Rear bumper stays
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clyde
New member
I'm going to have to this as well sometime as the bumpers are well wobbly at the ends. It looks relatively easy when you look at the exploded view on PETS but then I've thought that before.
Have you checked whether anything else needs done at the same time or are the 4 stays the only bits that have gone? I haven't been under mine to have a good look but suspect that if these relatively hefty chunks of steel have rusted away there must be other associated bits past their best as well.
I don't understand why they have rusted as they don't seem to trap water or mud and being as close as they are to the engine, exhaust, etc I wouldn't have thought they would have been affected by road spray as they woulf dry out quickly.
Have you checked whether anything else needs done at the same time or are the 4 stays the only bits that have gone? I haven't been under mine to have a good look but suspect that if these relatively hefty chunks of steel have rusted away there must be other associated bits past their best as well.
I don't understand why they have rusted as they don't seem to trap water or mud and being as close as they are to the engine, exhaust, etc I wouldn't have thought they would have been affected by road spray as they woulf dry out quickly.
Its an easy job,if you dont need to use the car for a few days its worth taking the bumper off to have a look at what you need.
A quick summary is; Wheels off,rear part of wheel arch liners off-then unscrew the lights....only the lights not the centre reflector.
Black plastic reflector top cover off.
Unplug light plug in rhs rear corner of engine bay (will become obvious when you pull the bumper away).
Now the bumper fixings themselves;
youve got all the obvious ones right round the bottom lip.
4 or 5 along the top above the reflector strip.
Then 3x8mm headed screws(each side) up inside the wheel arch connecting the top edge sides of the bumper to the body.
Now you should be able to slide it back and away from the car(can get a bit stuck as you pull it back underneath the body where the lights fit.
Hope this helps,excuse my poor typing.
Dan
A quick summary is; Wheels off,rear part of wheel arch liners off-then unscrew the lights....only the lights not the centre reflector.
Black plastic reflector top cover off.
Unplug light plug in rhs rear corner of engine bay (will become obvious when you pull the bumper away).
Now the bumper fixings themselves;
youve got all the obvious ones right round the bottom lip.
4 or 5 along the top above the reflector strip.
Then 3x8mm headed screws(each side) up inside the wheel arch connecting the top edge sides of the bumper to the body.
Now you should be able to slide it back and away from the car(can get a bit stuck as you pull it back underneath the body where the lights fit.
Hope this helps,excuse my poor typing.
Dan
Mine rotted away completely at the bottom, where mud gets trapped. After I changed them I made sure I gave them a good blast with the hose every time I washed the car.
As I remember, it was a pig to get at the top fixing of the rear support, as it is very tight for space in there. I had the benefit of having the car on a 2-post lift which made it a bit easier. It would make it a lot easier if the rear PU was removed.
As I remember, it was a pig to get at the top fixing of the rear support, as it is very tight for space in there. I had the benefit of having the car on a 2-post lift which made it a bit easier. It would make it a lot easier if the rear PU was removed.
clyde
New member
That seems quite straight forward then Dan [
].
Do you know if there tends to be anything else that needs replacing at the same time? My cars a daily drive and I would prefer to get all the bits before I start.
Richard - my stays have all rotted in the middle, which is why I don't really understand it. They don't seem to trap mud or water at this point.
].Do you know if there tends to be anything else that needs replacing at the same time? My cars a daily drive and I would prefer to get all the bits before I start.
Richard - my stays have all rotted in the middle, which is why I don't really understand it. They don't seem to trap mud or water at this point.
Pickled Piper
New member
Definitely take the rear PU of. Jack up the car one side at a time and this will allow you easier access to some of the mounting screws. On my car the heat shields that join the bottom of the Pu had come loose. These were easily repaired with penny washers and new screws from Halfords.
Put some masking tape on the body of the car just above the PU. This will prevent any scratches when you slide the PU on and of.. It's not a difficult job just be patient.
the stays are prone to corrosion becasue they recieve lots of road spray and also heat from the exhaust boxes. Perfect conditions for corrosion.
oh yes just remembered. once the PU is removed you will get very good access to the heat shields on the exhaust boxes. if these have never been replaced then they will either be broken or have fallen off completely.
pp
Put some masking tape on the body of the car just above the PU. This will prevent any scratches when you slide the PU on and of.. It's not a difficult job just be patient.
the stays are prone to corrosion becasue they recieve lots of road spray and also heat from the exhaust boxes. Perfect conditions for corrosion.
oh yes just remembered. once the PU is removed you will get very good access to the heat shields on the exhaust boxes. if these have never been replaced then they will either be broken or have fallen off completely.
pp
I am glad you mentioned heat shields PP. At the last 4 services (OPC and JZ) there have been question marks over whether to replace PU stays and heat shields on my car as they are all looking rather loose and unstable. The decision each time has been to wait and see if anything really starts to look like falling off. At the last service (at JZ) two of the shields were taken off.
Is it a much bigger job to have a go at all the heat shields while doing the stays? I know mine have to be done at some time and the price seems to have gone up from £500 (OPC) to £800 (JZ in March) over the last 4 years.
Cheers,
Is it a much bigger job to have a go at all the heat shields while doing the stays? I know mine have to be done at some time and the price seems to have gone up from £500 (OPC) to £800 (JZ in March) over the last 4 years.
Cheers,
With the Rear PU off, changing the cat heat shields is the simplest part of the whole job. There are 3 in total, although interestingly, mine, as a very early 993 had a fourth which I believe was dropped from later model years. A long'ish one along the cat itself, and then two 'elbow' ones to the sides. They all fasten on with small bolts which don't tend to rust as they are on the top side of the cat. I paid about £86 for the 3 heat shields from an OPC with 10% PCGB discount 2 years ago. The bolts etc cost pennies. Whilst you're in there, it is worth having a close look at the 'foil liner' or heat shield for the PU itself. Mine was a bit 'raggy' at the bottom, but I refitted it with bigger washers. In fact, I've recently bought a new one (£136 incl 10% discount) as I'm about to take the PU off again so thought I might as well fit a new one. As others have said, with care and the odd bit of brute force on rusty fittings, it's a straight forward DIY job.
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