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Old verse new water pump

Mikie_gb

PCGB Member
Member
Does anyone have suggestions as to why my 1988 944S has the old style waterpump. My research shows these were not used after 1986, so I am not sure how it found its way onto this engine. The engine has only done 80k so it is unlikely to have run through a pump and now need another replacement already. I don't have the chassis/ engine number to check the MY, but they were only constructed in 1987 an 1988.

And suggestions on what type of branch to thrash a car to death with, John Cleese style... I am favouring oak at the minute.... lots of leaves with an acorn and maybe a squirell still attached (if it signs a disclaimer re personal injury)
 
Porsche sometimes use what they have lying around rather than new stuff. Also some documentation isn't foolproof.
 
And suggestions on what type of branch to thrash a car to death with, John Cleese style... I am favouring oak at the minute.... lots of leaves with an acorn and maybe a squirell still attached (if it signs a disclaimer re personal injury)

Oak is a very strong timber but may be a bit stiff and brittle for what you have in mind. The sap is also quite acidic (hence you should always use brass screws and fittings with oak) and may turn your hands black as well as accelerating rusting if you should break the paintwork. The weight of oak can also be detrimental in fine handling situations.

One choice would be willow which would give far more whip and will also reduce the jarring of your wrist at the point of impact. That said, some find willow a little too whippy to achieve a satisfactory impact in which case I would go for birch or perhaps ash. Selection is important in the case of the latter to ensure there are no shakes, or splits, which could lead to premature failure.

Beech, on the other hand, remains a consistant hard hitter and is much favoured for mallets. It's close and even grain structure ensure little deformation in the impact tool which is further enhanced by its even weight and balance. It doesn't give as much as ash however, so should be used with care to avoid kick back injuries.

Fruit woods, such as apple and pear, tend to be a bit sappy and will reduce your grip levels. Also, with so much cross breeding, they can be inconsistant and thus unpredictable.

Softwoods generally should be avoided as they have insufficient weight and can suffer from catastrophic failure through dead knots.

Tropical hardwoods remain some of the worst available for car thrashing and I would always opt for a european decidious timber in such situations.
 
10/10 John, Your woodwork teacher must be proud of you

From what I understand he is still with us. Whilst Mad Jock Wilson may have provided a reasonable foundation I think that being in joinery for 25 years might have some bearing on my understanding [;)]
 
Actually, it turns out that the pump on the car and the replacement pump were both the new type. But at the same time were significantly different. ie one needed a blanking plate the other not. And a few other differences. Ho hum.

So. No thrashing for the recalcitrant little lump of pig iron then. Yet. However, history dictates that Apollo 13 WILL require more fanning with wedges of cash in the near future. At which point I shall more than likely have my pick of Birnham Wood (Dunkeld) from the hard shoulder at 11pm at night in the rain. If some one could point me in the direction of a tree spotters guide... I have a small saw and torch in the glove compartment at the ready
 
The replacement is already in the car so I might not be able to check. The old one is across town in the boot of the car to be returned. I can check the numbers but it may only be next week (or much much later if the cylinder head gasket has gone) when I get the car back.
 
ORIGINAL: Mikie_gb
The replacement is already in the car so I might not be able to check.

The marking can be seen from the pump even when it's mounted on the car (except if it's a turbo, of course [8D]).
It is on the upper part of the pump, just above the upper ending part of the belts plastic casing.
Can't come up with a better picture than this one, sorry ...

3F59FF64C481410AA082191CFF6777A5.jpg
 
Bit late in the reply, but I have just gotten Apollo 13 back (woo hoo) from being lavished with cash and the serial number from the old pump is 944.106 124.R1.

I will have a look at the rebuilt one on the car over the weekend, when I am replacing all the water hoses, oil pressure sender, brake hoses, fan relay, temp sensor, idle control valve, windscreen washer nozzles, gearbox oil (the list goes on some). Why, you may ask am I doing this my self after the car being in the shop?.... well... the shop taking three months to do an MOT, oil cooler seals, and water pump caused me to have a patience failure and a polite rant. So the car was returned up and running but with only the vitals done and a boot full of spares supplied by me in the first place. Grrr.
 
Actually guy's wood is really to valuable to be used as a tool of torture nowadays, and besides your so 19th century, the teachers of today are far more up beat and materials have changed to match the times. So i would recommend a composite material, aluminium for the shaft, wit a moulded rubber grip, and to top the device a diamond tipped carbon fibre head, this should be light weight and durable, with the added touch of bling.
This is the specification that a mordern technology teacher would advise on getting, how do i know, for i am that tech teacher.[;)]

Marc
 
I am also HOD DT (Marc understands), but never went to mordern [;)]

Shoreditch. Egham man myself.

Mike

 
Does the "new type" water pumper has a "2.5" marking on it or a "2.7"

The replacement pump has 2.5 on it.


Right now I am black from head to foot, after dimantling half the engine, only to discover that the Idle contol valve that has been posted up is for a 930 not my 944.

And I agree on the wood option being 19th century. I am now thinking less of flogging the car, and more of flogging purveyors of very expensive (incorrect) Porsche parts. I shall set about planning a nice 'modern branch' of hand laid carbon fibre, with an integrated polymer damped handle and tooled berilium grip. I will then set off to England on foot ( my daily drive packed up while I was moving it to gain access to Apollo 13) working up a good little rage, and deliver what is hoped to be a rather world class whipping by either 19th 20th or 21st century standards.

I expect the envirnomentalists among you will be up in arms at the non renewable resource and several million year half life of the 'modern branch', but rest assured only the most basic carbon molicules will remain once said whipping has ended.

I shall first visit the previous owner and try it out on him. What posesses people to Varnish engines is beyond me. After discovering the part was wrong I set about cleaning the engine with a tooth brush and Carb cleaner (with Xylene.... eek) as nothing else can get it off (not tried benzine or carbon tetra chloride). After two years the varnish has turned black. Engine is starting to look great BTW or I am halucinating from the fumes.Xylene side effects
 

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