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Sound deadening/insulation

nick9one1

New member
My project for today!

I bought some sound deadening from eBay the other day and decided to spend the morning insulating the drivers door.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290575629841?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I'm really pleased with it, road noise is noticeably less and the stereo sound much better. Its also waterproof.

Easy to fit too,
1. Remove doorcard.
2. remove plastic sheet and glue with white spirit (comes of easily).
3. heat the insulation with heatgun/hairdryer until its nicely flexible.
4. place onto door and use hands to press into all the nooks and crannies.
5. Refit doorcard

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Did the same thing to mine last year ,also the outer skin of the door. Helps with vibration but not much else,that is what it's actually for ,i wouldn't really call it sound deadening.
For sound reduction we would have to use closed cell foam. For a proper job i would apply those butyl sheets throughout the car for vibration reduction and on top a thick lair of closed cell foam sheets for sound reduction.
On mine i removed all the factory sound deadening completely (40kg) and installed 10 sheets of butyl (10kg) only in the more critical areas to keep vibration down, it's a bit more noisy than stock but acceptable. My goal was weight reduction, i also have manual windows,mirrors,roof,boot,steering.
 
You can also use Flash Banding. It comes in rolls like tape and is basically the samething.We use it all the time when linning vans to convet into campers.Layer of Flash Banding the a layer of insulation then a layer of silver stuff ( can't remember what it's called) then the van is botyh very quiet and snug as a bug.
 
I have some in my door panels, makes an enormous difference to the sound from the speakers and also the sound/feel of opening and closing the door - you get that 'quality' feel that they used to talk about all the time in VW adverts! I think that Dynamat market their product as sound deadening not sound proofing so this may align with Catamax's explanation
 
Now that is something I could be interested in; removing the stock sound deadening and replacing it with more modern stuff, getting a quieter but lighter car. I have looked at the sort of thing you have done nick9one1 and dismissed it as I don't want to add more weight, but do like the idea of more cabin refinement and a better stereo.

Catamax, can you give some more details of what you did? That, along with some closed cell foam sheets, sounds interesting. Also, what are closed cell foam sheets?


Oli.
 
ORIGINAL: Catamax944

Did the same thing to mine last year ,also the outer skin of the door. Helps with vibration but not much else,that is what it's actually for ,i wouldn't really call it sound deadening.
For sound reduction we would have to use closed cell foam. For a proper job i would apply those butyl sheets throughout the car for vibration reduction and on top a thick lair of closed cell foam sheets for sound reduction.
On mine i removed all the factory sound deadening completely (40kg) and installed 10 sheets of butyl (10kg) only in the more critical areas to keep vibration down, it's a bit more noisy than stock but acceptable. My goal was weight reduction, i also have manual windows,mirrors,roof,boot,steering.

Sound is vibration !
 
The flashing tape did cross my mind as a cheaper alternative. Although I wasnt sure of the difference between butyl (that I bought) and the bitumen flashing?

The other product that crossed my mind was this;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/isoflex-liquid-rubber-2-1l/36010

I think it would be quite good for floors but difficult to apply anywhere else!!

 
All I can say is the flashing tape is very good when used in vans for camper conversions.You can layer it up if you want super silence and it's very easy to apply as you can put it on in lengths.I would havedone the inside face of the door skin rather than the outside face of the inside of the door.
 
According to Dynamat's website, Dynamat Extreme is their best performing product. If you look at the technical specs, they describe it as 'butyl and aluminum'. Which is basically the same as every other product out there. And at 1.7 mm some of the cheaper products are actually thicker too.

I would guess it weighs the same as flashing tape of the same thickness.

Any pointers on the cheapest place to get flashing tape? I'd like to remove all the old sound dampening from under the seats and replace it.

 
Crumbs. Well I never - thanks Nick. I always thought that Dynamat was better and lighter than the flashing tape alternative - in fact I thought that flashing tape was the ghetto-solution ... but that was only ever from reading the likes of talkaudio, who are kit-whores of extreme measures!

Flashing tape ... buy from screwfix, perhaps toolstation ... anywhere else?


Oli.
 
Closed cell foam is a high density foam designed to reduce sound and heat. It's the same thing porsche used on the center tunel and the foot well but being a 25 year old product it's not realy up to today's standards and may be also falling apart ,at least mine was. Here's what it looks like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sound-proofing-heat-insulation-closed-cell-foam-2mtr-x-1mtr-x-12mm-/300692610780?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4602ad1edc
Butyl pads or flashing tape will only reduce high tone vibration and rattling . To significantly reduce the noise level in the cabin you will need extra padding ,either with closed cell foam sheets or even good old classic felt sheets. Done right the weight should remain the same because the new products are quite a bit lighter.
It takes time and a lot of elbow grease to clean out the interior and install new sound insulation , all pannels ,carpet ,seats and dash must come out.
Heres some pictures on my car when i did this, i used only 10 sheets of butyl with no padding ,like i sayd i was aiming for weight reduction .For a proper insulation you would need at least double that plus a layer of padding on top.
If anyone is interested i am offering my services for a job like this.

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Excellent job done there - what solvents would you recommend to remove the glue and gunk under the carpet? I am in the process of doing this to my car, the carpets are out but I'm scratching my head with all the remaining stuff!
 

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