Oil leak

[kitchens]

Sorry if this is a RMS issue I am about to buy a car and it is just back from the OPC with a report that the oil cooler to the transmition has a small leak is this the same thing, as you can see I am not a tec person

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

No it isn't, nor does it sound serious.

 

[kitchens]

Thanks Richard

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

Unusual for the RMS to give a puddle, as they usually start with a small drip. Is it in the centre of the car, or to one side? Each gradualtion of the level gauge is 0.25 litres, so to have gone from top to bottom on the gauge would give you a HUGE puddle. Does the engine run OK? Any smoke coming from the exhaust?

Oil pressure of 5 bar is normal on startup with a cold engine.

 

[ellism]

Puddle is lightly to the left as you look forward under the car. I've double checked on the oil level and you're right, I was exaggerating - probably less that a a quarter litre lost. Engine sounds fine and nothing nasty coming out of exhaust.

 

[NIL98]

Theres a largeish rubber concertina thingy that ventilates the crankcase on the left of centre. They often crack and leak oil. Also cause lumpy tickover as the crankcase works under pressure I believe. Easy fix on manuals, bit more expensive on tips as they have to remove some of the suspension to get at it I think.
Regards
Neil

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

Neil - That's the air/oil separator, and that's why I asked if the engine was running OK. It also usually causes a lot of white smoke from the exhaust - hence the smoke question.

Ellis - If the leak is off-centre it might be a leaking cam cover, but without getting under the car you can't tell. RMS leaks give a few drips dead centre, so you might be lucky. Fingers crossed. I would take it to an indy and get them to have a look. I don't know if it would be covered by warranty (if you have one) but I somehow doubt it.

 

[Rodney Naghar]

A leaking cam cover is covered under warranty, so is the RMS, so if you have a warranty you're in luck.

 

[ellism]

Just come back from JAZ in Wembley. Apparently it's coming from a big nut , one of two either side on bottom of engine. So nothing too serious apparently. Booked in for Thursday. Looks like it's not too serious.

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

I think you need to be very careful. I believe you have to get the cams in a certain position to take the load off the chain, or you risk jumping a tooth. I would have a word with an indy if I were you. It may cost a few quid more, but would avoid an expensive mistake.

 

[slick0007]

hi i had a similar problem and tried a tempory fix which has a sucsess for about five months now
i backed the tensioner off 2 or 3 turns cleaned the oil away and applied some ptfe tape around the threads and tightened it back up it may be worth a try

 

[jetbox]

Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

Richard, I am not aware of any independants around Aberdeen, only the OPC. I am happy to DIY if I know the correct procedure etc. Is there a clear description of this in the workshop manual?

Slick0007, This sounds like a possible solution thats worth a try.

thanks

 

[John Ware]

Richard's and my indy did that repair on my previous 996. There is a PH thread on it relatively recently somewhere. The fix involved taking out a spark plug (can't remember which one) and blowing the engine to TDC with compressed air. You can then remove the tensioner and replace the gasket without issue.... or something like that.

For Pete's sake don't take my word for it though!!!

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

ORIGINAL: jetbox
I am happy to DIY if I know the correct procedure etc. Is there a clear description of this in the workshop manual?

Well I've spent the last 40 minutes looking at the workshop manual, and it isn't crystal clear to me. What I would have liked to find is a nice clear DIY for changing the seal as a job in itself. No such luck. It is described in the section showing how to set up the camshaft timing for cylinders 4-6. This is my interpretation of the procedure:

Turn crankshaft clockwise until it reaches the No 1 cylinder top dead centre mark on the crankshaft pulley, and the groove in the end of the camshaft points towards the crankcase. (However, I can't work out if this is TDC on the firing stroke or exhaust stroke.) Unscrew the auxiliary chain tensioner, fit new sealing ring and torque to 80Nm.

The book time for the job is 36 minutes. Up to you if you want to give it a go yourself.

 

[jetbox]

thanks.

It sounds simple....

I will have a think about the best way forward.

I will let you know

thanks for taking the time to look in the manual

Jetbox

 

[minny]

Depending on where the leak it. Near the bell housing it could be the RMS or IMS. Or the Tiptronic sump gasket. Or the cam covers. These are the usual culprits. Take a photo and post it.

 

[Pieman7]

i had a slight leak from the small plug as in your pic. They can be changed but I would wait till the next oil change. The plugs are very thin I drilled a 2 mm hole in mine and put a 25 mm screw in it to leaver it out with. Throughly clean the sides of the hole cover both sides of hole and sides of new plug with locative red and tap in square to a depth as before