Rattle can painting technique?

[Guest]

Any tips?

I have been sanding and sanding and sanding to prep. I intend to wash in soapy water, rinse, dry, then wipe with these pre-paint wipe things I got at Halfords. I have a build up primer and a regular primer. I will 1200 grit wet sand after the build up primer. I also plan to 1200 grit colour sand if it looks like it needs it after final paint. I will prob do 3 light coats of "guards" red.

How much paint is a light coat? I never really know how much paint to spray. I think I have been guilty of using too much in the past when doing wheel centres.

Thanks.

 

[TopCarrera]

Richard,

This takes me back to the days (many years ago) that I sprayed a MK2 Escort complete in light blue from Aerosol cans. I then moved on to a budget compressor and gun set up and did several old Lancias. I finally grew up got lazier and bought a car that doesn't deteriorate much if it is looked after!

Coating thickness - Who knows I would guess at 15/20 microns?

Are you using cellulose?

Have you practiced much on test panels / scrap metal ?

What area are you trying to paint ?

Choose a branded quality paint mixed to a code. If you need to get more paint in the future then choose the same brand and code and the match should be perfect

Have you looked at getting a cheap compressor and gun - its so much easier to get a consistent fan pattern and uniform paint delivery.

Aerosol cans only work in small obscure areas OR if you are prepared to hand finish in 1200 or finer with finishing compound (eg Farecla G8/G10) to generate a consistent finish. This can take days/weeks to do a whole car. If you do a single panel then you stand the risk of having the finish very different to that of the factory and it stands out a mile!

In my experience 1980s 911s have good levels of finish - i.e. check sharpness of reflection image in paintwork. Most "factory" finishes are diabolical in this respect but at a glance look good because the finish is very consistent.

Forget Halfords and go to a decent motor factors / re-finishing supplies for consumables. You will get the proper stuff at half the price ........

Use cellulose if you can it is the easiest to work with (and put right if you balls up!)

When putting on paint you should aim to get a consistent "wet" coat on that is not quite enough to generate runs. You should let this flash off fully before applying another one or maybe two coats. Apply with nozzle of can/gun at a consistent distance (1.5 ft) from surface and move spray hand in deliberate even speed traverses of the panel (as if you are squeegeeing a window!). Avoid dry spray, and avoid trying to put too much paint on generating blistering/cracking.

Again would be interested to know what you are trying to paint

 

[Guest]

Ducktail !

 

[Bazgillie]

Richard
Put a coat of primer onto the panel and then you will have some idea of what you will get when finished. If you just mist the first coat of primer on this will help the next coat bond better. You will find it easier to sand primer than fiber glass and the paint will fill in lots of marks. With multiple coats people fill in the grain on bumpers with high build primer.
Baz

 

[Guest]

OK - I have high build and regular primer. I am told my ducktail is of "very high quality", though after 3 hours of detailed wet sanding with 600grit, I hate to think what a low quality one looks like ! I am definitely ready to paint now. I have 3 cans of "guards red" mixed up by a paint supply co.

I have a white primer for fibreglass so I can match the factory red over white. I plan to colour sand the red, then polish.

Thanks for the tips. Will post results in a few weeks (I am travelling a bit and may take a while to get this finished).

RB