softening the stiffness of the spring as there is a shorter coil of metal in the spring. Wouldn't you be better mounting the camber plates on a 30mm shim? (assuming they are mounted on top of the strut towers from inside the engine bay rather than from under the wheel arches).
 
The camber plates are mounted under the inner wing so you can't shim them.

Cutting the springs actually increases the stiffness as you are taking one of the coils out and with it part of the flex from the spring. It's OK to do, but to do it right you should flatten the cut end like the original which is not all that easy with sprung steel. It's pretty much a bad idea with progressive springs, mind.
 
ORIGINAL: Fen

It does upset the toe slightly; I forget which way for sure, but we set my car up with the road camber and the toe at one extreme of the tolerance so that it goes as little out of whack as possible when the camber is increased.
Click to expand...

I saw something about the camber setting affecting toe on the 968 forum, maybe they should have a note with the camber plates that toe is affected.

I had the toe adjusted on my car on monday at the local tyre fitters, they have a brand new optical alignment bed running Windows XP ;). Noticed that the camber is affected by adjusting the toe, got a nice printout with before and after measurements too. Its got Jim Bean at the top of the printout so guess thats the make of the alignment machine. Only cost me £20 to have the toe adjusted and the printout with all alignment figures ;)

Cheers

Dave K.
 
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