Standard or short shift
- Thread starter skendrick
- Start date
The 'select' (I.E. left to right) movment of my gear shift is pretty sloppy, while the 'select' (forward/backwards) is pretty tight and at times, slow. i believe that a short shift will only decrease the select travel, thus giving a bigger imbalance between forward/back, left right movment.
steve 944t
Member
I have one of Jon Mitchell's short shifts which I hope to be fitting over the weekend. He does 2 versions - one road version with a slightly closer shift to standard and one track version. I went for the road version. Obviously I cannot yet comment on how it performs, but have to say it looks superb. Shame to hide it away on top of the gearbox
]
Fitting looks very straightforward, apart from having to remove the exhaust heat shield - looks like mine has never been off, so will almost certainly end up with sheared bolts []
]Fitting looks very straightforward, apart from having to remove the exhaust heat shield - looks like mine has never been off, so will almost certainly end up with sheared bolts [
]
Indi9xx
New member
I dont want to seem like I am advertising, so I will keep it technical
If you have a sloppy left to right shift, then your pin on the shift lever (front, under gear knob) is worn to a cone or barrell shape... take off the gator and look at the pin while you rock the lever left and right. They wear like this because the pin is mild steel and the hole in the rod that it goes through to the back of the car is mild steel.. due to damp conditions on top of the torque tube, this causes surface rust to occure on the pin and the bore of the recepticle (mostly the pin), once the minor surface rust occures the next time you change gear the rust is rubbed off, this cycle causes the pin to errode as well as wear out. Which is why we developed our remanufactured front lever which comes with a stainless steel pin and comes complete with oil impregnated non mild steel bushes which optionally can be installed into the bore of the recepticle, which cures this problem, but IS NOT our quickshift kit. We call this our FrontShift, its there as a repair to a worn front shift that will not suffer in the same way as the standard item.
At the back of the car, you have a mild steel assembly, which moves within a nasty cast nylon block... the same thing happens at the back of the car... the shafts rust as soon as the nik plating rubs off, this rust makes the surface rough which then eats away at the nylon block. We spent ages trying to make an OEM style kit to repair these, but then decided to junk the entire idea as the original part was way too cheap and nasty. Instead we developed two shifters, the RoadShift and the RaceShift, both using all stainless steel and billet aluminium construction, aircraft rose joints and an a touch of over engineering (it has an adjuster bar so you can adjust the left-right position of the gear lever by just twisting an adjuster (like a 944 alternator adjuster).
The road shift is slightly reduced in travel both left to right and back and forward (at the stick) compared with a brand new OEM assembly but is MUCH more precise (I like gated Ferrari feeling)... The RaceShift is the same item, but with about 50% of the travel (left and right, as well as back and forth) over the standard OEM parts.
Obviously, if you reduce the travel by 50% more force is needed to move the gearbox selector by the same amount (in other words to get it into gear) so I always explain to people that if you go for a raceshift your going to use a slight amount more force than if you had a RoadShift.
Having said this, we have fitted the other quickshifts on the market over the years, and our RaceShift, because of the design and material quality, does not bind up like many, so requires the minimum amount of force required to change gear.
So there we go... the ins and outs the standard and modified shift mechanisms.
If you have a sloppy left to right shift, then your pin on the shift lever (front, under gear knob) is worn to a cone or barrell shape... take off the gator and look at the pin while you rock the lever left and right. They wear like this because the pin is mild steel and the hole in the rod that it goes through to the back of the car is mild steel.. due to damp conditions on top of the torque tube, this causes surface rust to occure on the pin and the bore of the recepticle (mostly the pin), once the minor surface rust occures the next time you change gear the rust is rubbed off, this cycle causes the pin to errode as well as wear out. Which is why we developed our remanufactured front lever which comes with a stainless steel pin and comes complete with oil impregnated non mild steel bushes which optionally can be installed into the bore of the recepticle, which cures this problem, but IS NOT our quickshift kit. We call this our FrontShift, its there as a repair to a worn front shift that will not suffer in the same way as the standard item.
At the back of the car, you have a mild steel assembly, which moves within a nasty cast nylon block... the same thing happens at the back of the car... the shafts rust as soon as the nik plating rubs off, this rust makes the surface rough which then eats away at the nylon block. We spent ages trying to make an OEM style kit to repair these, but then decided to junk the entire idea as the original part was way too cheap and nasty. Instead we developed two shifters, the RoadShift and the RaceShift, both using all stainless steel and billet aluminium construction, aircraft rose joints and an a touch of over engineering (it has an adjuster bar so you can adjust the left-right position of the gear lever by just twisting an adjuster (like a 944 alternator adjuster).
The road shift is slightly reduced in travel both left to right and back and forward (at the stick) compared with a brand new OEM assembly but is MUCH more precise (I like gated Ferrari feeling)... The RaceShift is the same item, but with about 50% of the travel (left and right, as well as back and forth) over the standard OEM parts.
Obviously, if you reduce the travel by 50% more force is needed to move the gearbox selector by the same amount (in other words to get it into gear) so I always explain to people that if you go for a raceshift your going to use a slight amount more force than if you had a RoadShift.
Having said this, we have fitted the other quickshifts on the market over the years, and our RaceShift, because of the design and material quality, does not bind up like many, so requires the minimum amount of force required to change gear.
So there we go... the ins and outs the standard and modified shift mechanisms.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
