Respray

[sawood12]

I've discovered the first signs of rust on my 944. There are signs of flakey paint on the passenger side wheel arch edges where they intersect the sill but the most worrying thing is a 'soft spot' about the size of a 50p in the middle of the mottled area at the bottom of the passenger side wing. I assume this mottled area is some protection that is stuck to the wing before painting so the soft spot could be/probably is rust coming up behind this stuck on protection.

I've decided to get the whole of the lower sill of the car sprayed upto the border of the mottled area. Anybody any advice to offer me of what to ask for or look out for when I start trawling the local bodyshops for quotes? Being galvanised are these cars treated like any other or are there any special treatments or paints that should be used?

Once fixed I think i'm going to accellarate plans to fit the sill covers. At 18yrs old I think I might be pushing the edge of galvanised protection and a physical barrier might help the longevity of exposed areas like sills.
Cheers.

 

[John Maddox]

This happened to mine last year and is indeed rust coming through from inside the sill and is most distressing to say the least.

When I did the proverbial screwdriver test it, of course, went straight through.

I tackled mine myself and cut out the rust ( quite a small amount really) and filled it after ensuring all major rust removed. Then applied the correct rubberised crinkle finish (Wurth I think it was called - from Frost Supplies) which has the added advantage of filling imperfections. Then I srayed it from an aerosol - my wife say's she cannot see the repair so it's probably good enough and rust hasn't re-occured yet.

I then took the plastic vents of the door and door frame carefully so I could see the enclosed sections. The door was fine but looking back towards my repair was not a pretty sight !! Rust appeared to be all along the lower sills towards the wheel arch. I injected rust killing wax towards the wheelarch on a warm day so it flowed well.

Then I noticed a few tiny bubbly bits along the sill towards the front. You can gain access to this part of the sill by removing plastic bungs under the inner sill carpet. It looked reasonable in there so I injected more rust killer wax and did the whole process again on the other side. Mind you don't block drain holes if you do this.

Sorry this is a long post - having done all this I have stopped worrying about it and I hope I have slowed the tin worm to a crawl !!

Let us know how you get on.

Regards

 

[sawood12]

Thanks for advice John. I'll certainly be putting the Waxoil to good use as you have suggested. I'm not sure I have the courage or the skills to tackle the current rust though. All my previous attempts at tackling bodywork have ended in disaster unfortunately in this case the rest of the car is in immaculate nick. I've had a quote to have the job done at a body shop where they remove all affected area and weld in a fresh plate and respray wing. It wasn't as expensive than I thought it would be, so I might go for the proffessional job. It'll be interesting to see how they blend the wing in with my Guards Pink!

 

[Guest]

I've carried out quite a few home restoration jobs on bodywork and it's very important to get the Cavity wax injected in those box sections as soon as the new metal is weldeed in, under high pressure.
It's not the cheapest tool to buy but I would suggest getting a small air compressor. If you inject it in at about 7-8 bar with an 'oil gun' (cheap) it'll create a wax vapour which should coat all surfaces. In my opinion this is better as you don't need a thick coating anyway.
(You can also use the oil gun for the rubberised stone chip treatment along the sills, it gives it a nice rippled finish).
I would encourage all owners of older cars to use Cavity wax as a preventitive treatment, whether there are signs of rust and whether the car is supposed to be galvanised or not.

Simon

 

[Guest]

This bobbly rubbery bit is something I was going to look into as in the near future I need to sort out some bits. So, if anyone knows ... Might give Wurth a call.

 

[chrisr]

Ive also noticed a few little area's at the bottom of both wings that appear to be the first signs of rust and will also be interested to see how the bodyshop will match ' Guards Pink ' - a problem I need to tackle as its only going to get worse with the weather around us .

 

[Guest]

I think I have seen this in Halfords also HERE

 

[Guest]

Of course THIS would solve it.

 

[Guest]

While I was in a car shop today, there was the rubber product made by Plastic Padding. The guy in the shop said that it was the 'stuff', available in white, grey and black and can be painted over. On the can it said it would leave an orange peel texture. I agree with what Tony said on the other thread about how it can sometimes look more textured than it actually is.

 

[Guest]

Hi there

This was a seriously useful thread as I am having the same problems at the moment,

What is the best thing to remove the rubberised boobly stuff? I am expecting to find a little rust, and therefore being a Galvanised body, are there any fillers, primers that I should avoid, or that are recomended?

I am also concerned that I won't be able to match the paint myself, due to being Guards Red and Oxidising paint, I have also had trouble in matching "off the shelve sprays" with other cars therefore, what brand of paint is recomended, and where can I get it from?

The most areas of the rubberised stuff is actually ok, therefore can I get away with just removing the bits which are dodgy? or is it best to strip the whole lot down and start again?

Can the rubberised stuff be used without being painted straight away in order to get a professional respray?

Sorry for the tons of questions, but this is going to be my spring project!

Kind regards
Chris

 

[Guest]

LOL! Erm.... Yes I did not have my glasses on when writting that, also you know what they say about men and their thoughts, I believe it is every seven minutes on average!

 

[Guest]

Yes, the Wurth stuff looks like the same sort of stuff I have used which is Terotex made by Teroson I think.
I used to buy cans which attach to the oil gun and spray it on using a compressor which gives a nice finish, but the aerosol probably does the job well enough.
I wouldn't leave the stone guard on with nothing covering it, and use the car, as like primer it's possibly porous and therefore a gloss paint is required to seal moisture out.
In my opinion, if it's a project car I would strip the lot off, maybe with a plastic scraper so you don't damage the zinc coating, and give it a whole new coat otherwise it would be difficult to blend patches in.
Red paint is notoriously difficult to match (apparently it's the only colour with a natural pigment). I don't think any particular type or brand of paint will make it any easier. Respraying the whole car is probably the only way to overcome it but it depends how far you want to go as it's not cheap.
Good Luck


Simon

 

[John Maddox]

Bubbling under the Wurth rubberised coating is well worth (no pun intended!) investigating - especially at the base of the front wing wheelarch where there is a mud trap on the S2/Turbo models caused by the lower black plastic sill finisher. This must be removed to fully investigate.

Wurth bubbling may just be water penetrating underneath as the coating deteriorates if you catch it early. If you leave it, it will defiately rust through as in the winter the water that gets in there is nealy always a salt solution which the galvanising can only hold off so long.

Don't ignore bubbling Wurth but investigate carefully as small holes suddenly become big ones !!

I parked close to an S2 yesterday which didn't look as if it had ever been cleaned in its entire life - the rust on that one would have given you all nightmares and was quite unbelievable.

John M

 

[danmason]

I parked close to an S2 yesterday which didn't look as if it had ever been cleaned in its entire life - the rust on that one would have given you all nightmares and was quite unbelievable.

[][]

That must be one abused motor... I have to say the only rust issue I've ever seen on an S2 or Turbo is the small patch of rust that we're talking about on the wing (my Turbo's in the bodyshop at this very moment having it sorted - still undecided on the 968 sill covers [8|]). Still, here in the rarefied world of PCGB I tend only to be around nice Porsches []

 

[John Maddox]

Dan

Can you post details about the sill covers if you have any as I am interested in considering some. Do 968 covers fit well and are they expensive ?

I suppose our cars are in great shape when you consider there age, it's such a shame when they begin to show the first signs of tinworm.

Thanks

 

[sawood12]

John,
I've also been considering 968 sills as i've said in previous similar threads. Although i've seen them fitted to some pretty highly modified 944's and they look good i've yet to see them fitted to a standard 944 and i've got my reservations as to how good they'll look. I'm also not too keen on the box type sills that seem to come up on eBay fairly often since they stick out too far. The best ones i've seen are from Essential Styling and they fit fairly close to the sill so don't stick out and cover the vulnerable wheel arch/sill corners and the sides of the sill. These attach by a commonly used bodyshop glue with self tapping screw on the inside of the wheel arch and under the sill. You can also fill any small cavity between the covers and sill with waxoil to make sure nothing gets in. The beauty of these are that at a later date you could take them off and restore the car back to standard. I've not yet plucked up the courage to take the plunge but now i've got signs of rust in the bottom wing area i'm certainly now considering.

 

[John Maddox]

Thanks Scott - very helpful. I'll look at some websites.