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rear seat removal

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944cop

New member
I am in the process of removing the interior to give it all a proper check and clean I have removed the front seats and top half of the rear seats but for the life of me I cannot figure how to remove the bottom half of the rear seat. It appears to be glued in but just trying to rip it out seems wrong. Would gratefully appreciate any advice thanks.
 
It seems wrong now, but seems right when you do it. Just rip it out. Grab a corner and pull hard. No, really. Oli.
 
Remove the metal clips on the trailing edge of the seat > leading edge of the load deck. From the floor, carefully pull the upright carpet sections away from the vertical metal underneath where the rear seat passengers knees go: these are connected to the rear seat. Make certain that youve removed all seatbelt fixings and anything else that may be holding the seat down; then start at the top by the load deck and pull the seat away from the metal.
 
Thanks it does seem so wrong, I take it that you just use carpet glue something like copydex to replace it.
 
As above, tricky little bit is the front edges on the trans tunnel which is designed to tuck under the carpet, likewise there are some other bits that tuck in like up around the load deck. Just get these bits out first then and make sure you don't have any material trapped under any carpet then I am afraid it is a case of pulling the rest out away from the glue. S2 shouldn't be to bad as the glue is not so strong. Later cars like my 968 and the 964 are a nightmare as they 'improved' the glue to something that bends the rules of physics. As an example removing the middle carpet from my 968 (the one that goes under the front seats and over the trans tunnel) took me 3 hours of near constant struggle, each heave only released another inch or so and at the end of it all I was pretty well shattered.
 
Dont get the car or the squab dirty and itll re-adhere using the existing glue. As Neil has stated above: 968 glue is FAR stronger than the stuff they used in Neckarsulm... Now you know why Kevin sends 968s to be acid dipped with half their trim still attached. [:D]
 
ORIGINAL: 944 man Dont get the car or the squab dirty and itll re-adhere using the existing glue. As Neil has stated above: 968 glue is FAR stronger than the stuff they used in Neckarsulm... Now you know why Kevin sends 968s to be acid dipped with half their trim still attached. [:D]
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He did find it fairly amusing when I told him about my carpet heaving exploits [:D]. It comes down to cost at the end of the day, it took me about a weeks effort to carefully de-trim the S2 at workshop rates that is about £1200 quid, just to do the carpets is at least a whole days effort as the rear quarter sections tend to leave sound deadening material all over the place that is a pain to clear up, again that is a good couple of hundred quid + at workshop rates. Far more then the carpets are worth so Kev is right, let the acid take them its just not worth the effort for a business. +1 about the keeping the back of the seat clean, it will go back in no problem.
 
I was wondering about taking the carpets out and using a carpet and steam cleaner to get the smell of oil from the car its especially bad around the rear hatch area. The last owner had half his workshop in the boot and it smells like an old metal workshop. Having looked at the carpets in the footwells it seems to be straight onto bare metal so this shouldn't be a problem but I was under the impression that the carpets had underlay in so I think the car has had the carpets out at somepoint.
 
There should be sound deadening panels under the carpet. Steam cleaning: I wont say that you can, in case it goes wrong and yuo blame me. What I will say is that I have seen many, many sets of scruffy 944 carpet brought back to life using a steam cleaner (and Ive never seen one spoilt either). Even 1988> linen carpets have come up like new, so Id give it a go: but do it with care. Simon
 
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