So what are the "while you're in there" bits for a clutch?
- Thread starter DavidL
- Start date
Unsieze the gearbox oil fill bolt / change gearbox oil
Check or replace the gear linkage
Check or replace driveshaft UJs etc
Check clutch slave & connecting hydraulic tube etc
RMS (The oil seal behind the flywheel) if it needs doing
replace/refurb Starter motor
If you have any issues with any of these things on the car it'll save you some labour if you do them while it's all apart. Apart from the gearbox oil bolt I'd only do the other stuff if it needs doing anyway though.
As has been said really ... cover and friction plates and release bearing.
Spigot bearing (although this can be a pig to shift. See the 'alternative parts' thread for details on getting these cheaper).
RMS.
Anything gearbox/linkage related.
Skimming the flywheel will take some days, unless you have a ready-skimmed replacement, so you won't be able to get the car back on the road as quickly. (Important if it is your only car.)
A minor point, but it's worth replacing all the nuts and bolts holding things on. It makes re-assembly much more pleasant and gives a much neater looking job.
Oli.
Spigot bearing (although this can be a pig to shift. See the 'alternative parts' thread for details on getting these cheaper).
RMS.
Anything gearbox/linkage related.
Skimming the flywheel will take some days, unless you have a ready-skimmed replacement, so you won't be able to get the car back on the road as quickly. (Important if it is your only car.)
A minor point, but it's worth replacing all the nuts and bolts holding things on. It makes re-assembly much more pleasant and gives a much neater looking job.
Oli.
TTM
Well-known member
I would fit an RMS from Elring. Others are prone to leak.
Prepare to have to replace also the fork and fork axle. The fork adds a fair bit to the bill (£200), but at least it should be delivered with its two needle bearings fitted.
Skimming off 1.5kg off the flywheel will make a pleasant difference.
Prepare to have to replace also the fork and fork axle. The fork adds a fair bit to the bill (£200), but at least it should be delivered with its two needle bearings fitted.
Skimming off 1.5kg off the flywheel will make a pleasant difference.
Really? The fork on mine was worn, but the worn ends tidied up very quickly on a grinder.
Getting it out is a pain in the neck, but the needle rollers are pretty robust and took the hit well.
I don't think I have ever heard of needing to replace the whole thing. (Not a dig at you Thom - just that I have never heard of it.)
Oli.
sawood12
New member
Pointless in my view. why not just get some weight skimmed off your current flywheel. I'd much prefer to have a steel flywheel than an aluminium one anyway. I guess it all depends on relative costs. You need to find someone who can do it, but it is not exactly a lost art like Pyramid building. I'm sure if you looked around you'd find plenty of places that can do it and i'm sure any decent indy can recommend.
Go slightly more cautiously than that. Badly-lightened flywheels are very dangerous (if the disintegrate they tend to slice your legs off at the ankles - think about where the shrapnel would go if it did let go) and a badly-balanced flywheel is a ghastly thing to drive with. (And you won't know how well-balanced your flywheel is until you have the whole thing back together and running, so even if the balancing guy did say "Oh, sorry, send it back and I'll have another go" you won't exactly want to dismantle it all again.)
If you are looking at this sort of thing, go with someone who is STRONGLY recommended, from a number of different people (or a number of different bits of work).
Just my $0.02's worth.
Oli.
sawood12
New member
Totally agree Oli, I guess in my mind that goes without saying about everything in life. You really need to find someone experienced in this area and preferably with 944 flywheels.
I had another thought on this one. It would certainly be worth replacing the rear main seal (RMS) which is the rear crank shaft seal. It is exposed during the process of a clutch change and is cheap and quick to replace once you can get to it so you may as well do it while your in there. If you don't and it goes or starts leaking further down the line then it is an expensive job as you're having to basically remove the clutch again.
I had another thought on this one. It would certainly be worth replacing the rear main seal (RMS) which is the rear crank shaft seal. It is exposed during the process of a clutch change and is cheap and quick to replace once you can get to it so you may as well do it while your in there. If you don't and it goes or starts leaking further down the line then it is an expensive job as you're having to basically remove the clutch again.
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