Porsche 987 camshaft locking tool

[Camscott98]

Hello, I am changing out a timing chain tensioner on my 987s 3 chain and I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions for the camshaft locking tool needed to lock the cams I have previously made a 5 chain tool with dimensions from somewhere else on the internet but have never come across the dimensions for the 3 chain engines, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[pfowler1]

Have you tried YouTube, I’m sure I’ve seen something on there.
I had mine changed at my local OPC but I did speak to a reputable local garage and they said they’d done it before without locking the cams. I was too frightened to try that.
I believe you have to drain the oil first.

 

[Camscott98]

Thanks for the reply, I have ordered a tool and hopefully I will get to post the dimensions for others in the future who wish to make the tool. I think much like yourself I'd rather lock the cams just to be safe would turn into a bigger job if it went wrong. I think the tool is supposed to arrive tomorrow!

thank you

 

[Camscott98]

Update on this:

I did the job tonight after work, hour or so work could be done quicker likely but here's how it went;

Ordered a crush washer and new seal for the tensioner from my local Porsche garage and also two green camshaft end caps.


Ordered a camshaft holding tool from ebay £50 i will try and get the dimensions one night and post for anyone's reference. Also I would suggest it's essential to buy this or make this tool for the job as I am sure my timing would've jumped if I chose to not use the tool and remove the tensioner like has been mentioned on other forums.

Stripped out behind seats and turned engine to TDC (24mm spanner from memory)

I took out the camshaft plugs by pushing a screwdriver through them and prying out (the lower one was harder to do this with)


I then un-bolted what I think must be an earth strap (hard to see). For this you will need a torx socket can't remember the size but If you are planning on doing this job and don't have this tool available then ebay is your Place <£10 for a rail of US pro.


Now, insert a pin or possibly Allan key behind the pully with the 24mm bolt. You will find the slot is teardrop shaped and you will find TDC at about 11o'clock.



Now insert your camshaft tool making Sure the tool fits into the grooves of the camshaft. Lock this in place with the bolt that was holding on the assumed earth strap - I had an issue here where I had to modify the tool slightly as I think it wasn't made to exactly the correct specification. As long as the tool is in Tight the job can be done without the bolt through - although maybe get someone to hold the tool so that it doesn't jump out.



Next undo the chain tensioner 32mm from memory. At this point you will hear it release the tension on the chain. Oil will now start to come out so remember a drip tray.


Get your new washer and seal put them on the chain tensioner and put the tensioner back up in place and tighten (You have to push up into place quite hard here to take the tension up on the chain). I chose to do this as fast as possible to lose the least amount of oil however draining all the oil is the alternative.

Removed all timing tools once tensioner is tightened.

Re-bolt up the assumed earth strap

Insert new plugs - some people say use a sealer round others say don't bother them I chose not to.

Check oil and start up.

Job cost me £75 including the tool so if you can make your own then the job can be done for £25

I only replaced my washer and seal as there was no start up rattle - a sign the tensioner itself is away.

Hopefully this helps someone save some money!

 

[pfowler1]

Great post, thanks for all the detail. Which of the three tensioners did you replace? How much oil came out and was it very tight?
Has it cured the problem that you had?
cheers.

 

[Camscott98]

Hi,

I replaced the crush washer and seal on the tensioner on cylinders 1-3 so the tensioner that faces the ground.


I never replaced the tensioner itself.

The reason I replaced was due to an oil leak in the area after a recent oil change (which is common).


The leak is now fixed and the crush washer was to blame, it looked rather sorry and I expect that it hasn't ever been replaced since it left the factory in 2006!

The tensioner wasn't that difficult to budge a 1/2 drive ratchet did the job easily. Lost just over a litre of oil. which I caught in a drip tray then put back in as the oil was changed recently. Then topped up as required.


Thanks