BAN430G
New member
Dear all,
Since my recent article in Porsche Post about Tectyl treatment carried out on my car, I have recieved a number of emails asking for more details. Below is a comprehensive list of areas to apply the treatment. Some need drilling and/or special hose ends. PR Services carried out this work for me, they charged £510.
Areas for Waxing 912/early-911:
1) At the base of the front panel "" suspension pan/fuel tank support there is a small box section formed by the overlap of the two panels. No need to drill if you use Tectyl ML with the nozzle attachment.
2) Aerosol wax under aluminum chassis plate and wipe off excess. Early cars: run aerosol wax in the thin rubber holding strips of front panel: these hold moisture very well, and being thin, cannot take much rusting. Not possible if the plate is nice and original and still attached to front panel.
3) The inside of the welds that join the sides of the front panel to the front of the inner wings (just a light haze on the surface, particularly the underside of the edges of the front panel). Also inside of the open box that retains the bonnet latch.
4) The box section formed by the suspension pan and fuel tank support (drill: probably a couple of holes to reach the ends). Yes to right-hand but I did manage to get in the left-hand without drilling.
5) Early cars: inside of each battery box. Late cars, battery area inject, also under the battery support "˜flap' that is welded to the base of the front panel.
6) Front chassis legs: about halfway between front of leg and the start of the track rod "˜arch'. Aim lance back as far as possible to get wax right along leg. Also can be applied form inside of boot area.
7) Wax needs to be fed into the cavity behind the track rod arch: this is prime rust area.
8) There is a cavity formed by the "˜normal' inner wing, and an inner wing reinforcement panel at the rear of the luggage bay. On the nearside, this is the cavity that can be seen when the fuel filler pipe is removed. Later cars also have a further reinforcement ahead of the strut towers which can also be treated.
9) A light haze at the bottom of the "˜smugglers' box, particularly around the spot-welded seam at the base. (This is the area below the hinged panel on the front bulkhead).
10) Between frame and skin of luggage bay cover (bonnet) esp. in front and rear cavities.
11) From luggage bay, the underside of the scuttle (panel that the windscreen wiper spindles are mounted): the whole of the underside of this panel, especially the corner areas and the underside of the spot welded screen frame join.
12) From the same area, the A-pillars working right up until wax vapor come out of top, inside car: be careful if headlining is in though, better to drop pressure right down and just stick to bottom 8 inches or so.
13) If headlining out, then wax A-pillars downwards from inside of car. Also worth trying to wax B-pillar if possible (Targa frame if appropriate). Finally the inside of the C-pillar and VERY important, the inside of the rear screen frame: particularly the end 10 inches and as far back up the C-pillar as possible. Again watch headlining if fitted.
14) Under the dashboard: lance back up towards the underside as though aiming for the A-pillars again: just a haze of wax.
15) A surface covering in each footwell (the areas covered by the toe boards). In particular under the pedal box.
16) The cavity formed by the inner sill and the middle sill. You may have to drill three or four holes along here: either right at the top (flat) of the inner sill, or along the base. Some cars are already drilled here. Wax very aggressively using as higher pressure as you dare: particularly working as far forwards, and as far back as possible.
17) Undo one bolt from the upper door hinge and one from the lower and wax inside of the A-post. Ahead of the A-post in the open cavity formed by the A-post and the rear of the front wing closer: particularly at the base of the area which is closed off by the leading edge of the outer sill. Also the underside of the front outer wing especially right at the top.
18) The outer sill cavity: Again, high pressure, aiming as far forwards as possible and as far back. Also wax back up the sill drains on the underside.
19) From under the car, lance up around the inside and outside of the jacking points, especially where the rear outer wing joins to the sill: tricky to get into, this area is critical. Also from same place, try to apply lots of wax to the front side of kidney bowl and rear of base of B-post.
20) Rear of inner sill area starts to curve around to form rear chassis leg (just behind kidney bowl area, underneath). Drill vertically upwards on flat underside portion. Wax forwards and back as far as possible: trying to reach rearwards up the chassis leg and into the rear of the inner sill.
21) All of torque tube (either form ends: ideal, or as a minimum, from the drain tube right in the middle of the car). If torsion bars out of car, vacuum tube out, as there may be rust particles that may be glued/waxed to the inner torsion bar splines. If in doubt, drop pressure down a little.
22) Heater flap box area of inner rear wings: just a surface haze, including heater box mounting threads.
23) Rear chassis legs: there may already be waxing points right at the back of these.
24) Cross-member between rear damper turrets: may have to drill, but particularly try to get wax to each end where it joins the chassis legs.
25) Rear cross-member: may be worth drilling from underside.
26) Between frame and skin of engine lid cover: particularly back down onto the top of the rearmost seam (nearest number plate when down.
27) Rubber seal pressing in top of rear valance (as per early front panel).
28) Inside of the doors
29) In addition all of the underside can have a surface covering.
30) Behind headlight/indicator areas of front wings.
31) Fuel filler area.
32) Whole of rear front wing/inner wing area.
33) Suspension pan and tank underside.
34) Sill "" floor seam all around.
35) Whole of back or B post, kidney bowl, rear window underside, oil tank area (and N/S equivalent), rear light area.
36) All wing wheel arch returns.
37) Inside the rear quarter bumpers.
Since my recent article in Porsche Post about Tectyl treatment carried out on my car, I have recieved a number of emails asking for more details. Below is a comprehensive list of areas to apply the treatment. Some need drilling and/or special hose ends. PR Services carried out this work for me, they charged £510.
Areas for Waxing 912/early-911:
1) At the base of the front panel "" suspension pan/fuel tank support there is a small box section formed by the overlap of the two panels. No need to drill if you use Tectyl ML with the nozzle attachment.
2) Aerosol wax under aluminum chassis plate and wipe off excess. Early cars: run aerosol wax in the thin rubber holding strips of front panel: these hold moisture very well, and being thin, cannot take much rusting. Not possible if the plate is nice and original and still attached to front panel.
3) The inside of the welds that join the sides of the front panel to the front of the inner wings (just a light haze on the surface, particularly the underside of the edges of the front panel). Also inside of the open box that retains the bonnet latch.
4) The box section formed by the suspension pan and fuel tank support (drill: probably a couple of holes to reach the ends). Yes to right-hand but I did manage to get in the left-hand without drilling.
5) Early cars: inside of each battery box. Late cars, battery area inject, also under the battery support "˜flap' that is welded to the base of the front panel.
6) Front chassis legs: about halfway between front of leg and the start of the track rod "˜arch'. Aim lance back as far as possible to get wax right along leg. Also can be applied form inside of boot area.
7) Wax needs to be fed into the cavity behind the track rod arch: this is prime rust area.
8) There is a cavity formed by the "˜normal' inner wing, and an inner wing reinforcement panel at the rear of the luggage bay. On the nearside, this is the cavity that can be seen when the fuel filler pipe is removed. Later cars also have a further reinforcement ahead of the strut towers which can also be treated.
9) A light haze at the bottom of the "˜smugglers' box, particularly around the spot-welded seam at the base. (This is the area below the hinged panel on the front bulkhead).
10) Between frame and skin of luggage bay cover (bonnet) esp. in front and rear cavities.
11) From luggage bay, the underside of the scuttle (panel that the windscreen wiper spindles are mounted): the whole of the underside of this panel, especially the corner areas and the underside of the spot welded screen frame join.
12) From the same area, the A-pillars working right up until wax vapor come out of top, inside car: be careful if headlining is in though, better to drop pressure right down and just stick to bottom 8 inches or so.
13) If headlining out, then wax A-pillars downwards from inside of car. Also worth trying to wax B-pillar if possible (Targa frame if appropriate). Finally the inside of the C-pillar and VERY important, the inside of the rear screen frame: particularly the end 10 inches and as far back up the C-pillar as possible. Again watch headlining if fitted.
14) Under the dashboard: lance back up towards the underside as though aiming for the A-pillars again: just a haze of wax.
15) A surface covering in each footwell (the areas covered by the toe boards). In particular under the pedal box.
16) The cavity formed by the inner sill and the middle sill. You may have to drill three or four holes along here: either right at the top (flat) of the inner sill, or along the base. Some cars are already drilled here. Wax very aggressively using as higher pressure as you dare: particularly working as far forwards, and as far back as possible.
17) Undo one bolt from the upper door hinge and one from the lower and wax inside of the A-post. Ahead of the A-post in the open cavity formed by the A-post and the rear of the front wing closer: particularly at the base of the area which is closed off by the leading edge of the outer sill. Also the underside of the front outer wing especially right at the top.
18) The outer sill cavity: Again, high pressure, aiming as far forwards as possible and as far back. Also wax back up the sill drains on the underside.
19) From under the car, lance up around the inside and outside of the jacking points, especially where the rear outer wing joins to the sill: tricky to get into, this area is critical. Also from same place, try to apply lots of wax to the front side of kidney bowl and rear of base of B-post.
20) Rear of inner sill area starts to curve around to form rear chassis leg (just behind kidney bowl area, underneath). Drill vertically upwards on flat underside portion. Wax forwards and back as far as possible: trying to reach rearwards up the chassis leg and into the rear of the inner sill.
21) All of torque tube (either form ends: ideal, or as a minimum, from the drain tube right in the middle of the car). If torsion bars out of car, vacuum tube out, as there may be rust particles that may be glued/waxed to the inner torsion bar splines. If in doubt, drop pressure down a little.
22) Heater flap box area of inner rear wings: just a surface haze, including heater box mounting threads.
23) Rear chassis legs: there may already be waxing points right at the back of these.
24) Cross-member between rear damper turrets: may have to drill, but particularly try to get wax to each end where it joins the chassis legs.
25) Rear cross-member: may be worth drilling from underside.
26) Between frame and skin of engine lid cover: particularly back down onto the top of the rearmost seam (nearest number plate when down.
27) Rubber seal pressing in top of rear valance (as per early front panel).
28) Inside of the doors
29) In addition all of the underside can have a surface covering.
30) Behind headlight/indicator areas of front wings.
31) Fuel filler area.
32) Whole of rear front wing/inner wing area.
33) Suspension pan and tank underside.
34) Sill "" floor seam all around.
35) Whole of back or B post, kidney bowl, rear window underside, oil tank area (and N/S equivalent), rear light area.
36) All wing wheel arch returns.
37) Inside the rear quarter bumpers.
