Or, at least annually for those who don't drive their cars enough....[8|] Believe it or not plenty of people think that a 12K service means doing nothing for 6 years!
]). My car has done over 185k hard miles and the oil pressure never drops below 3.5 bar even on a hot trackday at tickover, on the road its rare to see it go below 4bar. Mobil1 or Silkolene ProS/R 10/40 or 15/50W (if you live in the south), TonyI used to use 10w40 semi synthetic in mine until the oil pressure dropped off from heat at a trackday. It came back up again to normal after I'd let the car cool for a while but I tried fully synthetic instead & haven't had the problem repeat, plus the pressure is a litlle better when hot & it consumes a little less. Personally I'm sold, only put fully synthetic in mine now.ORIGINAL: 944Turbo Im going to disagree, I always use a full synthetic changed every 6k , (though some will get refreshed soooner about 5l in 6k miles [
Hi, As a driver of over a hundred track days and 3 years of racing (in just 944 Turbo's) - I would not use anything but a fully synthetic oil. Why? Because the molecular integrity and chemical properties of the oil will not diminish; even at very, very high temperatures; which is essential with a turbocharged engine where the turbo is spinning in excess of 100,000 rpm. You will retain consistent oil pressure and the oil will remain clean during prolonged hard use. This is based purely on my own experience. For the difference in cost between a semi synthetic and synthetic - I personally would not take the risk. A synthetic oil is infinitely better and you will save money in the long term with less wear and tear; reduced oil consumption, less emissions and possibly reduced running costs too (will vary from car to car depending on use). A standard 944 Turbo with factory air box will have little to no induction noise. If the 'J' pipe (to the turbo from the air box) has been changed, or an after market filter has been fitted behind the headlamp, you will get a lot of induction noise. Regards, Andrew
I'm going to disagree too! I had 10W/40 semi synth in mine but switched to Castrol Edge Sport (10W/60 and NO it is not thicker than 10W/40, before anyone jumps in with a comment...!) and the oil pressure when truly hot never drops below 3bar (at 135000 miles) at idle and the oil consumption has dropped too. I do not subscribe to the addage that just because 10/40 semi synth was 'fitted' when new, then despite the advance in oil technology since, you should still use the same old tech oil today. These are turbo engines with all that they imply (Don't imagine that modern turbo cars are specified with anything other than high grade fully synthetic oils) , hence I would always rather spend the extra money on something that will not break down under duress and hence give me more peace of mind. Still let it idle for a few seconds after a hard run, though [ORIGINAL: 944Turbo Im going to disagree, I always use a full synthetic changed every 6k , (though some will get refreshed soooner about 5l in 6k miles [
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Well not strictly true Nick, 10w60 is thicker than 10w40 at 100 degrees C, but is the same viscosity when cold. (by the way, thanks for the tip with Unit 11. I've just bought an A/C condenser off them. Best price around by a country mile!). First of all i'd only use fully synth for the reasons Andrew has eluded to. No point in not doing so. Secondly 5w40 will provide you with slightly better cold start protection than 10w40, but once upto temp they are both the same viscosity so no difference. The handbook states both grades are perfectly fine for our cars - as is 5w50 and 10w50 at our usual UK climate. I don't see any point in not using fully synth. It is a bit more expensive, but that's like saying Heinz beans are more expensive than supermarket own brand - they are, but not by that much so it really makes a difference. Use the best and it's one less thing to worry about. I also would only ever use an Ester based oil for improved cold start protection - afterall the first 10 to 15mins of any journey is where all engine wear occurs. For example Silkolene Pro S is an ester oil. I've also noticed that you can now buy fully synthetic Magnatec in certain grades. I got it in 0w30 for my Focus, though i've not seen it in 5w40 or any of the grades we might use yet. Also if you use your car 'normally' then a 12k/annual oil change is fine and in accordance with the manual. There was never a 6month 6k mile interval for the 944 turbo contrary to common opinion. The hand book recommends a 6k/6month oil change for the turbo, but there is no stamp for it in the maintenance schedule - only for the 12k annual oil change. I'd say for normal use 12k/12 months (especially if you are using fully synth) but if you take part in track days then of course it is prudent to change the oil more frequently. I think anything more than a 50 hot grade oil is overkill - unless you are a track warrior or race the car. 944's have oil thermostats and oil coolers and are pretty good at regulating oil temp so there is no need to go to a thicker oil grade in an attempt to manually regulate oil viscosity. Also varying your oil viscosity to regulate oil pressure is a case of the tail wagging the dog. If you are not achieving decent oil pressure with the oil recommended by Porsche then find out why. Using thicker oils to achieve oil pressure might be masking a more serious and potentially disastrous problem. My car with 120-odd K on the clock and 5w40 achieves 4.5 - 5 bar oil pressure when under throttle and around 3 - 3.5 bar at idle no probs. I think we worry far too much about oil viscosities. Just use what Porsche recommended and buy a decent quality fully synth and stop worrying about it! I'm not aware of anyone's engine blowing up because they used 5w40 instead of 10w40!ORIGINAL: appletonn I'm going to disagree too! I had 10W/40 semi synth in mine but switched to Castrol Edge Sport (10W/60 and NO it is not thicker than 10W/40, before anyone jumps in with a comment...!) [
Is the magnatec Ester or PAO ?, fully synthetic is a misleading marketing term isn't it, as for wear taking place for 10 to 15 minutes I was under the impression the first 10 to 15 seconds was more critical and providing you wait until the oil (not water)is up to working temp before using more than say 4k revs, you should be fine, but that is just my own opinion.
Factory fitted gauges induce more panic, needless worry and overspend curing problems that arent there. If the cars had nothing but a low pressure warning light then we`d all sleep better (as long as it stayed off) I read the posts re boost pressures and oil pressures that are all related to factory (relatively) inaccurate gauges that primarily serve as a guide as to past history as against what it reads now ie: is the status changing? For real time information install decent accurate gauges and senders however if we all did we`ll get different readings and THEN the panic and discussions will set in [
] My view? If the gauge is above 4 at full chat you`re ok. If its above 2 at idle you`re ok. If the gauge flickers then they all do that sir (or check your pulley bolt is tight) All of the aforementioned considered by listening to others whose cars are still going strong I believe. I do recommend fully synth though but Audi, Vauxhall etc sell good oil cheap, nothing wrong with it as its in their performance cars with 12,000 mile services []
Magnatec is Ester (hence clingy) and always used to be semi synthetic which is the misleading marketing term. Fully synth is just that - fully synth. Semi-synth is a mineral oil with a very small element of synthetic such that it can only be considered a mineral oil, this is why there is no point going for semi synth. You are right in that it is the oil that has to get upto temp before it starts working properly. It takes a good 10 - 15 mins for the oil to temperature soak and get upto operating temp. This is why I think that cold start protection performance of an oil is just as important as hot performance if not more which is why I always go for a low W ester based oil. The ester element protects in the first few seconds at start up where it takes that long for oil to be circulated around the engine, and the low W viscosity protects until the oil gets up into its operating range.
Magnatec is Ester (hence clingy) and always used to be semi synthetic which is the misleading marketing term. Fully synth is just that - fully synth. Semi-synth is a mineral oil with a very small element of synthetic such that it can only be considered a mineral oil, this is why there is no point going for semi synth. [/quote] Hmmmn, well I've no axe to grind on this but reading oilmans posts I get the impression magnatec is hydrocracked with a small % of ester for marketing purposes, it may be "fully synthetic" but not "true synthetic", It's all a bit beyond me anyway.
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