Menu toggle

Revs drop..any ideas?

graham tompkins

New member
I am having a rev drop problem, basically what is happening is that when dipping the clutch to change down the revs drop down below the idle setting and then blips back. Sometimes it gets close to stalling.
Same thing happens when stationary, rev the engine and it drops to about 6-700 for a second and then settles at 900.
I have checked for induction leaks and can't find any, and also removed the IVC which seems to be clean and working.
Car was serviced less than 1000 miles ago.
Any ideas will be appreciated......(Amo, chance to get your own back)
regards
Graham
89 3.2 Targa SE
 
Change gear faster so the revs don't drop as much??? [;)]

Sorry, I don't know the answer, but I think at least a part of the symptom is common to all 3.2s. The fuel is totally shut-off when the throttle is released, so most of them (AFAIK) will commonly or at least intermitantly dip a little below idle when you come off the throttle to change gear or come to a halt only to recover just before stalling. I don't know which part/module it is that controls this function - ICV or otherwise.

Totally un-asked for advice, but you might practice matching revs on downchanges - heel-n-toe - and even upchanges - a tiny blip so the revs don't drop too far. IMHO, these are skills that any keen driver should muster. The satisfaction payback from a perfect heel-n-toe downchange, even at 30mph in traffic, is well worth the effort it takes to learn it. Its just another thing to enjoy about these cars and another thing to take satisfaction in mastering. Only a tiny minority of drivers can heel-n-toe, so you can take some smug satisfaction in belonging to an elite motoring club - just don't try it out as an excuse for speeding! Its also good for the gearbox and good practice for the track. This still leaves you with a problem when coming to a halt but should help in general driving.

HTH
Richard
 
There is a function in the DME software called "idle ramp". It detects the speed of the engine, and when it drops below a certain RPM, (not idle, but higher) then it raises the RPM for a short while to bring you into idle speed smoothly It does this sending a control signal to the Idle control valve. It is a fixed parameter in the code.

So, knowing that, if your idle is hesitating, you have to look at number of factors:-

Temperature sensor earthing
Inlet temp output within the AFM
Marker pulse output to the DME
Air leak - this could be anywhere !
Clogged / faulty injector

In other words, it could be 1 or a combination of all of the above ! [:(]

There is a cure. By bridging apporpriate terminals on the DME input block you can use the idle adjustment screw

Idle speed on the 3.2 should IRO 880rpm when warm, but all this leads to one simple remedy. If you do not ahve the tools and equipment, I would book it into someone that has the experience and time to solve.

Good luck

Just remembered - I am running a Steve Wong chip, and I had him optimise this setting on my car. I didn't realise, but the first chip he sent me had a setting that assumed a certain amount of tolerance build-up, so he automatically programmed a slightly higher idle ramp setting. I noticed it immediately and asked him to turn it down a bit. The result ? When I dip the clutch, I drop straight into the correct idle speed.
 
I know it's a different car but I had exactly the same symptoms on my 944. I did all the usual checks as you have but it turned out to be that my engine was running really really lean. Unfortunately the idle control screw had totally siezed in my Air Flow Meter so I needed a new one, but it's been running fine and purring like Ertha Kitt once that was replaced and my mixture reset.
It might be something completely different but it's worth checking out just in case.
 
I know it's a different car but I had exactly the same symptoms on my 944.


Very similar (almost identical in fact) fuel injection system as the Carrera 3.2, so your advice might be very solid.
 
ORIGINAL: sihinch

Richard,

any tips for heel-and-toe changing?

Simon

Sure, the basics are that you brake with the toe of your right foot and blip the accelerator with the heel of the right foot when changing down. Accordingly, you need to twist your foot to a kind of uncomfortable angle - envisage a rectangular box with your toes at top left corner and heel at bottom right corner with the foot creating a diagonal between the two.

First tip is to practice doing it without any braking. Just cruise in say 4th and then downchange to third with a blip of throttle in the middle. Left foot can stay on the clutch as we are not trying to double declutch here. Keep doing this until you are comfortable matching the revs on all downchanges, ie., your downchange is smooth and seemless because you have - with your well timed blip - brought the engine revs up to precisely the required level to engage the lower gear without the revs coming up or down any further. The size of the blip depends a little on which downchange you are doing ie., 5 to 4 needs a little blip whereas 3 to 2 needs a bigger one as the gear ratios are further apart, and also the speed of your change.

Second tip is to practice the braking without the blip. Just practice braking with your toes only - or really the ball of your foot and your toes.

Third tip is to try a dry run or three while not moving. In this instance forget about the clutch and gears and just press on the brake pedal while stationary and role your heel off the brake and use it to blip the accelerator. Try getting a constant blip from say idle to 3500rpm. For normal driving on the road this is not a million miles from the size of the blip you are aiming for. On the track when you are changing into the next gear at say 6500rpm you need to give it more of a bootful. You are trying to develop sensitivity and muscle memory for a new physical action. To start with you have to concentrate real hard but later it becomes unconscious. Remember the first time you drove a manual car and let the clutch out to fast? Well you soon got the hang of that.

Fourth tip is to try it one gear at a time on a nice straight - and relatively deserted - road. Try 4 to 3 first. Its a straight shot and is perhaps the easiest to get right. Take it easy. Just try say 2000rpm in 4th and very gentle braking then downshift to 3rd with a little blip on the way. The more confident you get, the harder you can brake and the higher rev changes become easier with your growing precision.

Its really just a case of breaking (no pun intended) it down into steps, practicing a bit, then giving it a try. Be prepared to brake too hard the first time as you are trying to balance a small movement on the brake with a larger movement on the throttle all through the one foot. Do not take a passenger as they will laugh at you (bad for confidence) or swear at you when you try to launch them through the windsheild (bad for relationship with passenger).

As you get more used to it you may find you can do it with your foot more upright and less diagonal by just rolling the side of the foot off the brake pedal. You may also find the pedals are at the "wrong" height - but they are adjustable in a 911, so you can fix that. What works on the road often isn't so good at the track. My brake pedal is a little high on the road but just about right on the track where I am braking much harder and the pedal sinks a little lower.

Good luck - its fun learning a new skill.
RB
 
Can do this thanks, size 11 feet help....ok know I have confessed to having an XR3i...but I also had a Mini Cooper with a knackered gearbox, and so you learn by experience.
See my next post !!!!!!!!!! gonna call it Bas***d!
Graham
 
You may also find the pedals are at the "wrong" height - but they are adjustable in a 911, so you can fix that.

I understood that a quick work-around to this, was to bolt on a 2nd throttle pedal straight on top of the original one. I think Mel has this on his 964 Cup car.

Rgds

S
 
The most likely cause of 3.2 Carrera's stalling apart from poor clutch control is the Air Flow Sensor. These rather crude devices can sometimes be coaxed back to life by some expert cleaning but as sure as the sun will rise eventually they just give up. I know they are f***ing expensive, I've had to pay for one, so I wish you luck.
 
I'm very happy with the results (do i win £10 now??[:D])


Nice one

Any chance we might turn this into a running report for your CS ? Always looking for articles and information Shirish.

If yes, perhaps we could have a conversation off line ?

RGDS


 
CS'ers active on this forum

Well, from my certain knowledge, a few CS owners "lurk" and choose not to post. Others are hyper-busy, but the over whelming majority just don't "do" forums.

Of course, there are those with CS's that chose not to promote that fact...(you know who you are) [;)]

Anyhow, any help / wisdom offered is well recieved I'm sure !



 

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Back
Top