Rust protection - waxoyl, dinitrol, bilt-hamber?

[DavidL]

I need to flood my sill cavities when I get the car back. I know waxoyl was used last year when I bought the car but it seems there is quite a lot of option, so what do people prefer?

Is there some sort of lance thing that you can get to get all the way along or do people make their own?

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Bilthamber seems to have the best feedback here, at least. You can get all the way along the sill from the door jamb, remember to keep the drain holes clear.

 

[PSH]

Is this time of year a good time to do this, I was taught to never use an underseal product when there's any possiblity of damp air as you will seal in the damp and thus condem the car. Is this still the case or have today's products got that much better?

Pete

 

[sawood12]

Most products actually repel water so you can apply onto a wet surface and the moisture will be driven out. A guy at work who has classic Jags uses used engine oil, blocks up the drain hole, fills the sill cavity with used engine oil and drive around like a loony for 10 mins with plenty of hard braking, accelerating and side to side steering to make sure the oil swills around and gets in all the nooks and crannies then drains it off. He swears by it.

Any of the products mentioned above will work just fine.

 

[Copperman05]

Personally I would go for the Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 which comes in a BIG can, complete with its own extension tube to push into cavitiies and many approve of its abitilities to do what is asked of it, its not so expensive either, and its British made/designed (if you think thats important). Dinitrol is probably comparable performance wise, but any of them would be better than nothing although I do find waxoyl extremely messy...

Help this helps

Edd

 

[Alpine]

ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty

..........You can get all the way along the sill from the door jamb, remember to keep the drain holes clear.

you can with Dinitrol too, but you need to buy 2 extension hoses and join them together. Insert the hose through the black plastic cill vent in the door pillar.

I used Dinitrol but Bilt Hamber gets very good (maybe better) reviews. Certainly both are better than Waxoil. Do it now, before winter sets in.

 

[mr brightside]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

A guy at work who has classic Jags uses used engine oil, blocks up the drain hole, fills the sill cavity with used engine oil and drive around like a loony for 10 mins with plenty of hard braking, accelerating and side to side steering to make sure the oil swills around and gets in all the nooks and crannies then drains it off. He swears by it.

Agree, i use a 50/50 mixture of mineral oil and cheap grease, mix it up and slop it on nice and thick. It stops any rust in its tracks and can be applied through a shutz airline gun too.

 

[awattam]

I did my sills with waxoil around this time last year. Heated it up a bit to make it thinner and sprayed it using a garden sprayer and home made lance.

Seems to work well but made the car stink as the sills are linked to the air circulation system which goes through the doors and into the car near the rear hatch. The smell took a couple of months to go completely. I should really re-do the stuff round about now, are there any products which don't have a smell?

 

[edh]

My usual contribution to this thread is to say

1. BH product worked for me - it will drip out of drain holes so put some carboard or paper down to catch it, otherwise it will make a mess of your garage / drive

2. There are rubber grommets on the inner sills under the carpets, just ahead of the seats. these give excellent access to the front of the sills

 

[chrishak]

Many years ago there was a trend to brush used engine oil onto underbodies - until the "experts" declared that this was not a good idea due to the byproducts of the combustion process (including acids) contained within the oil. They had a detrimental effect, to say the least. With the cost of cheap unused oil, if you must go down this route, use that.

 

[lali]

just remeber to check that all of yoru grometts are in plavce at the end that you're sparying other wise you'll find stuff spaying out inside the car.
I used the Bilthamber stuff on my track car, I was impressed with how it thickens up... stinks though!!

 

[zcacogp]

Another BH fan here, and have use their Dynax S50 (or whatever it's called) on my S2. (Not, I hasten to add, on the bits that are the subject of my thread of earlier on this week tho'!) Dinitrol seems to do nearly as well in the tests, but is more pricey. Waxoyl is good, but has now been superceded by the likes of Dinitrol and S50. While some people swear by the grease-and-oil method it is very old hat and there are much better ways of doing it ...

ORIGINAL: PSH
Is this time of year a good time to do this, I was taught to never use an underseal product when there's any possiblity of damp air as you will seal in the damp and thus condem the car. Is this still the case or have today's products got that much better?

One of the key things with any rustproofing is to keep the drain and vent holes in the cavity you are treating clear. If you block them up with the anti-rust substance then you will trap water in the void and this WILL rust. You will never get it totally dry, so rust will always form. Use a lance to spray the length fof the cill (or other cavity) but always check those drain holes afterwards; wiggle an old matchstick around in them or something, to make sure they are clear.


Oli.