Rear hatch pins

[Alpine]

I have a terrible rattle coming from the rear and I guess it is the hatch pins that are worn.

How easy is it to change them? I assume you only need to change the pins on the hatch, and not what they clamp into in the body?

 

[944 man]

Sometimes just the pins will do the job, but not always. They dont last well though, so if you buy just these first the money wont be wasted.

 

[edh]

Very easy to change - provided the locking nuts aren't seized. I bought some stainless pins from rennbay - pointless "bling" I know, and ruins my concours chances []

4 other possible causes
Pins just need adjusting
The locks themselves may be worn or seized
Struts very soft
Tailgate seal needs replacing

Over the past 3 years I have replaced all the components - my hatch is now rattle free []

 

[dlknight]

ORIGINAL: Alpine

I have a terrible rattle coming from the rear and I guess it is the hatch pins that are worn.

How easy is it to change them? I assume you only need to change the pins on the hatch, and not what they clamp into in the body?

I had to dremel a slot into the cheesehead screws on mine as they were completely siezed up, then used a massive screwdriver to remove the complete block that the hatch pin was attached to. The pins were also rusted solid onto the "rubber" blocks so I had to replace those with new ones and new cheesehead screws.

After that it was just a case of:

1. Adjust pins.
2. Tighten locking nut.
3. Shut boot, if it doesn't shut easily or not at all the pins are too short, adjust them to make them longer.
4. Give the boot a good tug [] up and down (on both sides) and see if there is any movement, if so go back to step 1 until its nice and tight and shuts relatively easily.

Regards

Dave K.

PS. You may also need new locking mechanisms as they become worn over time, I think they were about £20 each last time (I only needed one), clean them and lubricate them with some grease/wd40.

 

[Fat Albert]

Also check your rear exhaust hangers!

I spent ages greasing and adjusting my hatch pins to try and eradicate what I thought was the hatch sqeaking, only to find it was the exhaust!

(Obviously the 2 minute job to adjust the exhaust turned into a 1 hour drilling out of the snapped rusted studding on the hanger[])

 

[sawood12]

The catches may also be worn - mine were so I replaced those - though I couldn't replace my pins because the screws were siezed. Another job on my to do list - though changing the catches did improve things. People seem to get good improvements from replacing the tailgate seals and also removing the frame from around the glass hatch and re-setting in some glue stiff- but that is a big big job.

 

[Alpine]

sorry to bring up an old thread, but I really must get round to replacing my pins as the noise is driving me mad.

I've found these on e-bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PORSCHE-924-924S-944-968-HATCH-PIN-KIT-BRAND-NEW-GEN_W0QQitemZ350208136730QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item518a08161a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1689%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

am I right to think that I need to undue the rubber block, and then these fit inside? The securing nut on one side will not budge, but does that not mater as long as I can get the blocks out? Am I likely to need any other parts other than these? Sorry to be a bit dopey but I'm not that great with a screwdriver and I don't want to have a go and be left with a boot lid that I can't close, which is likely to happen knowing my luck !

 

[944 man]

Have you downloaded the PET for you car and then asked your local OPC for prices from the part numbers? Theyre almost always cheaper than eBay skankers for parts such as this (sometimes by £10 on a £15 part!). Exeter OPC may well be cheaper still and theyre very likely to be more interested.

Simon

 

[sawood12]

Right on Simon. I got mine from the OPC. Can't remember how much they were but they were cheap. If it is anything like DME relays then these Ebay suppliers are a rip off.

 

[mr brightside]

ORIGINAL: Alpine



am I right to think that I need to undue the rubber block, and then these fit inside? The securing nut on one side will not budge, but does that not mater as long as I can get the blocks out? Am I likely to need any other parts other than these? Sorry to be a bit dopey but I'm not that great with a screwdriver and I don't want to have a go and be left with a boot lid that I can't close, which is likely to happen knowing my luck !

I did this job recently, the whole block has to come off by undoing the two torx screws which were factory threadlocked so make sure you're using the correct size tool cos if you strip the heads you'll have to drill them off.
Also if you change the latches like i did don't overtighten the mounting nuts or you'll squeeze the latch casing onto the internals and sieze it up, this happened to my old ones. I set up the pins using a ruler then made final adjustments individually.