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Question for KW users...

bennyboy

bennyboy

New member
...do you also get a knocking noise at the right rear? When I put my used set on, there appeared to be some slight rubbing on the right-rear damper, which would support the knocking noise. Any thoughts chaps? thanks
 
Have you installed the rear units the right way round? The top mounting lug is offset to give the unit adequate clearance. Schoolboy error I know and i'm sure you've not made it, but just worth a mention just in case you've had an off-day!
 

ORIGINAL: bennyboy

I didn't install them, promax did so I would hope not! Any easy way of knowing?
Click to expand...

You're probably OK then, but no harm in looking. You'll need to stick your head under there and you should be able to see the attachment lug is not centralised at each end of the unit. I can't quite remember if the lug is offsett at both ends or just the top or bottom, but it looks a bit like this:-



DB4E84A2D84842EBAE2F7C03CD73AB21.jpg
 
There is no reason for them to knock unless something is hitting them or they are toast

DSCF2533%20(Small).JPG
 
The knocking happens between the upper "purple" top hat of the shock + the upper most torsion beam bracket/bush/bolt head..
How do i know, they used to be mine. If you look carefull at the purple top hat , youl find some marks in the ally where its been rubbing.
Yes it does happen to other KW users, as i was with a chap yesterday that was having exactly the same problem. Although it might not happen to all cases.
Not entirely sure of a fix. I suppose the only way to fix it is to space the top shock eyelet ,out [moving the top of the shock inboard], from the body in some way.
In fact it happens on my GAZ gold kit aswell. And theyve got spacers fitted.
Ben as you know we have disscused this , Im guessing youve "thrown it open" to see if any others have the same problem.
Hope somebody comes up with an ingenious fix for you.
 
Sounds like a classic case of it fouling with the underside of the car rather than the shock unit itself. Should be fixable. I guess there are two approaches - establish where on the underside they are contacting and modify that area, or somehow modify the KW unit to provide clearance. Do you get the same on both sides? If you swap the units does the knock follow the unit? If so then do the tow units look the same when compared side-by-side?
 
Thanks for the contribution Dave and yes, I was trying to uncover an ingenious solution from somebody else! Scott, I don't think I'm getting it on both sides, but that's only using my ears to judge so certainly not conclusive.
 
Where exactly does it contact?

Rear torsion beam mounts or upper gearbox mount would be my starting point.
 
On my car the contact was occurring on the corner edge aluminium section of the mounting bush

I managed to stop it hitting the spring cap by loosening the bush fixing bolts (with the load off the rear axle) and sliding it towards the rear of the car. The clearance between the holes and bolt head were just enough in my case.

If this does not fix it, you could carefully file a small amount of material from the edge of the Aluminium taking care not to compromising the function of the bush. Identifying exactly where the witness marks are is the key to a neat job.

If you have/can-gain access to a lift, viewing the underside with the full load on the suspension helps a lot.
 

ORIGINAL: Jonny944CS

On my car the contact was occurring on the corner edge aluminium section of the mounting bush

I managed to stop it hitting the spring cap by loosening the bush fixing bolts (with the load off the rear axle) and sliding it towards the rear of the car. The clearance between the holes and bolt head were just enough in my case.

If this does not fix it, you could carefully file a small amount of material from the edge of the Aluminium taking care not to compromising the function of the bush. Identifying exactly where the witness marks are is the key to a neat job.

If you have/can-gain access to a lift, viewing the underside with the full load on the suspension helps a lot.
Click to expand...


Both sides?
 
Both sides?
Click to expand...


Just the drivers side, if my memory serves me correct.

Attached is a photo taken before the mod.

It appears to be nice and clear at the std ride height, however as the wheel travels through bump, the spring cap moves towards the edge of the bush.

 
When they were fitted to my car, it was the passenger side that caught.
It rubbed on the bolt head in the picture in the previous post. I then fitted a domed headed , stainless bolt + it still made contact..
Ben I hope you manage to get a fix for this...
 
ORIGINAL: Big Dave

When they were fitted to my car, it was the passenger side that caught.
It rubbed on the bolt head in the picture in the previous post. I then fitted a domed headed , stainless bolt + it still made contact..
Ben I hope you manage to get a fix for this...
Click to expand...

Have the shocks done a few miles? Could the rubber bush at the top of the shock be deformed?

If so, a new one should help centralise the cap correctly, moving it away from the bolt.

KW UK have acess to the factory spares price lists and were very helpful when I had to purchase some bits for mine.

http://www.kw-suspensions.co.uk/uk/kw_contact_data.php

Alternatively, a cheaper solution could be to try pressing the internal steel sleeve to one side. But I have a feeling that once its all under load, it will re-position itself based on the shape of the rubber.
 
Thanks for the tips chaps. The car should be up on some ramps this week, so I will pass on the info to the specialist looking at it. Cheers.
 
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