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Manual Gearbox removal

Cortina

New member
Any tips on this before I start ? Looks to me like gearbox will have to drop a bit before it has enough room to come backwards to disconnect from torque tube driveshaft ? That says to me rear alloy subframe will have to be lowered ... can I do this and leave rear suspension in place / attached ?
Practical advice please ... as opposed to what it says officially !!
 
disconnect drive shafts
disconnect bolts connecting torque casing to gearbox
disconnect selector coupling rod and sensors on gearbox
attach engine to crane
remove fans from radiator
disconnect fuel pipes on rail
remove engine crossmember bolts from chassis whilst lifting engine
lever forward engine and torque tube
lower gearbox slowly and keep engine all way forward

should get enough room to disconnect allen bolt coupler and release then gearbox should come

probably missed something but a good start

cheers
 
Thanks for response - I have had another look , and since my car is modified (it's a rally car !!) the g'box only has to drop about 2" at most to allow it to come straight out backwards ... on std car this won't work due to deep body members (battery / fuel tank ??) behind gearbox... so I'm just going to try a slight tilt on the engine mounts which should allow this to happen (will leave suspension connected to subframe and just let it drop on longer bolts (if I can find some !!)
cheers
 
Got it out ! Not a five minute job........
Can't see what is wrong , anyone got ideas / know these boxes ?
The issue - The "natural" (sprung loaded) position for the selector mechanism is in the 4th gear / 5th gear plane ........... I don't think it should be ! ie when changing out of first - tendancy is to go straight into 4th hmm. It's a later box with "spring mechanism" at the side (adjustable ... tried it both ways) , as opposed to the torsional spring on the selector shaft.
Ideas please ?
PS does / did anyone ever make an alternative final drive ratio for these things (geared for 125 / 130 mph ??)
 

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