Oil leak
- Thread starter dugsud
- Start date
bones
New member
Most people don't have a problem when switching to fully synthetic oil some do but I'm surprised it happened on an SC , it's usually the earlier 911s that are problematic in this rea. Where exactly is it leaking from? If it's the rocker covers fitting the later Turbo ones will cure the problem.
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New member
When I bought my SC 4 years ago it had a totally leak free engine (apart from the gear box) and being new to the game I had it serviced at a very famous independent who did a great job but put in mobile 1 which I believe is a 0w-40 fully synthetic oil and it leaked liked a sieve around any rubber seal, especially the transfer tubes. I spoke to a few people and they all said that the SC engine was not designed for synthetic oils and they will leak. When I went back to a mineral oil it still leaked. Once the seal is "broken" I do not think is will stay dry.
I had the engine totally rebuilt about 15k ago and have changed the oil twice since the rebuild. The intail oil was a Shell semi synthetic 10w/40 and I then but in Castrol GTX 15w-40 (I think) I then spoke to oilman here on the forum and have now put in a fully synthetic oil a 5w-40. NO Leaks. The car runs really well on the oil and I have no loss at all.
My views are that lots of the synthetics on the market are to thin at the lower end ie 0w and it is this factor that causes the problems. Any oil must have the same properties as described in the cars hand book as the seals in the older designs cannot cope with the ultra thin oils that did not exist when our cars where designed. The synthetics have an advantage that they do not breakdown as quick as the old style oils and therefore give the same protection from when the are poured in to when they are drained out.
My drivers and maintenance manual says that the car can run on any oil grade from 5w-20 (-30c to -10c) up to 20w-5 (-10c to +40c) I went with a 5w as I use the car all year round and wanted good protection on cold start up in winter. I would stay with a fully synthetic but either a 5w-40 or a15w -50 as they are better oils.
Rats
I had the engine totally rebuilt about 15k ago and have changed the oil twice since the rebuild. The intail oil was a Shell semi synthetic 10w/40 and I then but in Castrol GTX 15w-40 (I think) I then spoke to oilman here on the forum and have now put in a fully synthetic oil a 5w-40. NO Leaks. The car runs really well on the oil and I have no loss at all.
My views are that lots of the synthetics on the market are to thin at the lower end ie 0w and it is this factor that causes the problems. Any oil must have the same properties as described in the cars hand book as the seals in the older designs cannot cope with the ultra thin oils that did not exist when our cars where designed. The synthetics have an advantage that they do not breakdown as quick as the old style oils and therefore give the same protection from when the are poured in to when they are drained out.
My drivers and maintenance manual says that the car can run on any oil grade from 5w-20 (-30c to -10c) up to 20w-5 (-10c to +40c) I went with a 5w as I use the car all year round and wanted good protection on cold start up in winter. I would stay with a fully synthetic but either a 5w-40 or a15w -50 as they are better oils.
Rats
Its a doddle Mike, you'll probably find the gaskets gone! Get the rear up on ramps, drain the oil (half of it will do so its below the level of the covers) and use a rachet with an extension to get all the bolts off.
If you go to Europarts and ask for the gasket replacement 'kit' you get the gaskets for both sides and new 'nylock' nuts, think it was about £25 when I did mine last winter, it's worth doing all four (bottom ones at least) as the gaskets will all be a similar condition unless some have been replaced before!
When you take some of the nuts off if its like mine a couple of the studs unscrew rather than the bolt, nothing to worry about, a bit of WD40 and I put mine in a vice to work the nut loose then screw the stud back into the engine block with a little thread lock.
If you feel up to it you might try checking your valve clearances whilst you have the rocker covers, not as daunting as you might think, I was a bit cautious at first but managed no problem, you find they can get a bit tappety and noisy over time, have a look at this link on pelican parts, very informative.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_valve_adjust/911_valve_adjust.htm
Good luck [
]
If you go to Europarts and ask for the gasket replacement 'kit' you get the gaskets for both sides and new 'nylock' nuts, think it was about £25 when I did mine last winter, it's worth doing all four (bottom ones at least) as the gaskets will all be a similar condition unless some have been replaced before!
When you take some of the nuts off if its like mine a couple of the studs unscrew rather than the bolt, nothing to worry about, a bit of WD40 and I put mine in a vice to work the nut loose then screw the stud back into the engine block with a little thread lock.
If you feel up to it you might try checking your valve clearances whilst you have the rocker covers, not as daunting as you might think, I was a bit cautious at first but managed no problem, you find they can get a bit tappety and noisy over time, have a look at this link on pelican parts, very informative.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_valve_adjust/911_valve_adjust.htm
Good luck [
]
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