Power steering

[devans]

hi guys, not been on for a while. However, can anyone help. Can I use halfords chf11s to top up my power steering. It's green but does not have the word pen tossing on it, thanks

 

[devans]

Sorry pentosin

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

That's auto-correct for you! The Halfords CHF should be fine. It says it is for use where CHF 11S is specified. You can get Pentosin CHF 11S on eBay for the same price though.

 

[devans]

Just put some fluid in. The result is a huge pool of fluid on the floor at the front of the car, so obviously has a leak somewhere. could someone help with the following;

1. Are leaks with the power steering rack fixable

2. How easy is the power steering rack to remove and fit back.

3. Any ideas on cost of a new/ replacement rack

4. Best place to buy one

many thanks

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

The racks don't often leak. It is usually the ferrules on the end of the hoses (where they go into the rack) that corrode, causing a leak. The hoses are a bit of a pain to change, and people often effect a repair with Jubilee clips. Not my idea of a permanent fix, but it might get you out of trouble.

 

[devans]

Hi again, just took plastic undertrays off and discovered that two lines of small bore steel tubing have corroded and split on the power steering rack. It is not the large rubber hoses. They have corroded on the drivers side. They seem to come off the main fitting and then run to the passengers side. Looks impossible to get to them. My questions are,

1. Does the rack have to come our to effect a repair.

2. Can the new small bore pipes be purchased and fitted to avoid paying for a new rack.

Doesnt look like I'm going to be able to tackle this job as access is nigh on impossible

thanks

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

That's unusual. The Porsche PET doesn't list the small bore pipes, so I think you would have to take the rack off and get the tubes made up. I expect a rack refurbisher would be able to do this. A new rack from Mr P is over £2200, by the way....

 

[devans]

Just rung Porsche specialists and they say the two lengths of steel pipe are not sold separately so a new or refurbished rack will be required, which seems ridiculous as they are screwed in place. Why would I want a new or refurbished rack when it is the pipe that is the problem. Anyway, have seen some second hand racks for sale on eBay so could purchase one and just replace the two pipes.

does anyone have the worksheet on how to remove the steering rack please. I'm assuming that somewhere along the line the larger pipes run from the front of the car to the engine compartment. I'm stuck on where to disconnect this run also. Hoping the worksheet will give me all the info I need.

HELP please!

 

[devans]

Hi Richard. They connect directly to the rack so they are part of the rack itself apparently. Do you have a worksheet for removal of the rack please

 

[kasspa]

Out of curiosity, are the small bore steel pipes similar to brake pipes?

These can be 'made up' so why can't the same be done for what you need?

I had an advisory several years ago that the 'crimps' on my power steering hoses were 'corroded' but hoses were not swollen or leaking.....

Richard advised me that hoses were between £110 -£170 + 2-3 hours labour.....

Jubilee clips were placed over crimps & are still doing there job!!

 

[devans]

yes the small pipes are like brake pipes. they are integral with the power steering rack. its not worth getting made up as you can get a second hand rack for £60 on ebay. I intend not using the second hand rack. just taking off the two pipes. however, what I am looking for is thw instructions on how to remove the rack

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

Drop me a PM with your email address, and I'll send you the instructions.

 

[devans]

Oops, didn't know how to pm. Can the last message be removed.

 

[tscaptain]

Yes - and it has been. You can delete your own posts yourself, though![]

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

David - I found a Tiscali email address for you on my computer, so I sent the instructions there. As for PM's I'm not sure, but it looks like only members can PM, and not guests. Normally, you just hover your cursor over the username, and a window appears with a 'Send a Private Message' link. The link doesn't appear if I hover it over yours.

 

[devans]

Oh, many thanks Richard. Firstly, thanks for your worksheet, I did receive it. This will help with the job as I will do myself this week. Secondly, thanks for the advice re pm info. I use to be a member but when I moved the local club is now too far away. May think about joining again in the near future as I loved attending the outings, especially the woty events.

Anyway, I don't have the tool to split the steering arm ends from the joint at the wheel. On my 944 I milled out a metal wedge with a slot through it. Hammered this in place, which then split the joint. However, I think the threaded stud on the 996 is a bigger diameter so won't fit. Are there any tips that will help. Failing that, I might go to a local garage and see if they will lend me a tool for the job

 

[devans]

Bloody track rod ends won't budge. Penetrating oil been left on now for nearly two days. Rubber hammer not working, heavy hammer not working. Next bet is to take off the brake pads, calliper and brake discs, then see if I can wedge out. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[devans]

Stupid question but they do push out!!!! They're not screwed in are they.

 

[Pieman7]

Have you tried gently heating it?

 

[wibble]

After the nut is removed, a sharp blow on the wheel carrier (not the track rod) should release the tapered thread.

Also, another trick I've found is to put the wheel back on and lower the car, so the damper takes load and then a sharp blow to the carrier. This is usually enough to release load on the track rod. Heat would be last measure if you want to preserve rubber boot.