Rubbing Brakes
- Thread starter oliver
- Start date
Hello Cayman owners. Can you help?
I've a brake problem. When braking, on every wheel revolution, my pads seem to hit a rough patch, causing vibration and judder through the pedal. In the winter I left the car parked with the handbrake on for five weeks and it began after that. I thought a little driving would correct the problem (I cover very low mileage), but it is still there.
What could be causing it? I understand that discs are unlikely to warp, so perhaps some pad material transferred to the disc when it was standing with the handbrake on and now the pads hit the patch on every revolution? Something else? What would be the simplest (and cheapest) way of getting the brakes back to normal?
Thanks!
I've a brake problem. When braking, on every wheel revolution, my pads seem to hit a rough patch, causing vibration and judder through the pedal. In the winter I left the car parked with the handbrake on for five weeks and it began after that. I thought a little driving would correct the problem (I cover very low mileage), but it is still there.
What could be causing it? I understand that discs are unlikely to warp, so perhaps some pad material transferred to the disc when it was standing with the handbrake on and now the pads hit the patch on every revolution? Something else? What would be the simplest (and cheapest) way of getting the brakes back to normal?
Thanks!
Just to say that the handbrake is separate from the rear disc brakes with separate handbrake shoes operating inside the bells of the discs, so your problem most probably lies elsewhere.
As Oliver has said, check the brake discs for corrosion and see if some heavy braking alleviates the problem. Failing that, you'll probably be into disc and pad replacement or skimming.
Note that brake judder can also be caused by wear in suspension components.
Jeff
As Oliver has said, check the brake discs for corrosion and see if some heavy braking alleviates the problem. Failing that, you'll probably be into disc and pad replacement or skimming.
Note that brake judder can also be caused by wear in suspension components.
Jeff
Brian_Innes
Member
Mr D is right about the 100mph big stops. Best way to keep your brakes in tip-top order. Track day cars rarely have the problem you describe.
If you are not a track day owner, find a clear stretch of straight road with no junctions, and no traffic behind or coming the other way, and do 5 or 6 big stops from 60 - 70mph.
You'll easily know when you have put enough heat into the brakes when you can smell them! Step hard enough on the pedal to get the ABS pulsing.
Rear brakes are so lightly used on normal road driving that corrosion on the inner disc surfaces is a common problem. A regular brake work-out is good for the discs.
Finally, not a good idea to crank on the handbrake when the car is parked in the garage. Put it in gear, of if it's PDK "P". Your car isn't going roll away.
Brian
If you are not a track day owner, find a clear stretch of straight road with no junctions, and no traffic behind or coming the other way, and do 5 or 6 big stops from 60 - 70mph.
You'll easily know when you have put enough heat into the brakes when you can smell them! Step hard enough on the pedal to get the ABS pulsing.
Rear brakes are so lightly used on normal road driving that corrosion on the inner disc surfaces is a common problem. A regular brake work-out is good for the discs.
Finally, not a good idea to crank on the handbrake when the car is parked in the garage. Put it in gear, of if it's PDK "P". Your car isn't going roll away.
Brian
All good advise above and hard braking could well sort it for you, as stated corrosion on the inner face of the rear discs is particularly common and even occasionally the front discs, seizure of pistons is not unknown. ABS should stop any locking up under braking.
It is possible for some handbrake shoe material to have stuck to the brake drum or to have caused a patch of contamination in the drum even to have taken some surface material off, usually dependant on moisture but this shouldn't be apparent when using the footbrake it just may be noticed more under braking but be there at other times, it depends on how much clearance the drum brakes have.
Skimming of discs is one option if they have sufficient material, removing the drums/discs and inspecting/cleaning the drums and shoes, rear disc face may well improve things over the braking as a last resort short of replacing discs and pads etc, discs may not be too expensive to replace but as you don't say what model you have I suspect that with low mileage it is a weekend car and may not be under warranty in which case non-OEM discs and pads are a less expensive option and not all are bad, SEBRO are said to be as OEM, Textar Pads likewise but bot are cheaper than Porsche but some on here will have found alternatives they prefer.
It is possible for some handbrake shoe material to have stuck to the brake drum or to have caused a patch of contamination in the drum even to have taken some surface material off, usually dependant on moisture but this shouldn't be apparent when using the footbrake it just may be noticed more under braking but be there at other times, it depends on how much clearance the drum brakes have.
Skimming of discs is one option if they have sufficient material, removing the drums/discs and inspecting/cleaning the drums and shoes, rear disc face may well improve things over the braking as a last resort short of replacing discs and pads etc, discs may not be too expensive to replace but as you don't say what model you have I suspect that with low mileage it is a weekend car and may not be under warranty in which case non-OEM discs and pads are a less expensive option and not all are bad, SEBRO are said to be as OEM, Textar Pads likewise but bot are cheaper than Porsche but some on here will have found alternatives they prefer.
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