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Pulled the trigger on another 944

g59tester

PCGB Member
Member
Hi Guys, a few of you will recall me from 10 years ago. i've pulled the trigger on another 944, a 220 MY88, with 95 k miles on it . It is being delivered on Wednesday. The PO has had the car for the last 20 years and did much of the routine maintenance himself. So the first chore is to get the belts changed and a major service.
Some other issues spring to mind
1 There is only one ignition key and one immobiliser key. Presumably the OPC is the source for these and hopefully the cost is not like these newer coded versions?
2 The interior trim is red Pinstripe [ i dont have the code to hand] and the driver's bolster has been poorly repaired. Is this cloth likely to be available? Southbound?
3 The rubber trim insert in the rear bumper is damaged. Is this available? OPC only ? Is it an easy fix and does the bumper need to come off?
4 Given the mileage and the water pump is the original would you replace it when the belts are being done?
5 The car has a device fitted called, according to the PO a Turbo booster, there's a couple of fittings under the bonnet which apparently retain the pressure in the system for a short while when you come off the boost. At his stage i know nothing else about it. Anyone comments please?

thanks in anticipation
Regards Eddie Buckley
 
Good evening,

I’ve just bought the rubber strip from Porsche as I don’t have the time to wait and see if one comes up on eBay,
I looked around but could only find it from Porsche .

water pump ?? well I would think you would be silly not to
but that’s just my thoughts.


good luck ????


 
I just thought it might be common sense that all ,
as I said thats only my thoughts.


after driving around 700000 miles in my old van that’s 10 years old I would say I have put a pump in every time I change the belts !


that part is over 30 years old !
you said your going to change the belts so for a Few hundred pounds extra?


or after 500 miles or so ??
the water pump goes
your sitting thinking why did I not just fit one !


its your choice
your car is at an age that you take no chances

Im rebuilding an 87 turbo and I’m replacing everything I doubt



 
g59tester said:
Hi Guys, a few of you will recall me from 10 years ago. i've pulled the trigger on another 944, a 220 MY88, with 95 k miles on it . It is being delivered on Wednesday. The PO has had the car for the last 20 years and did much of the routine maintenance himself. So the first chore is to get the belts changed and a major service.
Some other issues spring to mind
1 There is only one ignition key and one immobiliser key. Presumably the OPC is the source for these and hopefully the cost is not like these newer coded versions?
2 The interior trim is red Pinstripe [ i dont have the code to hand] and the driver's bolster has been poorly repaired. Is this cloth likely to be available? Southbound?
3 The rubber trim insert in the rear bumper is damaged. Is this available? OPC only ? Is it an easy fix and does the bumper need to come off?
4 Given the mileage and the water pump is the original would you replace it when the belts are being done?
5 The car has a device fitted called, according to the PO a Turbo booster, there's a couple of fittings under the bonnet which apparently retain the pressure in the system for a short while when you come off the boost. At his stage i know nothing else about it. Anyone comments please?

thanks in anticipation
Regards Eddie Buckley
Welcome back Eddie!
1) I bought a key many years ago from the OPC they were able to cut it to the car from the chassis number - it actually looks slightly different but worked fine!. I think you can get blanks from various places (including OPC) and have them cut to match yours - No fancy electronics so not too pricey - I think you can get a plain key (without the light / porsche badge) cut at most key cutting places . the immobiliser keys (and sockets) were available from Hamilton and Palmer the original supplier.
2) not sure
3) I think they bolt through the bumper, I know if they are removed there are some holes to fill - no idea on price, surprisingly they don't seem to get damaged often so 2nd hand ones may be plentiful.
4) Water pump, yes worth putting a new one on if it is original coming up for 35 years old - you don't want to tension the belts and find it starts leaking or have the bearings fail
5) Could it be a boost enhancer and mis-described? otherwise not sure, any photos?

Cheers,
Tony
 
1-5 What Tony said, welcome back Eddie [:)]

Take a pic of the engine bay when it arrives and we can work out what extra plumbing has been installed
 
Thanks Guys, some of you must have been hanging around a long time now. Paul and Tony you must have racked up some big mileages...When i get the car on Wednesday I'll take some pics and then try and post them.... which looks a bit complicated to someone of my advancing years.
BTW I moved from Newbury to near Tewkesbury some 6 years ago now... so Xmas dinner at the New Inn near Hook isn't exactly convenient!....

Eddie
 
Eldavo, thanks for your post but clicking on the link brings up a RED 'warning dangerous content' message
Eddie
 
Re water pumps, it used to be bandied around that they should be changed with every 2nd belt replacement. Seems like overkill to me, bearing in mind the pump is at least 20 years and 3 belt changes old in my car. And there's nothing in the history before that. After Porsche introduced the 944, supposedly some belts failed unexpectedly, and Porsche may then have been over cautious on the belt/pump replacement schedule. In any case, the 944 cam belt tensioner doesn't seem to account for the block expanding, and more tension being placed on the water pump bearing. Maybe that's why the 968 tensioner is hydraulic?
 
g59tester said:
Eldavo, thanks for your post but clicking on the link brings up a RED 'warning dangerous content' message
Eddie
opened on edge and chrome on my PC there is some red pinstripe there,
Tony
 
g59tester said:
Thanks Guys, some of you must have been hanging around a long time now. Paul and Tony you must have racked up some big mileages...When i get the car on Wednesday I'll take some pics and then try and post them.... which looks a bit complicated to someone of my advancing years.
BTW I moved from Newbury to near Tewkesbury some 6 years ago now... so Xmas dinner at the New Inn near Hook isn't exactly convenient!....

Eddie
Will let Paul tell you his unfortunate story, My coupe stopped around 200k and is slowly getting closer to some attention sat in a corner of my unit. My cab does less than 1000 miles a year as its not insured for work travel. Tewkesbury is a nice town, I have some family in Malvern, so travelled through /round many times. Easiest way with pics is to host them elsewhere and link, though I think the forum does allow bigger photos than it used too.

Water pumps:- I changed the pump on my cab at around 72k miles as it was the original, studs were well corroded in so maybe worth it on those grounds - though they did create some extra work at the time, it still sealed well and bearings were good. I think it was worth doing for peace of mind but cant see me changing it again until at least 125k and at current rate of adding mileage, getting petrol might be an issue by then and I don't think I will be around to worry!
Tony

 
Hi So i've now got the car and had a look at the paperwork. The bad news is that the belts were last changed in Aug 2012!. so it will be a glass of water on the bonnet when I take it to Cotswold Porsche for that and a service. oil changes have been as required
The device under the bonnet is a Promax boost enhancer.. were they designed to make up for a weak wastegate spring.... I've forgotten a lot of this.
The chassis no is WPOZZZ95ZJN10018* followed by 952 052. the service book has it as an 88MY car. according to Peter Morgans Buyers guide the chassis number has it as an RoW 220
Again my memory is poor but was it not the case that 951 were 220's and 952's had the bigger turbo and were 250HP?
I've looked at Clarks garage for option codes and some of them make sense. however I'm still in the dark about the seat trim definition [the colour of the car is Maraschino Red metallic. I wonder how many turbo's were that colour... its pretty understated]
the codes i cant find are
45JO 0581 Model Description
51 ----UY Engine/ transmission Is that the 51 that says its a 220? UY is no oil Cooler
interior trim --/BP ?????
C48 E84 E07 option codes i cant find ???

Any help with any of these would be appreciated


Eddie Buckley
 
There have been differences of opinion about it, but I think 952 relates to rhd cars and or rhd parts. I'm just about to change the belts and rollers on my turbo for the 2nd time. For various reasons it's been around 10 years since I did them last. Far from ideal obviously, but there will have been 3 sets of belts in the last 25k miles.
 
Never had a turbo Porsche but did have a similar device on my last Rover Vitesse Turbo Sport which enhanced its performance considerably allowing it too stay on boost as you accelerated without having to change gear because of reaching the boost limit/blow of valve opening.
It gave a flatter torque curve with earlier boost onset & 250 BHP which wasn't too bad for that 4 pot engines.
It actually was just a manually adjustable needle valve in the line to the blow off valve which I could alter & just allowed a steady bleed of air that let the turbo run longer on boost.
 
My local OPC could get me a key... £84.... Timpsons has ordered a Porsche blank for £12. OPC didn't have a code reader for the Hamilton and Palmer immobiliser key, some OPC's do. This means I need to take a chance and post my only key to them and they will come up with a spare.... £40 odd if I remember correctly
My local trimmer, who is booked up for 18 months, it was 6 months when he did my'54 TF 3 years ago, suggested an out fit called West Trading NL. i googled them and immediately got up 2 versions of the Porsche Burgundy trim with different spacing between the white stitching. The trimmer will order the correct one but has recently had trouble getting supplies due to Brexit.
OPC couldn't help me with the 952/51 issue... Porsche heritage?

regards Eddie
 
Turbo specific parts are 951 designation, RHD Turbo specific parts are 952 designation. The chassis is a RHD Turbo chassis hence 952. It bears no relation to power output at all.


M44/51 is the 220bhp engine as you ascertained, M44/52 is the 250bhp one.

Not sure why the Werk924 link is flagged as dangerous . . . well except to your wallet!
 
Please find attached details of the Promax Boost Enhancer, (this will have to be two posts as it only allows me to insert one attachment at a time).


 
Explanation of the Boost Enhancer Construction & Operation.

The Boost Enhancer is a simple yet precise and well thought out adjustable boost pressure relief valve. The Boost Enhancer brings on the boost in the Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) earlier. Much earlier. CAD designed and CNC machined from 6061 Aircraft Grade Aluminium with a red and blue anodised finish. The Nylon Poppet with Nitrile Rubber Seal rides in a cylinder style bore maintaining a perfect re-seal every time the boost comes back down. With a full 1/4" bore for maximum signal flow to Wastegate when needed. This device completely prohibits airflow to the Wastegate until you want it.

Fully adjustable to 20 PSI and factory pre set at 10. This allows you to fine tune for your particular engine's requirements. By completely closing the flow of pressure to the Wastegate diaphragm and keeping it closed, it eliminates losing valuable exhaust pressure prematurely and spools the turbo up quicker. Then at the appropriate pressure setting, opens, and allows the Wastegate to function normally and monitor the maximum boost pressure. This translates into more boost and into horsepower from a lower RPM range. The Boost Enhancer works in conjunction with... Chips, Shimmed Wastegates, Exhausts & MAF units. Read what other users say about the Boost Enhancer.

Boost Enhancer Explanation and Adjusting (1) EXPLANATION:
The following is an explanation of how and why the Boost Enhancer works. Once you understand the basics of the 951 Wastegate system, you will see the necessity for the Boost Enhancer. First, let's explain the basics of turbo charging. Since a turbo is an exhaust driven device, the more pressure you build in the exhaust system, the faster the turbo spins up and the less lag time there is. Keep in mind that the typical turbo spins over 50,000 rpm at full pressure. The turbo takes time (lag) to reach this speed so the more exhaust pressure applied to it, the faster it will reach the necessary rpm to produce full boost. The waste gate is the device that regulates the speed of the turbo, otherwise with enough pressure the turbo would over-rev. This is a bad thing!
There is a diaphragm in the waste gate that contains the pressure and opens an exhaust valve inside that relieves excess exhaust gas pressure to slow the turbo down. This basic concept is used on virtually all turbo charged applications. The waste gate has a connection to the intake system that feeds boost pressure to it. This is essentially how the system works. The banjo bolt on the boost tube is where this connection to the waste gate takes place. Most people, even factory mechanics, are not aware of this fact: The factory design of the 951 Wastegate is such, that it opens as soon as any pressure is introduced. It might be barely open, but open none the less. The higher the boost pressure goes, the more it opens. The problem is it is dumping valuable exhaust pressure to drive the turbo, before it has to! More boost at a lower RPM means more torque and horsepower in that RPM range. Who knows why Porsche did this! Perhaps it was to make the car less of a handful and a little easier for the average person to drive. Remember the 951 was close to 911 performance. The 911 was more expensive with similar peak horsepower.
The solution to this problem is to slow or completely stop the air signal to the waste gate as long as possible. Most of you with stage 2 software have the modified banjo bolt that was supplied. This device has a restriction jet that slows the boost signal to the waste gate. It works well, but it only slows the boost reaching the waste gate. Why not stop it all together? That's where the Boost Enhancer comes in. This device does exactly that, it stops the boost signal until a pre-set pressure is reached, then full boost is applied to the waste gate and factory systems operate normally from that point on! It's not intended to allow you to build higher boost pressure, but to give you your normal level of boost much sooner. Once the Boost Enhancer is fully open, the factory controls for timing, fuel, knock control and maximum boost are still there, it is not intended to over ride them. Factory setting on the Boost Enhancer is 10psi. It requires 10 pounds of boost pressure to start to open it. The higher the pressure it receives, the further it opens and the more it flows air to the Wastegate. This setting is suitable for most cars including standard and chipped (up to 1 bar (15psi) of maximum boost) . The operation and adjustment apply to both 220bhp and 250bhp models.
We highly recommend that if you have the banjo bolt with the air restrictor, remove it and install the factory bolt! The reason for this is that once the Boost Enhancer opens, you need to get the boost to the waste gate as soon as possible. There is no more reason to delay it any longer! (This applies also to bleed off valves fitted after the timing or cycling valve; supplied with some performance chip upgrades) For street applications, there is really no advantage in changing the factory setting of the Boost Enhancer. We have already set it at the optimum pressure for safe operation. The speed of the turbo increases exponentially. In simple terms, the time it takes the turbo to build 4psi, it can go from 4 to 16psi just as fast. So if you set the Boost Enhancer too high, the turbo can spin up so fast that it could over-boost. The Factory computer will shut the engine off if this takes place, so you won't blow the engine. The 10psi-factory setting gives the waste gate time to regulate the turbo like it needs to. If you have a race car running significantly higher than normal boost pressures, a slight gain might be had by "Tweaking" the setting.
Boost Enhancer Explanation and Adjusting (2) ADJUSTMENT:
The following is an explanation of how to adjust the Boost Enhancer. The inner workings of the Boost Enhancer are as simple as it's function. It contains a valve and a spring. The more pressure you apply to the spring, the more pressure it takes to open the valve. It is factory set at 10psi. Beyond 10psi of boost, the valve starts to let air through the Boost Enhancer and down to the waste gate. The Boost Enhancer pressure should be set at 5psi less then the total boost you normally run. If running 15psi of boost, the boost Enhancer should be set at 10psi (it's factory setting). That allows a 5psi window of time for the signal of air to open the Wastegate properly and eliminate over boosting or boost spikes.
The housings of the Boost Enhancer screw together like a nut and a bolt. Right hand threaded. Once you loosen the "Jam" nut (the thin red nut) from the Inlet Housing (Blue Housing) you can screw the Outlet (Red Housing) in and out freely. One revolution equals approximately 1 psi of pressure. Tighten in (clockwise) one turn for one additional pound of pressure and loosen (counter clockwise) one turn to lower one pound of pressure. Two turns equals two pounds, etc... etc... After turning the housings to the desired position, you need to tighten down the "Jam" nut back against the Blue Housing. This locks the two housings back together again

 

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