New Car Need Advice (Cold Start + Performance)

Mrkjblue · May 11, 2005

Hi all
I have picked up my new car and it seems great only couple of issues.
Mainly will ony start from cold with "easy start" then runs like a charm and will start with ease after that, sounds like the warm up regulator but is there anything else that should be looked at.
Also I need the best proven bolt on performance mods I need as much as I can get without opening her up.
Wider throttle bodies?
Exhaust Airfilter combos? I know they werent much good on the 944 but how does the 924 respond?
Any second hand parts? Cage? Compomotive Wheels?

924nutter · May 11, 2005

Definitely use the wide throttle body kn filter combo. £150 well spent. My wife bought me one for christmas a couple of years ago, and it's almost, almost as good as fitting a different cam. You could combine that with fitting 65 series tyres instead of 185 70s and trade off the extra rpm from the throttle mods for better acceleration and retain the approx 126 mph top speed.

Avoid the stainless exhuast, IMHO it doesn't seem to flow as well( it may just be a perception,) and use the Audi centre box, as the porsche one has a restriction in it.

AirCooledExcellence · May 11, 2005

Kev,

Starting could be the cold start valve faulty/not activating?

For the compomotive's put a post on the Porsche Racing Drivers forum, a few of the guys have switched to other makes of wheels this season so someone have some up for grabs.

Cage's - Don't go for the cheapest like I did (rollcentre £400) otherwise you'll end up with a bunch of bent pipes that have to be welded together (big welding bill - £500!!) I sent mine back and bought a 3 part bolt/weld from safetydevices (£600), fitting cost for this was £200. It's much nicer cage all powder coated, looks the business.

Can't comment on the performance mods (leaving my engine standard this year), although would be interested in where the throttle bodies can be purchased from.

Good luck!

Tim.

924nutter · May 11, 2005

Porscheshop, Halesowen. < http://www.porscheshop.co.uk >

924nutter · May 16, 2005

Actually MRK, if you car starts from cold with easy start and purrs like a kitten once it is running then I think it is more likely to be the fifth injector, as the warm-up,or to give it it's correct name,(which also helps to describe its' fuction) the control pressure regulator, continues to regulate the control pressure, and thus enrich the mixture after the engine has started. I my opinion the symptoms you would see if the C.P.R. was not working would be an engine that started and stopped after a few seconds, which would immediately restart, then stop, until eventually it warmed up, whereupon it would start and stay running.

Anyone else any thoughts?

Mrkjblue · May 16, 2005

Thanks John I have ordered both the cold start injector and warmup reg. (both second hand but tested)
so I will replace the injector first (looks a lot easier anyhow)

Mrkjblue · May 17, 2005

Ok I have checked the cold start (5th) injector and it is not activating soo looks as if its the thermo timer switch which seems an absoloute pig of a job and the haynes is not much help, so, any tips on changing?

924nutter · May 23, 2005

Mark the position of the distributor with tippex then start the engine and run it till the cooling fan cuts in. As quickly as you can, remove the cap and mark the rotor arm with tippex and then unclamp the 'strib body and lay it to one side. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket to crack the two bolts that secure the casting that the thermo-man switch(sic) screws into. The idea of having the engine hot is to minimise the risk of snapping off one of the bolts. Once you have got about half a turn you can let the engine cool and remove the coolant pipes and withdraw the whole assembly.

vincematthews · Aug 19, 2005

Looking through old posts and came across this one.
Just for the record, it is possible to take the casting (that the thermo time switch is screwed into) off without removing the distributor 'cos I had reason to do it recently.
It obviously gives better access to remove the distributor but I'm naturally lazy [

]

ORIGINAL: 924nutter

Mark the position of the distributor with tippex then start the engine and run it till the cooling fan cuts in. As quickly as you can, remove the cap and mark the rotor arm with tippex and then unclamp the 'strib body and lay it to one side. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket to crack the two bolts that secure the casting that the thermo-man switch(sic) screws into. The idea of having the engine hot is to minimise the risk of snapping off one of the bolts. Once you have got about half a turn you can let the engine cool and remove the coolant pipes and withdraw the whole assembly.