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Someone help, I'm clearly not bright enough.

DavidL

DavidL

Active member
Rear heated screen won't work.
I had to change the drivers side strut as it was leaking. Prior to that the alarm, rhs and boot light didn't work. Fair enough, I've had this before and you need the struts working properly for these electrics to function.
Replaced the drivers strut and the alarm and light works fine but not the screen. The strut came from a reputable indie, is handed etc so should get everything to work.
I bought a pair of struts so I tried both new ones, same result.

So a very amateur electrical diagnosis gave the following but didn't really help me.

Disconnect the wires to the struts at the back seat (so lower) end and there is a constant 12v supply between the 2 with the hatch open or shut. But if the struts are reconnected and I measure from the same point 0v. How does that make a difference?

Measure from the hatch end of the struts and 0v open or shut, rhs switch on or off.

Only thing I can find is that of the 2 different passenger side struts one has a circuit between the 2 electrical tabs when open (uncompressed) and off the car and the other doesn't. On the car they make no difference.

I'm assuming that with the hatch shut and the rhs switched off there should be no measurable voltage between the 2 tabs, hatch end and the struts in place(by the wiper motor box) but flick the dash switch and 12v should show.

I can't find anything obvious and its annoying me.

Any ideas?
 
Too late in the day for logic!

However, are you sure you have the struts on the correct side, were they to start with? You can end up with some funny electrics if not !

Also check the fuses, due to the above and as things are working that weren't.

Sorry best I can do at the moment
 
Mind the drivers side one needs earthed. OEM ones earth to the body, my aftermarket ones just had a free spade terminal at the chassis end. Once I connected an earth to this my RHS started to work again. OEM ones are metal at chassis end on drivers side and earth that way. My aftermarket ones are plastic at the end hence the need for a new earth to be run to the spade terminal.

Hope this helps.

Meant to say my boot light etc. worked fine before I added the new earth, just the RHS that didn't do anything!

Stuart
 
Thanks Stuart. I'll check but I'll be a bit miffed if it isn't as it was sold as a straight swop.
 
So were mine! Wondered what the extra spade was for but just removed it as nothing seemed to plug in from the loom! It will almost certainly be your issue I think. I have not seen after market ones with a metal connector like OEM.

Stuart
 
I've had a look and yes the new one has plastic end but then so do all the others including one with a 944 part no so I am assuming this is an old OEM part. I think I recall taking it off my old S and the strut itself is a bit weary.
I'll try this tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
Forgive my ignorance but adding an earth lead simply means attaching a wire from the spade connector to a bit of bare metal or an earth point ?
 

ORIGINAL: DavidL

I've had a look and yes the new one has plastic end but then so do all the others including one with a 944 part no so I am assuming this is an old OEM part. I think I recall taking it off my old S and the strut itself is a bit weary.
I'll try this tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
Forgive my ignorance but adding an earth lead simply means attaching a wire from the spade connector to a bit of bare metal or an earth point ?
Click to expand...

Correct. I ran a nice thick wire with a spade connector from the earthing point for the rear light cluster. The OEM strut, if like mine, should be plastic at the hatch end and metal at the chassis end, this is where the earth is required that I describe.

Stuart
 
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