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Ripmax

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Driving home yesterday and lost at least one cylinder, coincidentally when I put the air con on. The engine check lamp is on now. No smoke or steam or leaks. Thoughts? I cant think of much I can do until I can get it on a diagnostic machine.
 
Orcam's razor, investigate the easy things first, so like Sam Quick says, investigate coil packs and plugs. We have an example of a 944 reg member, I will spare him the embarrassment, who videoed a horriblle knocking noise and asked for ideas. Instead of checking the simple things he bought a secondhand engine and changed it over, only to find that, post change, examination revealed the rotor arm was knocking against one of the segments in the 'strib cap.
 
Found no3 cylinder coil pack was melted. It was replaced but the new one melted within 10mins of running. Thoughts anyone?
 
Yep, melted. I'll post a pic at some point. Yep heat shields are in place. They were new last year. Could it be the plug? How do you test a plug?!
 
Which part melted then? The tube, or the coil end? Was the plug tight?

I doubt the plug would generete that much heat, unless it was a bad seal between ceramic and steel, and it was leaking cylinder gasses. First thing would be to take the plug out and take a look. Replace it anyway.
 
This is exactly the same fault as mine. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/26119-blown-ignition-coil/ although I've not found the source of the short yet.
 
Update: My car's with an independent specialist and he's sure there is no short in the wiring and that the short is in the ECU (that's melting the coil on the ECU side). I've been quoted £1600+VAT for a new ECU. The garage has warned me to be very careful buying a used ECU off a breaker unless they'll guarantee to take it back if it can't be programmed for my car. The key thing, other than matching the ECU to my old one, is to know the chassis number of the donor car - this is a mandatory requirement.

Questions:

1) Does anyone know of a company that repairs ECUs?
2) Does anyone know of a reliable source of used ECUs that will take the unit back if it doesn't work on my car?
3) Is there any value in a broken ECU? (linked to the first question I suppose)?
 
The DME has to be programmed with the immobiliser key to match your alarm module. The only way to program a used DME is to know the Porsche IPAS security codes for the donor vehicle. So even if you have the VIN for the donor car, Porsche are unlikely to give the IPAS codes. They only usually do it if you can prove ownership of the vehicle.

You can buy a matched set of alarm unit, DME, and keys from exactly the same model, but bear in mind you will never be able to get an extra or replacement keyhead for it.

I don't know anyone who does repairs, I'm afraid.
 
Hi,

I thought I had an ecu issue a while back (diagnosis showed a cam sensor fault). I got the ecu bench tested and it was confirmed working fine. Worth a try for £60, they can also fix too.

I used bba reman for the testing.

Hope this helps

Jetbox
 
Richard, you're calling the unit a DME - what does that stand for? I've got pics of the unit (attached).

56C28E3A2E864DB59C7BC75E96680DB7.jpg
 

DME = Digital Motor Electronics (or the German equivalent) = ECU

I'm pretty sure that's what your picture shows, but Richard will no doubt confirm.

Jeff
 

It sounds as though a DME bench test would certainly be worth a try Doug. It may just be a faulty component (power transistor?) on that output - hopefully, relatively cheap and easy to rectify.

Good luck.

Jeff
 
I've spoken with BBA and they've not said the ECU is irreparable so it'll go off to them and I'll have everything crossed. It takes two to three weeks.
 
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