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Newbie & boost enhancer / accuboost

hartge bob

New member
After being ratted out by Allan (uktrucks) in the for sale forum after buying a 944 turbo from him, and being spotted there by slim and diver944, I thought I'd better put in an appearance on here after lurking for a few months.

So, I now have a 1988 944 Turbo 220 which is stock except for 17" cup replicas and a blueflame stainless exhaust.

As I mentioned I have been lurking for a while and have naturally come across the seemingly obligatory upgrades offered by ProMax.

Wanting to start off gently on the slippery slope to modification, I just have a couple of questions on the boost enhancer and accuboost.

Are these the same device apart from the accuboost having the ability to be adjusted without tools?

Also I have spotted acouple of threads recently that say that the cycling valve should be by-passed when fitting an accuboost. Is this only necessary when you have Guru chips fitted or would it be better to do this with an otherwise stock system.

Already feel like the credit card is in imminent danger as a dangerous game of keep up with the boost boys begins.

Rob
 
Ah theres no way back now mate....lolsss

The CV will still be funtional with the standard chips, and should prevent you overboosting (i.e. turning the controler passed about 12-13psi.

I found that the CV was really messing up the Accuboost, but i am trying to run 18psi and over 300bhp!! [8D] But that might mean that my CV was a bit dodgy. They are supposed to work connected to the CV. Its really really easy bypassing it.

You do get a much more accurate reading bypassing the CV, but you really must fit an after market boost gauge before you do anything, very easy to fit and i got a VDO one form the US for about £30 looks the dogs...
 
Ha - we have you now Bob [:D]

If you are simply fitting a boost enhancer (BE) then there is no real need to bypass the cycling valve (CV), that is only neccessary if you go down the chips route as well.

The accuboost is easier to adjust than the BE but at this stage you really need to just fit and forget, so I personally would go with the BE.

944Turbo (Tony) on this list had a used BE for sale last week
 
Welcome to the Boost Zone Bob,

I've got a spare boost guage, and connection kit, (unused) for which I paid £45.00 - if you want to make me an offer.
 
Hi Bob, I'm in the same position as you with a stock 220, I fitted a BE a couple of weeks ago and can thoroughly recommend it, well worth the money.

The only thing I would say is the factory setting as described in the instructions was too much and caused my overboost protection to cut in (brown trouser moment), so take it easy at first and adjust it slowly until you are confident that it's correct.


To the other Boost experts :) I also need to buy & fit a proper boost guage so any recommendations as to which one to go for? and how much to pay?

Thanks, Tim.
 
I used an Autometer one as I could get a matching Air fuel ratio gauge (which you might decide you need later [:D] ), they are available in a wide range of styles from hereVWspeedshop
Tony
 
I have an (as yet unfitted) VDO one which has white light, black dial, white numerals and a red needle - in other words it looks stock. It cost around £30 from a stall at the Autosport show 2 years ago.
 
where do you guys usually mount them?

I have an MP3 controller below the stereo which is where I've seen other people mount them so that would be a reall hassle for me.

Cheers, Tim.
 
I'm thinking mine will end up in the glove box TBH, along with an AFR gauge and maybe an EGT gauge.

I might fit it in on its own in an A-pillar pod, but I'm not all that keen on them and more than one gauge on the A-pillar is a definite no-no IMO.
 
I disagree with Fen, they give important info so require a quick glance often IMHO, usually when travelling quickly[;)]

Ki187496930.jpg
 
I think the boost gauge is important to have in good view, but the A/F is really not that important. Unless its a wide band one. I really cant see the point, i fitted it and just cant trust it, will have to get on a dyno and get the A/F checked. I do fancy the wide band one but they satrt at about £300 and climb up to £1000. So will give it a miss right now!!
 
Maybe but I would be wary if it suddenly started showing a different set of values say at full throttle it moved from rich (green) to orange (or even a different section of rich). The swinging back and forth at other throttle openings also tend to be within a range, if this moved either up or down the scale it might be an early warning of a problem.
Tony
 
After much pondering I have now relaocated my boost guage from under the radio, where you can't realy see it when full boost is happening, to the door pillar.

Whilst I had considered a pillar mount shroud affair I ultimately oppted fo an off the shelf pod with a bespoke bracket. Initial road tests have shown the pod to be nice and stable and idealy located to view whist exciting things happen. I didn't realise how much the boost bobs up and down. [;)]

boostg1.jpg

boostg2.jpg
 
I quite like that - enough that I think my boost gauge can go on the pillar. Only one gauge there for me though, and I'm keeping most of my cubby under the radio so I still have a problem with any extras.
 
Only one gauge there for me though, and I'm keeping most of my cubby under the radio

I agree that one is enough. Any more and (IMHO) the guages start to get very close to your face and necessitate considerable changes in focal length to view. With one guage it is, pretty much, in the same plane as the instrument cluster.

After some months without my cubby box it is great to have it back again. You don't appreciate how much use it gets until it isn't there.

Assuming you could get a 968 cubby box (I have had one on order for six months so far) the 968 clock hole would be a great place for a AF guage as you could still pick up the colour changes in your periferal vision. Not a new thought, I think Tony made that point previously.
 
I hadn't thought of the technical reason for not having a stack of gauges on the pillar - I just think it looks a bit 'rice' personally.

I think I may go for some sort of linear AFR gauge where the clock isn't in my Turbo (but not the Rennbay one which looks cheap to me). Perhaps like the one Danno fitted in an article on his 951RacerX website.
 

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