snapped a hatch pin!

[Fat Albert]

Doing my weekly fluids check and thought I would just tweak up one of my hatch pins as the hatch was squeaking and a bit of wind noise had appeared.
Undid the nut and went to tweak the pin with a stilson wrench only to notice the pin turned and the nut didn't.....turned it back and the wretched thing came away....

I assume that I probably weakened it last time I adjusted them (it was pretty well jammed when I did it) and it has fatigued over time, hence the squeaking hatch. Porschapart looks the cheapest with originals at £17.00, any better places than that?

My trip to Bracknell on Tuesday will be a bit noisy/drafty!

 

[Super_Marv]

They were £3.29 each + VAT from Porsche, when I bought a couple of hatch pins in May, if you're talking about part number 944.538.547.00.

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Check PC Exeter first, your local PC second, well-known new parts suppliers followed by the used parts sellers on this forum third, e-bay forth, other second hand suppliers or sellers fifth. Regardless of the part in question you'll be working your way down the scale armed with the original price all the way. And, you'll always be more likely to get a new part at a better price than a used part. [8|]

 

[Fat Albert]

Thanks guys, I ordered the Porschapart ones yesterday as they come with the mounting blocks as well, I assume mine snapped as it was seized solid, so don't relish trying to remove the stud stub

 

[Fat Albert]

Help! What size torx bit do I need to remove the hatch pin block? Is it a torx bit? A T30 is too small and a T40 is too big, but I can't seem to find a T35?

 

[peanut]

ORIGINAL: Fat Albert

Help! What size torx bit do I need to remove the hatch pin block? Is it a torx bit? A T30 is too small and a T40 is too big, but I can't seem to find a T35?

I can see this little job rapidly developing into a small disaster [] sorry don't know but if you phone Porsche at Exeter and ask them to send you 2x new ones with your pins I'm sure that Mark in parts will tell you what they are[]

 

[Fat Albert]

I already have the pins and the square seated nuts that the screw into, it is the large lump that the square nut seats into I am trying to remove that look like Torx bolts, but I have a horrible feeling that they are to a different standard/size that was pre-Torx?
I might have to break out the parts CD and see if they show them

 

[Dockrell]

Jeremy,
On my 944 I can use a 5mm hex key to undo the bolts. They are a torx fitting between 30 and 40 - probably T35. However just to confuse things I have a T20 key which fits the bolts (It's bigger than the T30 bit in the cheap set I have!)

Mike

White 2.7 automatic

 

[Pastry]

i used an allen key too, i guess it was 5mm i cant remember. bit stiff 1st time round. greased em before i put them back and the next time was a lot smoother.

 

[Fat Albert]

Thanks Chaps, will give that a go tomorrow!

 

[944Fripp]

My hatch is squeaking too and have been meaning to post about it for ages. Is it a case of simply undoing the small nut mounted on the stud and then tightening up the stud (using stilson's, mole-grips or something of the like) into the black block which is secured to the hatch with torx bolts? It seemed to be held in there pretty rigidly last time I tried! Any tips for NOT doing as Jeremy has done?!

T

 

[peanut]

it may depend on how old and worn your hatch pins are.
If you look at the flat surface above the pointy bit where the hatch pin rests on the retaining clips when closed you may see some ovaling to the edge of this surface where it has worn over the years.
I turned my hatch pins 90 degrees so that an unworn surface then contacted the retaining clips and that tightened up the hatch locking like new

 

[944Fripp]

Understood, good idea, will check tonight. But as for rotating them in the first place is it advisable if in doubt to try to remove the block itself thereby gaining access to the retaining nut on the opposite side? Is it bonded on or is it simply the torx bolts that hold it in place?

 

[peanut]

I would not recommend you try remove the block . I'd try turning the pins first. I have to say stilsons are a brilliant tool for grip but you need to apply some delicacy . The pins are nearly half inch diameter so shouldn't shear unless they are rusty or faulty. Just make sure the lock nuts are well undone first.

I turned my pins 90 degrees one way slowly then back 90 degrees back to ease then a little and guage how corroded the threads were.

heres a picture with an arrow pointing to the surface that is frequently worn at the edge and allows the hatch to rattle

 

[Dockrell]

Tom,
The big black block does not have a nut behind it, it is bonded in to the block.

Try a freeing agent like Plus Gas or WD40 on the pin, after undoing the nut.

One way I found for getting the length of the pin correct was to detatch the black block, with pin attached, and seat that in the pin receptical. If it fits snugly with minimal up and down movement and releases easily when the key is used in the lock then you should have the length of the pin correct.

Mike

White 2.7 automatic

 

[Fat Albert]

Just swapped out both (one at a time) took less than 30 mins end-end, including a 5 minute chat with the brother-in-law!

Ordered a T35 bit from eBay (£1.99 delivered) which did the job, removed the block, pushed the captive nut out of the rubber, new one in, did what was suggested above and adjusted them to fit into the latch before refitting, refitted the torx bolts and adjusted.

all fits nice and snug, and for the first time in ages the boot releases when I press the boot release!

About to take the dog to the Vets so will see how much the noise has improved!

Yes it has improved muchly! no wind roar or exhasut sound from the back any more, so the old pin must have been stretching/failing for a long time!