petrol additives/performance
- Thread starter Chappelle
- Start date
Hi there
Just a quick question, is there any point of adding an additive to the petrol to increase performance (if any) to a 981? will it make any difference? or any harm to the engine? if it's worth doing it, any particular additive?
Thank you
Andres
Just a quick question, is there any point of adding an additive to the petrol to increase performance (if any) to a 981? will it make any difference? or any harm to the engine? if it's worth doing it, any particular additive?
Thank you
Andres
Ok thank you for the advice
Don't think you would notice any difference in performance from an addictive as been said use super unleaded petrol .
Some people use an additive in the tank for a cleansing effect of the system or to lower emissions for MOTs
Some people use an additive in the tank for a cleansing effect of the system or to lower emissions for MOTs
kitchens
PCGB Member
On a petrol ? SPYDER getting Sorned at the end of this month ,but will keep the 981 on for a couple of months .Do you advice filling the tank up given that is 64x 1.89 =£120 [:'(] or just leave with minimum/half amount, car will be in a dry garage and covered and tyre pressures increased to save flat spotting.
AndrewCS
Active member
All storage information that I have noted says to fill the tank, to avoid - reduce the affects of air - vapour condensation ... corrosion I presume
Quite when - how you`d notice the effects of this condensation is ?
The above did not account for E10 fuel which has a greater affinity for attracting water from an atmosphere. There are additives available for treating E10 in stored equipment
Quite when - how you`d notice the effects of this condensation is ?
The above did not account for E10 fuel which has a greater affinity for attracting water from an atmosphere. There are additives available for treating E10 in stored equipment
There is a product called Sta-bil which you can add to the fuel and is used when you winterise boats. Personally I think tank empty would be best as the shelf life of modern fuel is a lot less.
kitchens
PCGB Member
Thanks for the recommend Lawrie ... Just read instruction and it says keep your tank 95% full to avoid condensation take it it keeps fuel fresh rather than spoiling over a period ..looking at just adding a few ounces into my 1/4 fill tank to prevent water build up..to be fair never had a issue in the past ,then again never paid £1.89+ for 99/super octane .
kitchens said:
As the key is "volume" perhaps consider filling with the cheapest 95 you can find (supermarket brand) and siphon it in spring replacing with "normal 99/super", use the 95 in mowers / garden equipment ??
Although with current rate of inflation ... perhaps fill with the £1.89+ super you can get and then siphon that in spring and sell for £5 a liter [
]Thank you Cliff
If I may add a few thoughts:
1
I have an old 911 with a 3.2 flat 6 in it, and for the last 31 years of running it the 6 month indoor winter lay-up the tank has been as full as it is after the last run of the late Sept/October. This car runs on 99 octane Shell, 97 octane decades ago, never ever had a spring time starting issue. The tank was made in 1973 like the car, 50 years old next year.
2
I have a 987.2 Boxster, lives outside all year. Had this car for 6 years.
Never bother with the full tank stuff, all ok. It runs on E10 that is laced with Ethanol, fuel level wherever it may be.
If you wish you could brim the Boxster tank with ESSO Synergy 99 octane that is ethanol free, probably as great a fuel system protection you can get.
I think battery protection is a bigger issue over the winter.
Anyway, just my experiences on storage.
As to using additives for daily running, doubt it will make any noticeable difference, just adds to running costs?
I used it in my hot Impreza years ago, 360 bhp from 2000cc. The Impreza was mapped to an inch of it's life to get 360 bhp and the mapper insisted I used Shell 97 octane with an additive to ensure the octane was indeed 97/98. He insisted the additive would give no more, but tended to stabilize the fuel.
He insisted on Shell 97 as it was the most consistent fuel he knew.
The mapper was Andy Forrest, the car was used on the road and fully extended in hillclimbs for 5 years.
1
I have an old 911 with a 3.2 flat 6 in it, and for the last 31 years of running it the 6 month indoor winter lay-up the tank has been as full as it is after the last run of the late Sept/October. This car runs on 99 octane Shell, 97 octane decades ago, never ever had a spring time starting issue. The tank was made in 1973 like the car, 50 years old next year.
2
I have a 987.2 Boxster, lives outside all year. Had this car for 6 years.
Never bother with the full tank stuff, all ok. It runs on E10 that is laced with Ethanol, fuel level wherever it may be.
If you wish you could brim the Boxster tank with ESSO Synergy 99 octane that is ethanol free, probably as great a fuel system protection you can get.
I think battery protection is a bigger issue over the winter.
Anyway, just my experiences on storage.
As to using additives for daily running, doubt it will make any noticeable difference, just adds to running costs?
I used it in my hot Impreza years ago, 360 bhp from 2000cc. The Impreza was mapped to an inch of it's life to get 360 bhp and the mapper insisted I used Shell 97 octane with an additive to ensure the octane was indeed 97/98. He insisted the additive would give no more, but tended to stabilize the fuel.
He insisted on Shell 97 as it was the most consistent fuel he knew.
The mapper was Andy Forrest, the car was used on the road and fully extended in hillclimbs for 5 years.
skoosh1970
Member
...Andy Forrest, what a man he is... nothing he doesn't know about the ej20 subaru engine....still regret selling mine 10 years on....!!!
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