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Rear seat removal

If you have the single backrest then it's dead easy - 2 bolts. Even the split I imagine is just 4 bolts.

The squabs are just glued to the floor if you want them out as well.
 
I have removed the backrest(1 piece) and the seatbelts but the rest seems very firmly in place any tips where to start getting it out please!!!!
 
The bit you have left is just a moulded piece of foam with the cover over it. It's stuck down with an Evostick type adhesive, but it does just pull off - or mine did anyway.
 
Saw the thread and was wondering why you were taking the seats out? just being nosey really.

Mine spends most of the time with the backrest folded down anyway as I'm always lugging guitar amplifiers and drums around. (amazed at just how much I can get in the back) I was considering taking them out too - firstly I don't need the extra weight and also I could still use the extra space.

I was wondering about carpeting the space out keep things looking nice back there.
Do you guys know of anyone who has done this? At some point I'll want to put the seats back so I want it to be a reversible step. Also I don't want to permanently affect the value of the car.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
removal of the folding section is easily replaceable getting a neat job on replacing the foam and cover might be very difficult - you need that very sticky glue for a start.
Tony
 
I have removed the folding top section the rest is proving difficult,there seem to be metal clips along the top edge of the seat,what actually comes out just the foam and the cover or is there an actual seat moulding which is glued?
 
I forgot the metal clips - they just hold the cover over the edge of the metal floor. The rest of it is just a foam moulding stuck to the floor.
 
Job done removed the metal clips and carefullypulled the seats from the car was only glued in about two or three places.
Thanks for the advice everyone,this forum has again proved invaluable!!!
 
It seems wrong now, but seems right when you do it.

Just rip it out. Grab a corner and pull hard.

No, really.


Oli.
 
Remove the metal clips on the trailing edge of the seat > leading edge of the load deck. From the floor, carefully pull the upright carpet sections away from the vertical metal underneath where the rear seat passengers knees go: these are connected to the rear seat. Make certain that youve removed all seatbelt fixings and anything else that may be holding the seat down; then start at the top by the load deck and pull the seat away from the metal.
 
Thanks it does seem so wrong, I take it that you just use carpet glue something like copydex to replace it.
 
As above, tricky little bit is the front edges on the trans tunnel which is designed to tuck under the carpet, likewise there are some other bits that tuck in like up around the load deck. Just get these bits out first then and make sure you don't have any material trapped under any carpet then I am afraid it is a case of pulling the rest out away from the glue. S2 shouldn't be to bad as the glue is not so strong. Later cars like my 968 and the 964 are a nightmare as they 'improved' the glue to something that bends the rules of physics. As an example removing the middle carpet from my 968 (the one that goes under the front seats and over the trans tunnel) took me 3 hours of near constant struggle, each heave only released another inch or so and at the end of it all I was pretty well shattered.
 
Dont get the car or the squab dirty and itll re-adhere using the existing glue.

As Neil has stated above: 968 glue is FAR stronger than the stuff they used in Neckarsulm... Now you know why Kevin sends 968s to be acid dipped with half their trim still attached. [:D]
 

ORIGINAL: 944 man

Dont get the car or the squab dirty and itll re-adhere using the existing glue.

As Neil has stated above: 968 glue is FAR stronger than the stuff they used in Neckarsulm... Now you know why Kevin sends 968s to be acid dipped with half their trim still attached. [:D]
Click to expand...

He did find it fairly amusing when I told him about my carpet heaving exploits [:D]. It comes down to cost at the end of the day, it took me about a weeks effort to carefully de-trim the S2 at workshop rates that is about £1200 quid, just to do the carpets is at least a whole days effort as the rear quarter sections tend to leave sound deadening material all over the place that is a pain to clear up, again that is a good couple of hundred quid + at workshop rates. Far more then the carpets are worth so Kev is right, let the acid take them its just not worth the effort for a business.

+1 about the keeping the back of the seat clean, it will go back in no problem.
 
I was wondering about taking the carpets out and using a carpet and steam cleaner to get the smell of oil from the car its especially bad around the rear hatch area. The last owner had half his workshop in the boot and it smells like an old metal workshop. Having looked at the carpets in the footwells it seems to be straight onto bare metal so this shouldn't be a problem but I was under the impression that the carpets had underlay in so I think the car has had the carpets out at somepoint.
 
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