Sheared brake caliper bolt

[tref]

Anyone else had this problem? If so what was your solution to removing the caliper?
Background: siezed and sheared brake bleed nipple (the car had been stood for I think eight years - I didnct think getting seven out of eight free was bad!), hence the need to remove the caliper. Unfortunately the lower brake caliper mounting bolt sheared at the head. Even with the pads removed, there is insufficient room to slide the caliper back and off the remains of the bolt. To remove the disc, the caliper needs to come off. Options I can think off are to try and drill it out (not fun on a 12mm steel, probably high tensile, in an aluminium caliper), weld something to it (again, trying to weld steel without damaging the aluminium caliper) or try and cut through it in the wiggle room between the caliper and the hub (very tight on space) I guess I could try and dremel it out. It sheared because it was tight, so not going to think of trying an eazy-out... Obviously preserving the stub of the bolt would likely ease the final removal of the remnants.
Experience and ideas welcomed!

 

[James0]

Which end? Can you remove the whole hub assembly?

 

[Waylander]

Get the whole hub off and take it to an engineering shop

 

[tref]

Front.. Good point. I am an engineer and have a reasonably well equiped workshop so yes, that would make it easier. Thank you!

 

[James0]

If it's a late offset hub and it's toast, let me know I probably have one.

 

[tref]

Many thanks. It is indeed late offset, but hopefully, unless I do something stupid (yeah ok, stupid like shearing the bolt in the first place!), I should be fine. I'll keep it in mind as insurance though!

 

[scam75]

Horse bolted and that.....copper slip your new bolts when sorted!

 

[tref]

I copperslip just about everything... Unfortunately PO, or whoever last had the calipers off, didn't...and this the first time I have had this job.

 

[vitesse]

Unfortunately application of copperslip doesn't allow the bolts to be correctly torqued up when fitting where stretch bolts are specified which is why I think Porsche wouldn't do it.
This also why Porsche specify new bolts when calipers are removed.
Personally ,I would use it & do wherever I deem it appropriate.When I find a bolt so tight ,initially I try to tighten it before attempting to undo it.

Oh the benefit of hindsight!

 

[tref]

I don't think these are stretch bolts though are they? There are certain bolts I don't copperslip as I would rather they seize than fall out. These are one that I have debated in my head, but figue the caliper is pretty much captive by the wheel and disc, so if worst case they did fall out, it will make a horrible noise, do lots of damage, of course braking will he impaired, but not lost. More likely one bolt will be lost first, and it will make a horrible noise! I don't think there is an easy way of applying it, combined with many other commercial reasons, I can understand why Porsche don't.

 

[blade7]

Unfortunately application of copperslip doesn't allow the bolts to be correctly torqued up when fitting where stretch bolts are specified which is why I think Porsche wouldn't do it.
This also why Porsche specify new bolts when calipers are removed.

I've just fitted new genuine pads to my daughters Fiesta (Textar). The Ford kit came with new slider plates and new caliper bolts. The bolts had locking compound already applied.