Oil!!

[appletonn]

Just a quick pointer to the post here ( http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=387764 )

I've just ordered 8l of Castrol Edge Sport 10W/60 fully synthetic stuff (it's what I put in last time and I'm very happy with the effect it had on the hot oil pressure!) and it has cost me £68.80 with 10% PCGB discount and free carriage.

All ready for its oil change ...[]

 

[PJS917]

That's interesting. I use 10-60 in the 968 and had been using it in the S2 as well. Oil pressure always
good and very happy. I spoke to Opie and they said 10-60 is a bit thick for our oil pumps and may
not be doing them any favours. I now have 5-50 in the S2 and am equally happy with oil prssure even
at idle after a track session.

( I still plan to carry on using 10-60 in the 968 as it seems to suite it best.)

 

[stevespic]

I run 10-40 semi syn castrol mag in my s2 and touch wood have never had a problem... always shows good oil presure while running and on idle after track sessions in very hot weather...and it comes at a good price from my local asda walmart at around 5 per litre...the only thing i do tend to do is replace it when i get back from germany which is around three times a year... i think its the leaste i can do after a weekends worth of thrashing [] .

 

[zcacogp]

<Yawn> Oil debate again, chaps?

10W40, semi-synth, from Vauxhall Dealers, in mine. Why? I get a Traders Club Discount (which makes it seriously cheap), and it is high quality stuff. Oil pressure seems fine, and at that price (around £2/litre) I can afford to change it every 5,000 miles - which I do.

Using good oil and changing it frequently is more important in my book than using very good oil and changing it infrequently.


Oli.

 

[TTM]

I have been a die-hard Castrol RS 10W60 user but I will soon switch to Motul 300V 15W50 as it keeps its characteristics longer than the Castrol.

 

[sawood12]

A 60 grade oil is too thick according to the handbook unless you are in a warmer climate. The handbook specifies between 5w40 upto 14w50. I suppose if you could be bothered you'd swap between 5w40 in winter and 15w50 if we were to ever have a warm summer.

 

[stevespic]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

a warm summer.

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[Fen]

Totally off topic, but I just noticed:

TTM
titleAndStar(574,0,0,false,"","")Non Member

Posts: 574
Joined: 21/4/2004
From: Further south (though not quite as south as Fen)

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[appletonn]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

A 60 grade oil is too thick according to the handbook unless you are in a warmer climate. The handbook specifies between 5w40 upto 14w50. I suppose if you could be bothered you'd swap between 5w40 in winter and 15w50 if we were to ever have a warm summer.

I'd agree if the car was new, but at 136000 miles, I think it is just fine. Don't forget that the 60 bit only relates to the viscosity when truly hot, the 10W bit is the cold viscosity hence it is no thicker when cold than any other 10W oils - just doesn't get quite as thin as a 10W 40 oil, when hot.

Now please stop scaring me......[]

 

[appletonn]

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

<Yawn> Oil debate again, chaps?





Oli.

I wasn't actually trying to restart an oil debate, rather point people towards some reasonable deals on the Opie site....


Gets coat and buggers off.....[]

 

[zcacogp]

Nick,

OK ... apologies. (Don'cha just hate it when a thread doesn't go the way you intended it to!)

Thanks for the heads-up on the good oil deal then.


Oli.

 

[TTM]

ORIGINAL: appletonn
Now please stop scaring me......[]

There is some Edge Sport 10W60 in my turbo right now and yes it works very well, so no worries. Just make sure you let it gently warm up.

 

[Hilux]

<Yawn> Oil debate again, chaps?

Using good oil and changing it frequently is more important in my book than using very good oil and changing it infrequently.

Oli.

Wot he said []

Audi, BMW, GM, Ford oil will all be fine. Look at the engines they produce that run reliably with high power and turbos etc etc and remember the main purpose of oil apart from lubrication is to remove heat from components not water cooled so change it frequently.

I use a Promax recommended oil as it is reckoned by competitive road and track users that their (considerably enhanced) engines run noticeably lower oil temps ie: it is efficient at transporting and giving up heat - important with a turbo.

 

[appletonn]

ORIGINAL: TTM

ORIGINAL: appletonn
Now please stop scaring me......[]

There is some Edge Sport 10W60 in my turbo right now and yes it works very well, so no worries. Just make sure you let it gently warm up.

It is the 10W bit of the classification that depicts the viscosity when cold, so the 60 bit does not reflect the fact that this is some sludgy porridge of an oil when cold (it definitely isn't!), rather than it retains more of its cold viscosity when hot. It should fly round the engine from cold, much like any other 10W synthentic oil you could mention.

Right, I'm off before someone else accuses me of restarting the oil debate...

D'you know, try and do someone a good turn and all you get is flack.....[8|]

Adopts Oli's grumpy demeanor and sods off.......

[]

 

[sawood12]

Nick, you're right in your interpretation of the oil viscosities however the 60 bit is when the oil is at 100 degs C so in reality is a bit warmer in the engine.

However not wanting to scare you I come from the school that you want as thin an oil as you think you can get away with and I don't see how your oil needs to get thicker as the engine clocks up milage. The oil lubricates bearings and the bearing clearances don't change with age - unless you have a problem with your bearings. I've never seen a car handbook for any make or model of car (or any other machine for that matter) that specifies a change of oil grade as the cars milage gets higher and higher.

I'm not sure what the best grade of oil is but i've got 5w40 according to the handbook and I have no oil pressure, leaking or other problems, i've queried the OPC and specialists and the likes of Opie oils and they all say that either a 5w40 or 10w40 is what they usually use. I have no idea if any other grade of oil would be better or worse but you will cause damage to your engine by choosing an oil that is too thick just as you will an oil that is too thin so we have no choice but to stick with the original recommendations for our cars.

For racing and heavy track use where oil temps are higher a 40 or 50 grade will thin down too much then you need to start looking to higher grades so you achieve a viscosity roughly equivalent to a 40 or 50 grade at the elevated temps and maintain protection.

 

[TTM]

Manufacturers' recommendations are for engines that are within new specs (tolerance) and there are too many variables coming into play on an aging engine (use/abuse, regular/irregular maintenance) to make oil recommendations that will suit every engine and how it is used.
All this echoes statements one can often read in workshop manuals such as "This part will last the whole life of the car" - how much of a nonesense is that ?

 

[appletonn]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

Nick, you're right in your interpretation of the oil viscosities however the 60 bit is when the oil is at 100 degs C so in reality is a bit warmer in the engine.

However not wanting to scare you I come from the school that you want as thin an oil as you think you can get away with and I don't see how your oil needs to get thicker as the engine clocks up milage. The oil lubricates bearings and the bearing clearances don't change with age - unless you have a problem with your bearings. I've never seen a car handbook for any make or model of car (or any other machine for that matter) that specifies a change of oil grade as the cars milage gets higher and higher.

I'm not sure what the best grade of oil is but i've got 5w40 according to the handbook and I have no oil pressure, leaking or other problems, i've queried the OPC and specialists and the likes of Opie oils and they all say that either a 5w40 or 10w40 is what they usually use. I have no idea if any other grade of oil would be better or worse but you will cause damage to your engine by choosing an oil that is too thick just as you will an oil that is too thin so we have no choice but to stick with the original recommendations for our cars.

For racing and heavy track use where oil temps are higher a 40 or 50 grade will thin down too much then you need to start looking to higher grades so you achieve a viscosity roughly equivalent to a 40 or 50 grade at the elevated temps and maintain protection.

Absolutely, so the 10W bit means it is nice and thin when cold to ensure rapid circulation and hence cold start protection (as for most other 10W oils), but with the hotter temps generated on turbo cars, I wanted something that would not thin too much from the 10W viscosity once the engine got properly hot (I intended to track the car...).

With mileage comes wear and increased tolerances (to a greater or lesser extent) and at 135,000 miles, I have seen an improved (very) hot oil pressure with the 60 oil over the 10W/40 stuff that was in it before.

My local specialist does recommend different oils depending on the age/mileage of an engine. Bearings do wear and clearances do increase as mechanical bits wear, however slightly, and that can mean increase oil consumption and lower oil pressures if the oil is too thin

It's all down to personal choice, I guess[]

Now, I wish I'd never started this...[8|]