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- Thread starter Lewis S2
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yep,,,,nothing like a shiny g/red for todays weather,,,,edh said:That's a lot of work! For 18's i think they look pretty good - maybe the rear is a touch low?
Your second set of pics aren't working
I'm coming round to red 944's (after owning two of them for over 10 years.. [] )
love my dove blue but its not as striking as guards red imo but she is driving great,,,,,jasonp
blade7
Well-known member
scam75 said:It's about as low as mine and my ball joints have lasted the 10 years I've had the car, plus it was lowered when I got it so been longer than 10 years with no issues.
Edit to add at least 60k miles in that time.
Stuart
Maybe you don't corner very hard...
edh
New member
blade7 said:scam75 said:It's about as low as mine and my ball joints have lasted the 10 years I've had the car, plus it was lowered when I got it so been longer than 10 years with no issues.
Edit to add at least 60k miles in that time.
Stuart
Maybe you don't corner very hard...
Suspect that with firmer suspension & less roll, the effect on the ball joints is less pronounced.
924Srr27l
New member
edh said:blade7 said:scam75 said:It's about as low as mine and my ball joints have lasted the 10 years I've had the car, plus it was lowered when I got it so been longer than 10 years with no issues.
Edit to add at least 60k miles in that time.
Stuart
Maybe you don't corner very hard...
Suspect that with firmer suspension & less roll, the effect on the ball joints is less pronounced.
No it'll be the reverse......
More pressure loaded at a faster rate (Stiffer Coils / lower Ride height) puts more stress on the components.
R
924Srr27l
New member
edh said:Raises roll centre I think? Not ideal. Probably insignificant for road use
Yes it changes the Roll centre adversly and the car pitches and Rolls at a rate bigger than standard.
It's very significant for Road use as Public roads are not a Smooth as Race tracks, so a revised roll centre from a
lowered ride height regains the correct roll centre and gets rid of the Bump steer the incorrect wishbone angle causes from lowering
to a non stock ride height.
R
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:I don't want to come across all 9242.7 or whatever he calls himself, but going that low without other mods will cock up the front geo. I'd at least alter the control arms inner pick up point.
All the Geometry can be checked and changed to be within OE guidlines (Camber, Castor, toe), but the wishbones angle upwards
at the wheel and create more body roll at a faster arch than standard (Flat).
Altering the Control arms at the Engine Cross member would be a good idea, but I've never seen it done or can think of
a reasonable (costs) way to do it, unless you have an idea?
R
edh
New member
No it'll be the reverse......
More pressure loaded at a faster rate (Stiffer Coils / lower Ride height) puts more stress on the components.
R
[/quote]
But I believe the problem is ball joints binding / failing when they exceed their operating range. This will be more pronounced on a stock car than one with stiffer suspension. Lowering may increase roll a bit, but still much flatter than stock.
924Srr27l
New member
edh said:/quote]
But I believe the problem is ball joints binding / failing when they exceed their operating range. This will be more pronounced on a stock car than one with stiffer suspension. Lowering may increase roll a bit, but still much flatter than stock.
Yes the static ball joint angle puts more stress into it, and for sure a stiffer damper and spring change even at stock ride height will feel much more stable and less springy but if you lowered a stock car with worn suspension you'd then see how much worst it was.
It could and can be much better if the wishbone angle is corrected but this is not something available too easily and is not cheap.
Hence most "Roadies" not only don't notice any difference, or inexperienced trackday users so nothing gets changed.
But for those more in tune, more experienced and technically challenged with improving their car's for road or Racing this is a Modification that is advantageous as I've also now experienced myself.
Lowering does two good things:
(1) it creates an increase in the maximum available static negative camber,
(2) it reduces lateral weight transfer in the corners. Both of these effects tend to increase tire performance at the limit.
But there's one negative effect, namely, a reduction in roll stiffness with the MacPherson strut front because the wishbone is no longer flat but angled up from the cross member to the outer ball joint point
This Reduces the roll stiffness meaning the car rolls over to a greater angle than before in the corners.
The extra roll reduces the negative camber of the outside tires (some of which was gained by lowering) just when you need it most, and tends to reduce the transient response of the car by making it take longer to go from full cornering in one direction to full cornering in the other direction.
R
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