mcgc0
PCGB Member
Steve might have mentioned in some thread elsewhere, but starting to think I might be better off getting rid of the old alloy (closed) wheel nuts for an alternative.
Been swapping the rear wheels over on the 968 and replacing with another set of 964 rears that I have both share the same Cup 2 sizes (9J x 17). Different offsets generally but effectively making the 968 front track slightly wider with no fit issues. Tracked and performed perfectly. Actually makes the overall stance of the 968 much more 'purposeful' imho.
Anyway, did the fronts this weekend (again same size wheels (7.5J x 17). I took some dimension measurements for keeping and observed the following - (rears not measured yet):
964 and 968 wheel inside hub flange (mounting pad if in the US) to inside rim = 152mm and 170mm respectively. This, the result of different offsets. More interestingly, the (genuine) 968 Cup 2's have an effective stud/bolt hole depth or flange thickness of 15mm whereas the 964's only have 10mm. When now factoring in the wheel hub stud length (30mm) and then the alloy wheel nut internal dims (drilled depth 30mm | thread depth 25mm) it gives a theoretical 20mm thread use for the 964. I'm convinced though that the first 5mm thread of a well used alloy nut isn't much good. 15mm of stud thread then on 5 bolts keeping the wheel on with full on braking and steering into a high gear bend doesn't fill me with too much confidence. Even worse if I were to stick to the original 968 wheels with a hole depth of 15mm leaving just 10mm for effective nut thread. I'm sure it's all fine for normal road use I guess.
Long story, but the short question being what are the track enthusiasts doing - binning the alloy nuts for something else? Greg mentioned Steve that you might have arrived at the same conclusion a while back - what was the end result?
Been swapping the rear wheels over on the 968 and replacing with another set of 964 rears that I have both share the same Cup 2 sizes (9J x 17). Different offsets generally but effectively making the 968 front track slightly wider with no fit issues. Tracked and performed perfectly. Actually makes the overall stance of the 968 much more 'purposeful' imho.
Anyway, did the fronts this weekend (again same size wheels (7.5J x 17). I took some dimension measurements for keeping and observed the following - (rears not measured yet):
964 and 968 wheel inside hub flange (mounting pad if in the US) to inside rim = 152mm and 170mm respectively. This, the result of different offsets. More interestingly, the (genuine) 968 Cup 2's have an effective stud/bolt hole depth or flange thickness of 15mm whereas the 964's only have 10mm. When now factoring in the wheel hub stud length (30mm) and then the alloy wheel nut internal dims (drilled depth 30mm | thread depth 25mm) it gives a theoretical 20mm thread use for the 964. I'm convinced though that the first 5mm thread of a well used alloy nut isn't much good. 15mm of stud thread then on 5 bolts keeping the wheel on with full on braking and steering into a high gear bend doesn't fill me with too much confidence. Even worse if I were to stick to the original 968 wheels with a hole depth of 15mm leaving just 10mm for effective nut thread. I'm sure it's all fine for normal road use I guess.
Long story, but the short question being what are the track enthusiasts doing - binning the alloy nuts for something else? Greg mentioned Steve that you might have arrived at the same conclusion a while back - what was the end result?
] ) and being steel they should react in the same way as the studs when subjected to the heat generated on track, therefore they stay tight. The downside is that they don't look pretty like aluminum ones as they soon look a bit rusty.
