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Hi Bones,
I have just completed installing the new gear I bought for my speedo from Jeff Caplan of Odometer Gears Ltd Virginia USA.
As requested I have listed below the method for this gear replacement. I am not sure how much detail to go into but I have assumed that if you are going to do this repair yourself that most of it will be common sense as you get into the job and you feel your way.
1) Disconnect battery earth connection.
2)Remove speedo dial gauge from the dashboard.
Use a plastic screw driver and insert the blade between the rim of the gauge and the rubber grommet and gently lever out the gauge from two sided, once the gauge moves it can be pulled out.
3) Remove three light bulb holder from back of gauge, one @12 oclock, one at 11 oclock and one at 6 oclock as viewed from the front of the gauge, label positions.
4) Remove spade wire connections and mark for reassembly. Gauge can now be removed from the car.
5) Remove Front rim of gauge.
The front rim of the gauge is swaged onto the gauge and to remove it you will need to use a screw driver to bend back the lip all around the gauge. Working your way around the gauge lift up the swaged edge of the rim a little at a time, this is a bit messy and some distortion of the edge will result but if you take your time the rim will come off and when reinstalled the damaged edge will be covered by the rubber grommet. Remove the rim and glass and inner rim. Take care not to damage the needle as it is now exposed.
6) Remove six screws from the back of the gauge 4 holding the gauge and 2 holding the spage connector assembly. the gauge can now be removed from the casing, also push the spade connector through the hole in the casing . There is a blue wire which is soldered to the casing this does not need to be unsoldered but it will restrict how far the gauge can be seperated from the casing.
7) Remove the stepper motor by undoing one securing screw.
8) Needle removal.
The needle is held on by a tight fit sleeve, turn the needle to max speed clockwise until you hit the mechanical stop in side the mechanism and place thumb and first finger under the centre boss and keep turning past the end stop and lift as you turn.
The needle will not be able to turn beyond the trip zero rod at bottom dead centre so take care not to bend the needle. Turn the needle to zero speed, fully anticlockwise and continue to turn anticlockwise after you hit the mechanical stop within the mechanism and geltly pull the needle boss. This process is repeated back and forth until the needle comes off ,I took 4 goes each way. The needle shaft is only 0.5mm diameter and about 5 mm long so care is needed not to bend the shaft.
9) Remove the face plate.
Remove two screws and lift off speedo face plate, behind the face plate are four screws, remove these screws and the speedo assembly will come apart in two pieces. One piece has the mile counter assembly and the other has the speedo needle rotary mechanism. Be carefull with the blue and red wire attached to the speedo mechanism. At this stage the gear assembly is now clear of the speedo assembly.
10) Replacing gear.
There are three double gears all meshing together and to replace the damaged primary gear all three gears will need to be removed. The gear to be replace is in a sandwich and on the bottom of the pile. The first gear is held on by a 1.5mm daimeter pin which was easy to push out, remove this gear, be careful as the double gear is made up of two pieces. The next gear to be removed is cantilevered and held on by a spring circlip, remove this gear. The gear to be replaced is next and again is cantilevered and held on by a spring circlip.During this part of the repair there are no spring to worry about and the mile wheels will not move or loose position so no worries there.
11) Fit new gear.
The new gear was a good fit and I used a small amount af grease to lubricate the shaft, working the gear back and forth until it turned freely.
12) reassembly.
I reassembled the other two gears and and put a small dot of supper glue onto the 1.5mm pin holding on the first gear removed, just to make sure it didn't slide during service.
13) reassembly complete is the reverse.
When replacing the needle push on the needle and as for removal use the end stop idea to reset the needle to zero working back and forth at each end stop to turn the needle as necessary to set to zero.
I would allow an afternoon for the complete job, having done it once 2 hours would be about right for the job.
I have 8 photos to go with the above and read inconjunction with the photos the repair will make a lot more sense.
The new gear from Jeff cost $29 (£15 on my master card) so if you like a challange you could save your self a lot of cash.
If there are questions please let me know, as Jeff says this gear is always going to fail it's just a matter of when.
I have just completed installing the new gear I bought for my speedo from Jeff Caplan of Odometer Gears Ltd Virginia USA.
As requested I have listed below the method for this gear replacement. I am not sure how much detail to go into but I have assumed that if you are going to do this repair yourself that most of it will be common sense as you get into the job and you feel your way.
1) Disconnect battery earth connection.
2)Remove speedo dial gauge from the dashboard.
Use a plastic screw driver and insert the blade between the rim of the gauge and the rubber grommet and gently lever out the gauge from two sided, once the gauge moves it can be pulled out.
3) Remove three light bulb holder from back of gauge, one @12 oclock, one at 11 oclock and one at 6 oclock as viewed from the front of the gauge, label positions.
4) Remove spade wire connections and mark for reassembly. Gauge can now be removed from the car.
5) Remove Front rim of gauge.
The front rim of the gauge is swaged onto the gauge and to remove it you will need to use a screw driver to bend back the lip all around the gauge. Working your way around the gauge lift up the swaged edge of the rim a little at a time, this is a bit messy and some distortion of the edge will result but if you take your time the rim will come off and when reinstalled the damaged edge will be covered by the rubber grommet. Remove the rim and glass and inner rim. Take care not to damage the needle as it is now exposed.
6) Remove six screws from the back of the gauge 4 holding the gauge and 2 holding the spage connector assembly. the gauge can now be removed from the casing, also push the spade connector through the hole in the casing . There is a blue wire which is soldered to the casing this does not need to be unsoldered but it will restrict how far the gauge can be seperated from the casing.
7) Remove the stepper motor by undoing one securing screw.
8) Needle removal.
The needle is held on by a tight fit sleeve, turn the needle to max speed clockwise until you hit the mechanical stop in side the mechanism and place thumb and first finger under the centre boss and keep turning past the end stop and lift as you turn.
The needle will not be able to turn beyond the trip zero rod at bottom dead centre so take care not to bend the needle. Turn the needle to zero speed, fully anticlockwise and continue to turn anticlockwise after you hit the mechanical stop within the mechanism and geltly pull the needle boss. This process is repeated back and forth until the needle comes off ,I took 4 goes each way. The needle shaft is only 0.5mm diameter and about 5 mm long so care is needed not to bend the shaft.
9) Remove the face plate.
Remove two screws and lift off speedo face plate, behind the face plate are four screws, remove these screws and the speedo assembly will come apart in two pieces. One piece has the mile counter assembly and the other has the speedo needle rotary mechanism. Be carefull with the blue and red wire attached to the speedo mechanism. At this stage the gear assembly is now clear of the speedo assembly.
10) Replacing gear.
There are three double gears all meshing together and to replace the damaged primary gear all three gears will need to be removed. The gear to be replace is in a sandwich and on the bottom of the pile. The first gear is held on by a 1.5mm daimeter pin which was easy to push out, remove this gear, be careful as the double gear is made up of two pieces. The next gear to be removed is cantilevered and held on by a spring circlip, remove this gear. The gear to be replaced is next and again is cantilevered and held on by a spring circlip.During this part of the repair there are no spring to worry about and the mile wheels will not move or loose position so no worries there.
11) Fit new gear.
The new gear was a good fit and I used a small amount af grease to lubricate the shaft, working the gear back and forth until it turned freely.
12) reassembly.
I reassembled the other two gears and and put a small dot of supper glue onto the 1.5mm pin holding on the first gear removed, just to make sure it didn't slide during service.
13) reassembly complete is the reverse.
When replacing the needle push on the needle and as for removal use the end stop idea to reset the needle to zero working back and forth at each end stop to turn the needle as necessary to set to zero.
I would allow an afternoon for the complete job, having done it once 2 hours would be about right for the job.
I have 8 photos to go with the above and read inconjunction with the photos the repair will make a lot more sense.
The new gear from Jeff cost $29 (£15 on my master card) so if you like a challange you could save your self a lot of cash.
If there are questions please let me know, as Jeff says this gear is always going to fail it's just a matter of when.
] Send an email to Stephen Mummery and give him the link to here, then he can have a look I'm sure it would be of interest to many readers.
