Oil Cooler nightmare help!

Tommys86 · Sep 14, 2015

Back from holiday and ready to take on the challenge of changing oil cooler seals... not quite, deep relaxation into complete nightmare.

I'm stuck and need some advice, got all the underside off, removed PS pump pivot points, oil filter off and struggling with the last bolt on the heat shield however that's not the biggest issue. Clarks garage is my guide but I fall to see how I can whip off an external cooler lines without A. a massive wrench not sure on size and B. Room to wave z wrench around. It's so tight I get on the 24mm oil sender unit and my wrench instantly fouls the ARB!

My plan is to skip these stages, 'go for glory' and remove 4 bolts for cooler and the also remove the oil cooler rad complete with lines but unsure how successful /possible this is? Obviously slacken manifold and remove oil pressure relief valve as per normal instructions but I simply can't get on the linew or oil sender unit in situ!

Or have I balls this up somewhere earlier on?

chrisg · Sep 14, 2015

Hi there,

Before I dive in and try and suggest some help, I need to understand exactly what cooler 'seals' you're trying to replace ?

The only seal in the whole system is where the cooler/filter assembly bolts onto the block, all the pipes and the joins into the cooler matrix itself are pressure seals (without olives) that don't need seals of any sort. I think the cooler/filter assembly on the block is the same on Turbo's/S2 but the pipes and the actual matrix are certainly different.

I haven't had the cooler pipes off my turbo for some time but ISTR that all the oil cooler pipe nuts at both ends of the pipes are either 27mm or 32mm - both of which spanners I have and you're more than welcome to borrow.

I do remember restriction/ access issues, I cut down a 24mm spanner specifically to remove and replace the oil sender unit - but certainly would advise dropping the ARB down if only on the drivers side to get extra access.

If memory serves me right the most difficult pipe to get off from the block end was the one with a small support strap held in place by a 10mm bolt. I did manage to get both my cooler pipes off, refurbed switched over to braided SS then fitted back on again fairly straightforwardly though

If I can help by phone 07540 193874

Chris

Tommys86 · Sep 14, 2015

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the reply and generous offer of tools - yeah you're pretty much bang on, block to filter housing seals and the sizes sound right - I've got the PS pump off all bar the thick hose and had looked at the ARB as a next move but it's been a while since I did one and questioned how many more components before I get to the one I want! Where abouts in Cambridgeshire are you?

Tom

chrisg · Sep 14, 2015

Right next to the A1/A14 junction at Brampton Hut !

Tommys86 · Sep 14, 2015

Cool well I've given up for this evening, got all the heat shield off and pressure relief valve now so in a good position for the final push. My mate is popping over with some tools tomorrow so might not need your kind offer. I'm only in P'boro so 25 mins away so if it does go pear shape I might call for advice!

Those heat shields are really tricky - tempted to take the exhaust off completely and wrap it? Do you think that would exempt the need for the shields?

robwright · Sep 14, 2015

IIRC Tommy mine were welded on tight. I removed the lot including the external cooler and disassembled off the car. Live in Stamford and work in Peterborough if you help and advice.

Tommys86 · Sep 15, 2015

Hi Rob thanks for the reply - that's great news so there is hope! Think mine are similar my neighbour lent me a wrench and probably could have bounced on these lines and they still wouldn't budge! Look rock solid.

Update - I have the cooler, filter housing and lines all off (in 1 piece) was a massive struggle however removing the front ARB and driver side front ARB strut (chassis not arm) gave me enough wiggle!

Tommys86 · Sep 16, 2015

Image of gap opened up cooler assembly and the sealing face, looks like it's been done previously with random sealant in 4 corners? I personally wouldn't do it like that - can't think a Porsche garage would either!

With the external coolet I assume I don't require as many seals that come in the aftermarket kit - so two oring's on the connecting pipe, integrated seal (carrier with 3 seals) and that's it? Do I need to shim or does that only apply for the in-cased cooler design? (Old 944 NA)

Cater_Racer · Sep 18, 2015

How's it going Tom?

Have you identified where the oil was getting into the coolant?

Tommys86 · Sep 21, 2015

I believe so! I've successfully re-assembled the car...and it runs

What I wanted to see was a clear rootcause to why I had oil in coolant, not sure if this story is IT but here's my theory which I'll float on here so please input /feedback if you think otherwise!

I found the connection pipe (block to filter housing) was stuck in the block. I had to use a set of grippers and shock spray to free it up. The 3-in-1 seal on the filter housing to block looks identical to my aftermarket kit (with 4 lumps of sealant in it), so I reckon it's been done before - very poorly. They didn't replace both seals on the connnection pipe (probably because it was stuck) and maybe found a broken o-ring on the filter housing side (black) so figured replace that and put it all back together.

Well the suspect o-ring pictured (black) is the housing side, very new, not very compressed o-ring. The block side showed a green old brittle o-ring - never been replaced? Not sure, I think they've used any old o-ring which when compared to my replacement kit looks too thin and oversized. This then has been slapped together not fixed the problem and then panic sold the car...(thinking it's something worse) or fixed it for a very short time and flogged the car anyway.

Either that or its not the problem and I'm running out of ideas - done one flush and looks much cleaner! But oil is a nightmare to clean out of a system so maybe need to do multiple flushes???

Head gasket check showed good compression on a 4 cylinders plus i got no smoke out the back?? Water pump is belt driven so can't see that being an issue other than an water leak which I haven't got. Then we start talking in the relms of a cracked head or damaged block? Which I struggle to consider the issue when you look at the images of this seal?

All thoughts welcomed!