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Starting problem

steveoz32

New member
Are you saying that the engine doesn't even turn when turning the key or it just will not fire? If you pull the ignition relay it should still turn but will not fire. The barrel is a known weak point IIRC.
 
Steve, Thanks for the fast post. The problem is I turn the key and nothing. Not even a click! That leads me to think there is no power from the switch to the starter solenoid. But not being a 996 expert yet (though fast becoming more intermate with my 996) could it be something in between? Steve.
 
No problem, are all other electrics working at key position 2, is it just the case that nothing at all happens when you move to position 3?
 
Richard,

I need your kind help.
We were driving only a few miles from home. We get this smell of electrical burning in the car and it just stopped. All the lights on the dash came on just as if the car had staled. But not even a click when I turned the key to the start position The AA guy did some checks across the battery and said that was OK. He said he had come across starter problems with 996's before and that had been the starter motor itself had burnt out! He then recovered us back home and I started to research what could be wrong. Reading some of the other threads on starter motor replacement I had been getting some screeching on start up. So maybe was not long for this world anyway.

On removing parts needed to get to the starter I found that the Vacuum Unit control for the resonator flap broken. From the amount of dirt on it been that way for some time. Thanks for the info on this Geoff997. This I have now replaced. The starter motor was dead so I have replaced with a reconditioned unit.

The car will still not start. I have checked the starter is working with a wire across the terminals and it turns the engine over as it should. So I am thinking maybe it's the ign switch has failed, a relay or something else stopping the power from reaching the starter solenoid.

Your help and advice would be most gratefully received.

Rgds
Steve
 
Where I was going with this is, that if the start solenoid has constant 12v from the battery and a good ground (which it sounds like it has and you have already checked), and you can not even here the solenoid clicking when moving to position 3 to pass current to the motor (and nothing else occurs, IE no dimming of lights or other strange occurrence to indicate another electrical issue) then it sounds like you aren't getting a live from the starter trigger or switch to the ignition. Is the earth on the motor ok? It 'could' be that this trigger was damaged when the motor burnt out or something at that end occurred, just a guess though, as without having the old unit and looking at / testing it who knows what or why it went pop. Here's something that may be of interest to you on the ignition relay topic you mentioned http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=612019&mpage=1&key=ecu Cheers,
 
The starter gets its signal from the DME, not the ignition switch itself, so as Steve says, worth checking the ignition relay and start lock relay. If one has burned out, I expect it will be pretty smelly if you unplug it and take a sniff.
 
Steve, Richard, Many thanks for the prompt replies. I will check out the the relays as you suggest and let you know how I get on. Cheers Steve
 
Hi guys, Found the relays no problem thanks to pics Steve. None had a burnt smell about them. Well it has been a few weeks since the starter motor went. Anyway the "black"ignition relay looked old so replaced it any way. I did try as suggested and bridge across and yes I got the engine to turn over but followed by the alarm cutting in. This did not stop until I locked and then unlocked the doors a few times. Got the new replay in the post today. Pluged that in and still no action when the key is tured to posiion 3. You seem to like a good brain teasing much as I do. My other toy is a Lotus. Starter trigger what is that? Can you point me to what I should be checking next. Thanks in advance for you continued interest in my woes. Cheers Steve
 
If it turns over by bridging the relay, then you can eliminate the starter motor and its connections. A couple of thoughts. The ignition switch could indeed be faulty, and not signalling the DME. The switch contacts take virtually no load, but may have physically broken up inside. (DIY in the technical articles section). The immobiliser could have cut in and is inhibiting cranking. Can you hear the fuel pump running for a second or two when you switch on the ignition? If not, it might be the immobiliser.
 
No probs, as Richard mentions, sounds like the control module is not activating the relay, hence when you bridged, it bypassed the switching function of the relay and manually forced the circuit to complete, again the immobiliser function would have stopped it from firing. At this point it is likely that the issue is simply that there is no signal to tell the ECU that the key is in position three, the relay does not activate and therefore does not pass current or complete the circuit. This could be an unfortunate co-incidence, or related to the failure of the starter and in some way the circuit was damaged. Where about's in the country are you by the way? If anyone is fairly local and could pop down and plug a durametric or similar in, it would be handy to see if there is anything else a-foot. If it is a simple malfunction of the ignition switch or similar though then this won't be picked up (as it isn't actually an error, it's just not even activating therefore as if the key has not been turned). I understand your frustration, it took me quite some time to locate my starting issue when I got my 996, I just about tested all of the fueling system, even removing the pump from the tank! Then moved on to the ignition system before finally taking an educated guess on the crank sensor and thankfully it worked! There were a long list of things I had to eliminate first though! Good luck!
 
Steve, Richard, Thanks for all the help. At least I now know that a number of the components I have changed so far will be good insurance for the future. I am in South Essex and was going to ask does anyone know a good mobile auto electrician in the area. If not then will need to get the car recovered to a workshop where I have had the car serviced. I am getting to the limits of what I can test. Thanks again. Will report back when and how we get it working again.
 
Hi, Well it was the O/side vario cam adjustment solenoid which had a short circuit and then finally burnt out. The guys at Daniel James (my local indy ) said it was quite rare. In fact he could not remember the last time he had seen one go. Anyway got them to replace both sides on the basis if one had broken down the other side might not be that far behind. So to replace them they had to remove both exhaust manifolds which was a pain as they seemed to be the originals and rusted on solid. The car is now back to rude health and my wallet somewhat lighter. Steve
 
I'm pleased to hear you got it sorted Steve. I have heard of the wiring loom to the Variocam solenoid shorting out, which blows the DME fuse and prevents it starting. Unusual for the solenoid itself to go short circuit - they normally fail open circuit, which just gives rough running.
 
Richard, For info. The guys told me that they had found the fuse had blown. They replaced this and the car started OK. After a few moments their workshop started to fill with smoke. They turned it off and got the car up on the lift. The smoke was coming fron the solenoid. Not something they had seen before! Steve
 

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