steveoz32
New member
Somewhat of a tricky job, but if you are used to standing on your head and fidling around in tight spots then it's not all that bad!
I did this on axel stands, and it took me around 45 minutes from start to finish, including getting the car in the air and the wheel off and all back together.
First was to remove the old perished bellow, ideally you want to use lockable hose clamp pliers with a cable for easy access, but I used angled (aprox 30 degree) long needle nose pliers which just required a bit more work with my hands (those spring clamps are VERY strong).
A few pics:
The corrigated pipe to the left of the connector, I removed the variocam connector and moved out of the way a little so it wouldn't get damaged in the process.
It was a little hard to take a picture while removing the clips (i didn't have enough hands!). The clips require a bit of force to push together and release them, but I positioned the pliers on the edges of the clamp, squeezed hard to put them totally together and release it, and then pulled the pipe off of the AOS with my other hand.
Once the top was pulled off, I then pinched the bottom clamp together to release it and lifted the clamp upwards. The bellow was stuck on the cylinder block, so I needed to gently pry with a flatblade.
The bellow removed:
Old bellow:
New:
New vs old:
I then positioned a new stainless jubilee clamp on the top of the new bellow, it was wound out and loose at the time to allow the bellow to be pushed onto the bottom of the AOS. I then tightened slightly to hold it on. The next stage was putting an unwound jubliee clamp over the bottom of the pipe (whilst bending it outward away from the bottom) and then manipulating the bottom of the bellow over the pipe on the block. This was a little tricky, in that I needed to push my finger through the space in the middle and stretch it around the bottom pipe from the back forwards, it's a little hard to explain..
As you can see, I managed to tigten with a very large and long flat blade:
Completed and vanos connector back on:
There we go, oil pressure seems to have increase slightly from 1-1.5 to around 2 on tick over, at throttle it's roughly the same.
The bellow cost aprox £10 from an OPC.
Cheers,
Steve
*edit, I clearly meant Variocam not vanos on the last picture
going back to my bmw days there....*
I did this on axel stands, and it took me around 45 minutes from start to finish, including getting the car in the air and the wheel off and all back together.
First was to remove the old perished bellow, ideally you want to use lockable hose clamp pliers with a cable for easy access, but I used angled (aprox 30 degree) long needle nose pliers which just required a bit more work with my hands (those spring clamps are VERY strong).
A few pics:
The corrigated pipe to the left of the connector, I removed the variocam connector and moved out of the way a little so it wouldn't get damaged in the process.
It was a little hard to take a picture while removing the clips (i didn't have enough hands!). The clips require a bit of force to push together and release them, but I positioned the pliers on the edges of the clamp, squeezed hard to put them totally together and release it, and then pulled the pipe off of the AOS with my other hand.
Once the top was pulled off, I then pinched the bottom clamp together to release it and lifted the clamp upwards. The bellow was stuck on the cylinder block, so I needed to gently pry with a flatblade.
The bellow removed:
Old bellow:
New:
New vs old:
I then positioned a new stainless jubilee clamp on the top of the new bellow, it was wound out and loose at the time to allow the bellow to be pushed onto the bottom of the AOS. I then tightened slightly to hold it on. The next stage was putting an unwound jubliee clamp over the bottom of the pipe (whilst bending it outward away from the bottom) and then manipulating the bottom of the bellow over the pipe on the block. This was a little tricky, in that I needed to push my finger through the space in the middle and stretch it around the bottom pipe from the back forwards, it's a little hard to explain..
As you can see, I managed to tigten with a very large and long flat blade:
Completed and vanos connector back on:
There we go, oil pressure seems to have increase slightly from 1-1.5 to around 2 on tick over, at throttle it's roughly the same.
The bellow cost aprox £10 from an OPC.
Cheers,
Steve
*edit, I clearly meant Variocam not vanos on the last picture
going back to my bmw days there....*
