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replacement body panels

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Hi all. anyone out there know where I can get hold of a set of fiberglass front wings for a '80 924. Mine need replacing and I thought fiberglass might save a bit of weight. I thought about putting 944 wings on but not sure if they would go straight on (or where to get them) and wether or not they would look strange without changing the back ones to the wider 944 ones too. Also thought of body kits (carrera gt etc ) as the body work needs a bit of work so ideal time to do it but not sure where to look or what would look best. Any one got any pics of converted/kitted 924's?
New to the porsche world and dont have big wads of cash to throw at it so any advice would be welcome. Also on a different note are there any induction kits available for the 924?
 
Sit down then try this link for a 924 carerra gt body kit. http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/924body_styling.html[&:]

The classic enlarged throttle body and K&N filter optimises standard 924 breathing, and there are different cams available. One website I surfed was webcams in the usa.

How do you fancy a 924 that's quicker than a vectra 2.5?:ROFLMAO:
My old lux was, but in fairness, only by the skin of its teeth.
It had a gasflowed head with matched ports and a different cam. Rusty as bug..ry, but damn fast. On a track day (yeah right) [;)]it could see 138 on the speedo on level ground. In association with the enlarged throttle body I would expect that to nudge 140, but I never did find the inclination to fit one to it.
Judging from the number of victorious traffic light grand prix I participated in I would have put the 0-60 time at around 8 seconds.

Cams, if you go that route need a bit of setting up, as the most common way of achieving more lift is to grind the heel of the cam lobe back, effectivly taking the zero lift point further away from the toe of the cam, and allowing some (not very much) latitude with valve overlap. Once that is done you need to fit the thickest tappet adjusting screws available then set the clearances, and sometimes even that is not enough and shims need to be fitted over the valve stem under the bucket. I was once told that Bert Gear was able to supply these shims, and of course Berts contact details are in porsche post.

It is interesting to note here that according to the Haynes manuals, on the N/A golf the inlet valve opens at something like 44 deg before tdc, but on the injected golf its much less, I think 0 deg before. On the 924 the cam lift and duration is the same as the high compression wa coded audi 2.0 litre engine on carburettors 47 deg before , from memory, so I have a personal belief that cam lift and duration were never fully developed.
 
Thanx for the reply, I see what you mean about sitting down when checking out the carrera body kit! Costs more than I paid for the car!!
The car already has the larger throttle body fitted and I will be getting a k&n filter when I get home (currently working abroad). Its interesting you should recoment getting the head flowed and ported as I have checked out a few websites (mainly U.S sites) and most of them seem to recomend this as the only real way to unleash any real power gains from the 924 (along with different cams). Could you give me an idea how much I would be looking at to get this type of head work done and for a new cam.And can you recoment a place to get a new cam from? Also how does the different cam affect driveability at low revs?
 
If you go with a new cam remember that you will need to fit new tappets. These are the buckets that run directly under the cam, and anecdotal evidence suggets not using pattern parts here. I know of a couple of people who used pattern folowers that shattered at high revs locking the cam solid and filling the sump with nice sharp shards of hardened steel. The Porsche ones are sit down expensive, but there again none of mine ever let go. I did my cylinder-head in 1992 and prices then were;
Cam, from PMC, £235. Don't see PMC about much now.
Tappet
Porsche sourced £38+ vat per bucket
Audi sourced £52+vat per bucket.
Pattern part £19+vat.
You pays your money and takes your choice.

I used to use 6,200 as a rev limit. It would wind up to 5,700 quite quickly, taper off a bit, reach 5,900 and then go on to the maximum without straining. The best acceleration I ever achieved was using 5,600, 5,800, 5,600, and 5,600 as change up points. You need the extra between second and third because of the biger step up in ratios between them, other wise it used to bog down a bit until it got 'on the cam'
As an indicator of what to expect, in a direct comparison between my 924 and my 944s, tested between two fixed points, the 944s would show an indicated 110mph, and the 924 would indicate 107. I reckoned about 140 bhp. I never had a problem with drivabilty with the cam I used. Many a Golf gti and Vauxhall astra found out to their cost how effective a set up it was.
I worked for a company called Autocavan, many many years ago, (in the late seventies) and we specialised in tuning VW engines. I learned all my skills there so I did all the flowing work myself. I have absolutely no idea how much this would cost, and I cant remember off hand how long it took me. However, I still do have the cylinder head with the cam in it, but it has now done 100,000 miles, so it could do with new stem seals. You might want to get in touch with Bert Gear, he is most likely going to have a contact or two in that area.

There have been so many books writen on modifying heads that you ought be able to do it yourself, much cheaper, if you want to work to the lowest budget. We are not racing, hence not looking for perfection, so don't worry about getting the flow rates for each cylinder to match exactly. You will need some internal callipers, and invest in a good quality electric die grinder, and only use tungsten carbide cutters. Use copious quantities of parafin as a coolant, which also helps to stop the cutter clogging with aluminium swarf. Obviously the head needs to be off the block. Additionally, it is also much easier to do with the guides removed, and changing them is absolute childs play.

The easiest thing to do to start with is match the ports.
First spray WD 40 lightly into the waterways around the ports. If this starts to smoke, stop, you is getting mighty thin.
INLET
Put the gasket(s)on to the port-face on the head and mark the outline with a felt-tip pen or other marking method. Remove material to this outline and blend in the profile. Do the same on the mainfold.
EXHAUST
Do the same, but it's a bit more laborious as the manifold is cast iron. It is interesting to note that the 924 already has a cast-iron 4 into 2 (inners and outers) exhaust manifold which aids breathing, but there is a whopping great lug inside it which can be removed.

Anyway in the interests of keeping this post short I am going to stop there. You have a number of options open to you, so you need to choose which one is best for you. As it stands I might take £100 for the head, worth it for the cam alone which is in good condition having been run on synthetic oil all the time, but you will definitely need the shims for the tappet clearances as, again, on a limiterd budget I didn't fit them, and I would recommend new guides and springs for the best perfomance, although it will bolt straight on and run. It will be a bit tappety, and you will lose some of the extra lift and hence performance because of the excessive valve clearances. When I rebuilt the head the only things that weren't renewed were the vavle-spring seat thrust-races, and the guides, although renewed, are still standard size, but as I have already mentioned it has 100,000 miles on it now. With two 924 turbos I don't need the head. If I don't sell it then I will fit it to my aging 924 lux before I sell that later in the year.
 
Thanx again for all the info. I would definatly be interested in buying the head of you for the aformentioned price! I am currently working away in Nigeria but will be back in the country in 3 weeks. I will send you an email to discuss further.
 

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