Rear discs & pads required.

[Ian Bloxsom]

The aging 964 passed the MOT today, however I had an advisory notice that the rear discs and pads are shortly requiring replacement.
Any advice on where to buy these, and what pads would be recommended for road use only?
There are a pair of discs on Ebay, currently but these are for a Carrera 2, and mine is a 4. Any idea's as to what the difference would be?
Thanks.

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

Ian,

Provided the C2 is standard, i.e. not Turbo bodied, then the rear brake discs are the same as the C4. Bear in mind, though, that the pads are not necessarily so. The early C2 had the small 2-piston calipers and smaller pads compared to the later 4-piston calipers as used on the C4. For road use - and anything but REALLY serious track use - most people seem to recommend the standard OEM pads from the OPC. BTW, the standard C2/C4 rear discs are p/n 951.352.041.02.

Regards

Dave

 

[burrow01]

Hi

Not sure if it is the same for 964's but on a 993 the brake pads from Textar are exactly the same as the Porsche branded ones, but approx 50% cheaper []

Pete

 

[tim_haskins]

I used textar pads on the rear of my 964 and have had no problems I too believe that they are OEM. On the c4 rear you should have a great selection of pads (they are the same pads as used in the fronts) The rears should be the same pysical size as the fronts but the piston sizes are 28 and 30mm. The rear discs are the same for either c2 or c4.

Tim

 

[Ian Bloxsom]

Gentlemen,
thanks for the quick response and the advice. I'll go with your recommendations.
Is DIY replacement for both the pads and the discs an option? If so can any advice be offered?

 

[tim_haskins]

Hi Ian,

Yes its a diy job as long as your confident in what your doing.......If your unsure about brakes then its probably worth leaving it to an independant to do (safety in mind)....

rough procedure as follows

1) loosen rear wheels and jack up rear of car, support on axel stands
2) chock front wheels and remove rear wheels
3) unclip brake pad retainer and unplug wear sensor
4) undo the two allen screws holding the caliper onto the upright.(there is a hole in the upright to insert allen key)
5) wiggle the caliper a bit and it will come away from the disc,failing this undo bleed nipple and then wiggle caliper...this makes it easier to squeeze the pistons back in.....support the caliper with a cable tie or string
6) remove old pads and squeeze back pistons....make sure that there is enough volume in the reservoir to catch the fluid as the pistons are squeezed back in.
7)remove the countersunk screw holding the disc onto the carrier.sometimes these screws are tight and need to be undone with an impact screw driver
8)let hand brake off from inside the car and then the disc will come off.
9)replace disc with new part.
10)fit caliper back on to carrier.
11)fit the new anti vibration pads...i like to use a small amount of copper grease on the rear of the pad to help with brake squeel.
12)slide in new pads and lock in place with the spring. connect up sensors.
13)bleed brakes
fit wheels etc


Easy job if your used to doing work on cars....no harder than doing front discs and pads on a ford escort!!. But please remember to drive the car with care for a couple of hundread miles to allow the pads to bed in.


Probably will take 2hrs ish to do.

Tim

 

[vitesse]

Tim,
Good job you give Rough instructions;If Ian,there is some plate lift on your calipers,you may well struggle a little getting the old pads out-you will certainly struggle getting new ones back in unless the plate lift is sorted-you wouldn't want to replace the discs & leave any plate lift as it was-so a relatively simple DIY job can leave you stuck with your car needing rebuilt calipers unless you are reasonably brake competent.I hope you are but plate lift leads to new cupro-nickel brake pipes to connect to the flexibles,ability to get the SS plate fixing screws out,remove corrosion,re-paint the calipers,straighten(or new) plates,refix with new SS screws-almost certainly new pad wear lead & maybe disc securing screws.How do I know?-well thats what our C2 needed.

Not being a pessimist,here,just prudent-your hubs ,etc maybe perfect-and then there are the handbrake shoes & the re-adjustment of them.
Cheers,
Coloin.

 

[tim_haskins]

colin,

I agree with the plate lift......It is possible that it maybe an issue and it is a bit of a pain to sort out. ?I recently refurbed a pair of 993 rears that had 'some' plate lift. The hard bit is removing the old screws but a bit of persitance with wd40 a hammer and center punch they came out not too bad in the end!!. I had my calipers powder coated red to match the big red fronts (993 n/a calipers only come in black or silver) so the corrosion was cleaned off by the blaster....my caliper plates then fitted back perfectly with new stainless screws.

I did however have to strip the caliper down compleatly to get the factory look i was after. I replaced the seals and dust boots too, the pistons were fine and were reused,new PORSCHE stickers and New bleed nipples compleated the rebulid.

On saying this when i changed my 964 rear calipers for the 993 the old ones were in perfect shape and had very little or no lift. I supose its just your luck as to if the calipers need a rebuild....

Its also possible that the bleed nipples are stuck in the caliper and wont undo.....!!!!

The problem is as with any job you undertake there are always if's buts and maybes......As i said if unsure then get an indie to do it.....i would of thought around £500 inc parts for genuine porsche stuff....or 350 using aftermarket parts + any additional work required on calipers....not cheap but nothing ever is with a porsche!! I am glad i can do my own!!!



Tim

 

[Ian Bloxsom]

Tim, Colin,
thanks for the advice. I used to work on cars a lot in my younger days, and when they were a lot simpler. However retirement means I may have to start and do more myself as I try to run the car as cheaply as possible, however a Porsche is a Porsche, enough said.
I feel I want to tackle this, with the help of my son and you guys.
However could you explain what you mean about "plate lift" and the need to maybe fit new cupro-nickel brake pipes to connect to the flexibles.
Forgive my ignorance and for dragging this out.

 

[tim_haskins]

no problem ian.....thats what the club is all about

plate lift....

on the top and bottom of the pads there are plates which are held in with m6x10 screws these are part of the caliper. They are just stainless steel plates that protect the caliper casting. The problem is that water gets between the steel and the alloy of the caliper resulting in corroision. This bends the plate and hence makes the brake pads stick and also makes it difficult to remove and install new pads. If you look at the pads you can see the plates and also how bad they look. If they are raised then you will have to remove the securing screws and clean the rust off below the caliper plates....this can prove tricky.You then need to repaint the effected area.


new cupro-nickel brake pipes

These are the hard metal brake lines connecting from the rubber flex pipe to the caliper. Sometimes the brake line fitting can be difficult to remove due to rust. Mainly due to the alloy-copper reaction. If you need to remove the caliper then this could be of concern....it can can also turn into a nightmare depending on how far you need to go before you can remove the caliper....ie cant undo the caliper....cant undo the flex pipe etc....

Just if's and buts you need to check everything first....colin probably had thse issues and is not alone....mine were very tight but they did undo in the end......you must also watch that the threads dont get damaged....

Tim

 

[vitesse]

Ian,
If you keep your back issues of Porsche Post,July 2008 (I think) contained a good members article on correcting plate lift on a 944-it all applies to a 964 as well.Being prepared for all eventualities should avoid you getting stuck with car in your garage at a stage where you can't get it back together again to get it to a pro.
Initially,dose all connections to be removed with WD40 or alternative-but clean off road/brake dust etc first(wear a mask!)

I clamp off the flexible hoses with a patent plastic clamp-try the union nuts on the rigid pipe to caliper/flex pipe-it's usually the flex joint that's awkward-the solution is to release the spring clip.grip the union boss with Visegrips & make sure you use a good fitting spanner-I use both std & special slotted brake union types.

If the small buttonhead screws securing the SS plates are impossible to move or their socket heads are corroded,you can countersink M10 nuts & welded them on top allowing removal with a nolrmal spanner(the heat also softens the threadlock that is used on assembly).

All the above assumes you have platelift.

If you don't(&even if you do),I find that grinding the outer ridge on both sides of the disc with a small hand grinder makes it far easier to remove the pads.The advantage of clamping the hose is that you can open the bleed nipple which then allows you to lever the caliper pistons back a little to help.

 

[Ian Bloxsom]

Ok guys,
I now have the full picture, thanks for this. I will have a go when I have all the "bits" and tools described, available and keep you posted.
I know this job is not rocket science, however I always feel, as I'm so out of practice, that DIY on the Porsche is a bit of a no no.
Thanks once again I really appreciate your help. [8|]