Power Steering Belt Tension
- Thread starter 944Fripp
- Start date
Hi Tom,
As far as I remember it's pretty simple job, but difficult to describe! Sitting below the pump and connected to the pulley a threaded arm goes into a cylinder which has a spanner fitting at the end; it's a case of rotating the cylinder to draw the arm in. I'm pretty sure that it's double ended and both arms are drawn in at the same time?
As you can see from my explanation I'm no expert but I managed to get the pump off and back on again with any great difficulty, so I'm sure you'll be fine. I've got some pictures at home to illustrate what I mean but I'm sure when you get under there you'll see it's pretty straight forward.
Cheers,
Neil
As far as I remember it's pretty simple job, but difficult to describe! Sitting below the pump and connected to the pulley a threaded arm goes into a cylinder which has a spanner fitting at the end; it's a case of rotating the cylinder to draw the arm in. I'm pretty sure that it's double ended and both arms are drawn in at the same time?
As you can see from my explanation I'm no expert but I managed to get the pump off and back on again with any great difficulty, so I'm sure you'll be fine. I've got some pictures at home to illustrate what I mean but I'm sure when you get under there you'll see it's pretty straight forward.
Cheers,
Neil
chrisg
Member
tom
the tensioner system for the PAS pump is a double threaded rod with locking nuts at either end. One thread is a reverse threas. Undo both the lock nuts then wind the central 'barrel' in one direction - you'll then see the belt tighten or loosen depending on the direction, simply adjust as necessary then do up yhe locknuts.
chris
the tensioner system for the PAS pump is a double threaded rod with locking nuts at either end. One thread is a reverse threas. Undo both the lock nuts then wind the central 'barrel' in one direction - you'll then see the belt tighten or loosen depending on the direction, simply adjust as necessary then do up yhe locknuts.
chris
A couple of things to add...
1) one end of the arm is a left hand thread... I know it, and have done this job many, many times, and still at some point I try and turn it the wrong way.
2) I suspect the "book" procedure will suggest slackening the pivot bolt for the pump, as well as the two nuts/bolts at the end of the tensioning arm before trying to adjust the tension, then re-tighten afterwards.
Regards,
Tref.
1) one end of the arm is a left hand thread... I know it, and have done this job many, many times, and still at some point I try and turn it the wrong way.
2) I suspect the "book" procedure will suggest slackening the pivot bolt for the pump, as well as the two nuts/bolts at the end of the tensioning arm before trying to adjust the tension, then re-tighten afterwards.
Regards,
Tref.
Diver944
Active member
Have you tried changing the fluid yet? A regular change is not on any service schedule so it often goes many decades before being refreshed.
Jack the front up, then simply undo the hose from the reservoir at the pump end to drain, then refill and work the steering wheel back and forth to push out any air bubbles
Jack the front up, then simply undo the hose from the reservoir at the pump end to drain, then refill and work the steering wheel back and forth to push out any air bubbles
Jonny944CS
New member
I'd second that. Low fluid and/or air in the system will make it squeal like a pig.
No I haven't done this yet.... you sound like a disappointed father! [
]I'm preparing for a Saturday of fiddling with the car! The first job is changing the fluid even though I don't really see this working as the fluid in there is less than 6 months old. Appreciate it'll only do good though and may eliminate some air from the system.
Second option would be to tighten up the belt a little as it does seem pretty slack.
Also I'm pulling off the rattling rear brake dust plate and if I have time I'm taking the head lining out of the back interior roof to re-trim it a little. Shame I've already got plans on Sunday as there's plenty more that I want to get done!
Cheers Dad!
I was hoping you wouldn't say that though as it means I'm pinning all my hopes on the belt tension. [&:] Will have a poke around and see what I can see under there, hopefully it'll be something obvious, if not I'll have to live with it like everybody else with 944's!
I was hoping you wouldn't say that though as it means I'm pinning all my hopes on the belt tension. [&:] Will have a poke around and see what I can see under there, hopefully it'll be something obvious, if not I'll have to live with it like everybody else with 944's!
As has been said, the groaning is usually caused by air that has been drawn in so I would check & tighten all the clamps on the hoses and look for any fluid leaks then top the fluid up and bleed it by turning the wheels lock to lock a few times with the engine running and the reservoir cap off.
Mine only groans when it is really cold until the car has started moving. I found that the solution is keep the car in the garage so it doesn't get cold but I haven't applied a spanner or anything to it yet.
Just realised that I am still using my wife's account as mine is knackered and awaiting fixing. I usually log on as Supersport from R7.
Just realised that I am still using my wife's account as mine is knackered and awaiting fixing. I usually log on as Supersport from R7.
pauljmcnulty
Active member
What's the problem, Mark? Looks ok at the admin end. [8|]
I changed my email address and the confirmation email took about an hour or so to come through so I couldn't log in, all ok now though. I did drop Anthony an email but I don't know if he poked it into life or it just got stuck in the ether.
Ok, so, should anyone else stumble on this post wanting to do the same thing, this is waht you're looking for:
You'll need to take the undertray off first to get access. Undo the nuts at either end and turn the centre cylinder to increase or decrease the tension on the belt. You can see it all working when you're doing it. Take a tip from me though, the nuts are bloomin tight so put your head out of harms way (I ended up punching myself in the face twice as the bolts freed up!) or wear protective clothing! You have been warned! []
I also topped up and bled the system (happy now Dad?!). The result is that the groaning deffinately reduced (it is deffinately still there though!) but the steering feels much more positive, well worth doing!
However, whilst I was under there I spotted this:
The hose in the centre of the image comes out of the bottom of the pump (from an elbow joint). The hose end seems to move fairly easily on the elbow joint and I wondered if this should have a jubilee clip on it? The thought being that the lose joint, although no leaks are present may be drawing air in and making the system groan.
What do you reckon?!
You'll need to take the undertray off first to get access. Undo the nuts at either end and turn the centre cylinder to increase or decrease the tension on the belt. You can see it all working when you're doing it. Take a tip from me though, the nuts are bloomin tight so put your head out of harms way (I ended up punching myself in the face twice as the bolts freed up!) or wear protective clothing! You have been warned! [
]I also topped up and bled the system (happy now Dad?!). The result is that the groaning deffinately reduced (it is deffinately still there though!) but the steering feels much more positive, well worth doing!
However, whilst I was under there I spotted this:
The hose in the centre of the image comes out of the bottom of the pump (from an elbow joint). The hose end seems to move fairly easily on the elbow joint and I wondered if this should have a jubilee clip on it? The thought being that the lose joint, although no leaks are present may be drawing air in and making the system groan.
What do you reckon?!
chrisg
Member
Tom
I'm not sure what you mean by movement, trust me though if there was a leak in the pipe or union connecting it to the PAS pump you'd know about it ! - I don't know what pressure the system runs at ( ~ ? 10bar ?)
If you're seriously concerned about it, one option is to remove the pipe completely and take it to your local Pirtek or Hydraulic hose manufacturer - they can remanufacture the pipe using the unions at each end.
Yours
Chris
I'm not sure what you mean by movement, trust me though if there was a leak in the pipe or union connecting it to the PAS pump you'd know about it ! - I don't know what pressure the system runs at ( ~ ? 10bar ?)
If you're seriously concerned about it, one option is to remove the pipe completely and take it to your local Pirtek or Hydraulic hose manufacturer - they can remanufacture the pipe using the unions at each end.
Yours
Chris
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