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Recharging Battery/PA1000 Snags...Help...

day1zero

day1zero

New member
Just return back from a spell away.....Battery completely flat....connected CERTEK 3600 (First time ever used this). Alarm started clicking ....as the battery is recoverying the alarm sound is getting louder....cant seem to cancel the alarm.....

Any ideas....?

I did not disconnect the battery to recharge ...as stated by the CERTEK info...

TVM

Chris
 
You can silence the alarm by turning the key switch on the alarm module in the engine bay. You should have a small key to allow this. This won't stop the alarm, but at least it will shut it up!
It sounds like the alarm is armed, but the battery is too flat to do much about it. As the charger gets some power into the battery, you may be able to cancel the alarm with the key fob and allow the charger to carry on its work. If you leave the charger on, make sure the bonnet is securely closed otherwise the bonnet light will stay on and drain power.
Let us know how you get on.
 
Sorted manage to cancel the alarm with the fob eventually........the neighbours are speaking to me now....

How long will it take to charge (approx)....dying to take her out!!!!

 
Quick ??? tagged on the end......It is ok to leave my CERTEK Conditioner/Maintainer connected for long periods? (apprrox two weeks before I start her again)

TVM
 
According to their website it "can be left connected for months - ideal for vehicles used only occasionally" so you should be okay.
 
ORIGINAL: sidned

If you leave the charger on, make sure the bonnet is securely closed otherwise the bonnet light will stay on and drain power.
Click to expand...

I quite often leave a trickle charger connected. It is difficult to close the bonnet with a wire going into the front, so I have taken the bulb out of the bonnet light (how useful is this anyway?) and using a screwdriver, click the bonnet catch closed so that the alarm can be set while leaving the bonnet slightly open. Only works if the car is in a garage of course.
 
I have a CERTEK 3600 as well, I put it on a 'flat' battery ( not on car ) took 1 week before the green light came on. Connected to the car I had it connected for 2 months, started this weekend first turn of the key [:)]
 
The CTEK XS 7000 is quicker - half the time to charge from flat compared to the 3600 and according to the websites, the XS 25000 is three times quicker still. I use a 7000 and a 3600 and they ensure the garage-queens start easily every time. Not sure what i'd do if the car was kept outside...
 
Mine lives outsde, and it's been a total pain to keep enough charge through this winter. The battery is good (third new one in 9 months! Got retailer to swap last one as it kept discharging, but new one does the same). Only lasts 3 days tops at the moment. I've now bought a battery booster (auxiliary battery thing) after consulting Ray Northway who reckoned it should be OK to use regularly. But I still put the car on charge whenever I can on dry days. If I could get a conditioner connected safely I would, but am concerned about getting the bonnet to close properly with a wire running out of it, not to mention across the driveway.
Cheers, Craig
 
Only one way to keep your battery charged up and thats to drive the car. Unfortunately the downside is that the car wears out quicker.
Peter[&o]
 
Hi Craig, sorry to hear about your electrical problem.

Did Ray Northway test your battery for you or offer any clues as to what the problem may be? Do you know for certain that the current battery is in good condition? 993s can be prone to irritating electrical problems but I've not seen a case where such a problem would flatten a battery after 3 days. And, I don't see that the 'battery booster' is solving the problem.

If you want to look into this a bit further, there is a technical note on the 993 register which may help.
Please don't mess about with electrics unless you know what you are doing.

Let us know how you get on....

Regards

Bob

 
Hi Bob - Northway's did a quick check but as it's the third battery since last |April there's something running it down pretty quickly - but nothing very significant shows up under test ( the AA have checked it three times when I've called them out, which I had to do again yesterday...). I reckon the second immobiliser is the culprit. I'm going to have the original alarm and the immobs ripped out and a new kit fitted and see if that works, plus empty my garage of the £150 worth of useless crap it contains so I can get the car in and connect it to a battery conditioner.

By the way, can anyone recommed a good replacement alarm, and installer? What should |i be looking at paying?

Cheers, Craig
 
Thanks Maurice, but you see, if you stick me in front of a load of technical articles, all hell will break loose when I try to do something myself and eventually I'll have to call someone with a trailer to take away the pile of bits [:eek:]and put it all back together again. Much as I like the thought of doing it myself, I'm actually completely hopeless and frankly dangerous with a spanner in my hand...[:)]
 
my 2 pennies worth?

I retro fitted a new radio/CD head unit in place of my classic blaupunkt. Then found my battery was discharging from my daily driver by around Friday (usually when trying to leave work! on a Friday!!!) I had to put it on charge over night every Sunday.

What I did not realise is that there is (was) an amplifier under the drivers seat, the power for this was controlled by the old head unit. Without the correct signal, the amp defaulted to ON when the car was ignition off and locked up. It took me many hours over a three month period and 1 new battery before I worked out that the current draw was due to this amp and not as I thought due to the only things I thought would be on (alarm and clock).

the amp is now removed and I have 2 passive crossovers in it's place so all is good again

Maurice will put me right but I think you can rig up an amp meter across the battery terminals and check that there is only a minimal current draw (less than 1 amp I think) anything more than that, you can pull individual fuses until it drops. This at least gives you a clue on what it might be as you know which circuit is under load.
 
ORIGINAL: harborp


Maurice will put me right but I think you can rig up an amp meter across the battery terminals and check that there is only a minimal current draw (less than 1 amp I think) anything more than that, you can pull individual fuses until it drops. This at least gives you a clue on what it might be as you know which circuit is under load.
Click to expand...
I really don't think it is a good idea to connect an ammeter across the battery terminals.... [:-]

Regards

Bob
 
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