Putting her on axle stands - how?

[Mark Elder]

This shows how non-mechanical I am.

I'm about to get my wheels refurbished and it will be better if I remove the wheels and leave the car on axles stands (or something) while the wheels are away.

How do I put the car on axle stands? And where do I put them?

I can jack the car up one corner at a time - but once car is jacked up the jack is in the place I want to put the axle stand! - I assume there must be a second position in each corner that is strong enough to take the weight of the car???

 

[Porker993]

I use two three tonne trolley jacks, four axle stands and an engine jack adaptor to cushion and support the engine, as you will need to jack up the rear of the car under the engine.

1. Place a trolley jack under the rear near side jacking point and jack up the n/s of the car so front and rear n/s wheels are in the air. Place an axle stand under the front n/s jacking point. Lower the car.

2. Place a trolley jack under the rear off side jacking point and jack up the o/s of the car so front and rear o/s wheels are in the air. Place an axle stand under the front o/s jacking point. Lower the car.

You now have a car supported on axle stands at the front, with it's rear wheels on the ground.

3. Place one trolley jack under each rear jacking point. Raise the car equally both sides, a little at a time.

4. Remove the engine undertray.

5. Lower the rear of the car.

6. Jack the rear of the car under the engine crankcase, using a special jack adaptor that you can buy on Pelican Parts, see 993 Workshop Manual for details. Some people fabricate them from steel, I made mine from thick timber. It works perfectly well, supporting and cushioning the engine, and provides a measure of stability.

7. Place axle stands under the rear jacking points.

8. Lower the car onto the rear axle stands.

The car is now in the air, supported by axle stands. I leave the jack under the engine in place as added insurance.

Please remember all the above is potentially highly dangerous. You should never work under or near a car supported by jacks.

I would advise using jack adaptors to fit the strange 993 jacking points, to avoid damaging the car and to give added stability.

 

[Porker993]

PS - you will need to loosen the wheel nuts slightly before you raise the car, as you won't be able to do it with the car in the air, unless you have an impact gun.

 

[Mark Elder]

Mark,

Oh - this seems a lot more difficult that I'd expected. My problem is I don't really want to leave the car with the wheel refurbishment guys.

Re-reading what you said I guess it is fairly straight forward (although I'll need two trolley jacks - currently have zero!).

I've been looking on the Pelican Part web site for the adapter you mentioned - but can't find it - indeed this page (below) suggests exactly where to jack directly on the crank case[&:])
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/pcar_com/jacking_up2.htm
Any chance of a photo of your timber version - that sounds more my style. I like the idea of using hockey pucks to protect the jacking points.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Porker993]

Hi Mark

I will post a photo of my wooden version later.

There was a great debate on Rennlist about whether to use a jack adaptor, or just jack straight onto the crankcase. Most people came down on the side of using an adaptor. I hate the thought of using my spikey trolley jack cup on the beautiful alloy crankcase, to jack ¾ of a ton of 993 rear end in the air. It's just not worth the risk in my view, plus it would be pretty unstable, unless you got exactly the right spot. The jack adaptor on Pelican Parts is a semi permanent "Jack Block". It fits to the rear engine carrier and costs a cool $250 dollars. Try searching for "993 Jacking Block" at www.pelicanparts.com, as I'm having problems posting the link.

 

[tscaptain]

ORIGINAL: Porker993
Try searching for "993 Jacking Block" at www.pelicanparts.com, as I'm having problems posting the link.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-993-JCKBLCK&catalog_description=Engine%20Jacking%20Block%2C%20993%20Carrera%2FCarrera%204%20%281996-98%29%20NOTE%3A%20Does%20NOT%20fit%201995%20or%20Turbo%20models

There you go![]

 

[Tiptronic2]

It might be a bit outside of his area but Chris at Excel will supply a set of loan wheels while they carry out the refurbishment. They have done an excellent job on a set of turbo wheels for my 993 c4s.

 

[A Ward]

I normally use a rubber pad on the jacking plate to the engine case - it grips it nicely and prevents any damage occuring. I guess it is just down to personal preference really.

I also take the engine cover off when I first jack the rear quarter of the car up otherwise if you leave it until after you've got the front of the car off the ground you won't have enough clearance.

I think it also depends what suspension springs you have - mine has the Porsche lowered M030 set-up (I think that is correct or perhaps it is M033) - so I normally have to reverse it up onto a couple of wooden decking blocks prior top jacking in order to get sufficient clearance for the jack to go underneath...although that may just be down to my trolley jacks design?

The other thing I would say is if you are just jacking the rear of the car don't forget to 'chock' the front wheels - otherwise the car will start to roll forward as you jack - assuming it is a C2 (C4 could be left in gear)

Hope that helps - I'm sure everyone has their own method depending on what type of car/options they have on their 993.

 

[RSGulp]

Ice hockey pucks are perfect as a 'jacking pad' to use between a trolley jack lifting surface and the underside of the engine casing. All the guys on Rennlist use them. They're available for a few quid on eBay or usually from you local ice-rink 'hockey shop'.

 

[Tony M]

This all seems a bit extreme for a wheel refurbishment project.

The cost of jacks, stands, $250 jacking plate, removing engine covers,transporting wheels to refurbishers, collecting wheels from refurbishers plus the danger of a mishap.

My local OPC will collect the car, refurb the wheels and return the car at a price of £55.00 + VAT per wheel.

I recentlly had 2 wheels on the Cayene done and they did a brilliant job.

 

[Porker993]

I agree. It really isn't worth the hassle. Hopefully by spelling out the procedure, it has given the OP the information he needs to make the right decision ! [] But if he does fancy having a go, that's how to do it.

 

[Porker993]

Here's a picture of my home made engine jacking pad in action - in case anyone is interested. I have used and re-used it several times with total success - Total cost £0.00.

 

[RSGulp]

ORIGINAL: Tony M

My local OPC will collect the car, refurb the wheels and return the car at a price of £55.00 + VAT per wheel.

Sound very good value - who is your OPC?

 

[Tony M]

ORIGINAL: RSGulp



Sound very good value - who is your OPC?

Porsche Mid Sussex

(The same place that charged me £310.00 for the battery swap !)

 

[Mark Elder]

Thanks everyone for all the info.

I had not actually thought of asking the OPC to do the job! - I guess it is worth a phone call, could indeed save me a lot of hassle.

 

[Taverner]

I had this problem earlier in the year. Bought a set of 18 inch hollow spoke wheels with tyres. Problem solved, no hassle and very happy. []

Michael