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rust blister

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ringworm24

New member
I have a small blister just above the rear break light... sounds a silly question but what should I do? How much would it take to get repaired? I have 964 1990 with original red paint work Apart from that the paint work is in great condition.
Many thanks
 
if it is small and surface rust only, it will only a few hundred quid.

Take it to a bodywork specialist for a proper opinion.

Have you had a really good look around the rear wings, headlights, scuttle panel, below the rear windscreen etc for more rust. They tend to go in these places too.
 
I now have some experience in this area [:)]

On my car I found the rear bumper fixings were one cause of rust. There are 3 along each rear wing. There is also a dirt / mud trap around the light cluster on both sides. I've had great fun getting in / around here with my toothbrush. I would definitely recommend taking a wheel of and getting inside to do a proper inspection. If you just address the outside you may not be tackling the source of the problem.

If you look at some of my previous posts, you'll see I used a non-porous formula called POR-15. Only time will tell, but it seems OK.
 

ORIGINAL: C2dweller

If you look at some of my previous posts, you'll see I used a non-porous formula called POR-15. Only time will tell, but it seems OK.
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I've also been looking into this POR-15 and discovered it comes in lots of different colours. Now would it be dumb of me to ask why would you want rust treatment paint in a particular colour? or is this stuff essentially an up-market Hammerite paint? Do you need to be completely back to bare metal before applying POR-15?

Jenolite is also pretty good. A gel-liquid like substance that literally converts oxidising metal into solid... err, metal(?) through chemical reaction. Great for using on non-exposed areas such as under a wheel arch, but you do have to prime and paint once it's cured. Used to be used by the MOD on their vehicles, but not sure if this is still the case.
 
The main difference (in my mind) is that POR-15 stops rust from 'growing' while the others attempt to kill it. It does this by being non-porous.

It was quite amusing when some got on my hands. I didn't know it was there, like you would with glue, but there is no way it can be removed. Worse still it enclosed the dirt on my hands, causing a few embarrasing days at work waiting for my skin to shed ... yep, gross, I know.
 

ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty

That is a nice job, James! 
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Ditto. I'm impressed.

There's one in Hampshire you can come and have a look at now please.... and you're only a stones throw in Berks[;)]
 

ORIGINAL: C2dweller


It was quite amusing when some got on my hands. I didn't know it was there, like you would with glue, but there is no way it can be removed. Worse still it enclosed the dirt on my hands, causing a few embarrasing days at work waiting for my skin to shed ... yep, gross, I know.
Click to expand...
So the moral of that story is, I must remember to wear nitrile examination gloves when using POR-15.
 
The POR-15 starter kit (which has all the treatments mentioned above) actually comes with gloves. I sadly forgot about them on the second coat [:D]
 
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