I am about to change the seals on the sill mouldings, I have been told that on the RH sill because of the oil pipes some clips go brittle and break.Can you say which clips I need to replace. On the attached link is a copy of the parts listing in picture format.Sorry cannot add file its a PDF document tried to save as a txt.
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Sill moulding seal change
- Thread starter kmdavis
- Start date
Dave Wilkinson
New member
Keith,
I've attached a jpg of the relevant section and I suspect - you'll have to forgive me as I don't have these bits on my car!! - that the parts needed are 4 and 15 in the diagram. Part 4 - Support (999.507.373.00) - is £2.24 each and part 15 - plastic nut (999.049.022.40) - is £0.48 each. All prices less your PCGB discount and + VAT.
Regards
Dave
I've attached a jpg of the relevant section and I suspect - you'll have to forgive me as I don't have these bits on my car!! - that the parts needed are 4 and 15 in the diagram. Part 4 - Support (999.507.373.00) - is £2.24 each and part 15 - plastic nut (999.049.022.40) - is £0.48 each. All prices less your PCGB discount and + VAT.
Regards
Dave
vitesse
Active member
This can be a pig of a job-not difficult but fiddly.The "shark fin" is held on by the plastic nuts (item4) that screw onto the threaded clips (item 15),the clips engaging into slots behind the fin.You need a small slim spanner particularly for the oil pipe/thermostat side to get at the plastic nuts-you need both wheels (I found) off on the side you are doing,& it helps to get the car fairly high in the air,giving easy access to the bottom plastic nuts under the car on the main valance.You may need to use vicegrips if the spanner slips(get enough ).You will also need to release the front main undertray fastener as the arrangementsare sandwiched together.
Then I bent a long flat blade screwdriver to approx20 deg and you need a strong ,slippy,non-marking backing pad(I use a piece of plastic cut out of an icecreamtub) so that you can unplip the row of clips that runs along the near top of the side valance-you need to find their positions 1st & slip the screwdriver in down beside them.The crankthen allows you to un-plip them(with care)
You therefore may need the matching plastic sockets that fit in the cill to take the clips.
The drawing in Dave's post doesn't show the clips for the main valance-these also clip into horizontal rails along the valance & plip into the sockets in the cill.
Then I bent a long flat blade screwdriver to approx20 deg and you need a strong ,slippy,non-marking backing pad(I use a piece of plastic cut out of an icecreamtub) so that you can unplip the row of clips that runs along the near top of the side valance-you need to find their positions 1st & slip the screwdriver in down beside them.The crankthen allows you to un-plip them(with care)
You therefore may need the matching plastic sockets that fit in the cill to take the clips.
The drawing in Dave's post doesn't show the clips for the main valance-these also clip into horizontal rails along the valance & plip into the sockets in the cill.
Some good tips Colin.
Knowing where the clips are and best way to disengage them is a huge advantage. Breaking the clips is not a problem, its breaking the thing they are meant to be holding is of greater concern. Generally these clips are stronger that the part they are holding. Let us know how you get on Keith.
Knowing where the clips are and best way to disengage them is a huge advantage. Breaking the clips is not a problem, its breaking the thing they are meant to be holding is of greater concern. Generally these clips are stronger that the part they are holding. Let us know how you get on Keith.
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