Starting Problem

[calisa]

(Not the usual "y" cable, earth, hot re-starting issue or low battery voltage)

Ran the car, up to normal operating temp, approx 15 miles and then stopped, parked and switched off drivers window fully down.
back to the car after a few minutes and tried to re-start.

Normal indications when putting in the key (key 1 identified and then the usual pre-start messages when the key was turned) v slow crank, almost started and then nothing i.e. usual symptoms of the failing battery/low voltage. removed the key and tried again: absolutely no response. no attempt to turn the engine, no messages at all on the instruments

Door locks work, front hood release works, engine release works, interior lights work, infotainment system works, but window won't come up

Attached a booster pack but got absolutely nothing. No clicking from the starter/solenoid no engine rotation but more concerning, no change from the instrument cluster when the key was turned to the run or to the start positions.

completely dead

if appears that some very limited circuits are powering up and the key is communicating to the car electronically, but when the key is in an rotated, nothing happening....

any suggestions?
electronic module in the key barrel?

 

[Motorhead]

It sounds as though your battery could be the problem, especially since you can’t crank the engine or raise your window, both of which require a high current, whereas the other things you mention which are working probable don’t.

You should be able to get the battery checked-out FOC at any reputable battery supplier.

Jeff

 

[calisa]

It sounds as though your battery could be the problem, especially since you can’t crank the engine or raise your window, both of which require a high current, whereas the other things you mention which are working probable don’t.

You should be able to get the battery checked-out FOC at any reputable battery supplier.

Jeff

Battery was the first thought, but attaching a booster pack made no difference. Booster pack was fully charged, so I don't think it's the battery.
The lack of response on the instrument cluster to the key being turned to the "run" position (where normally it gives you oil level) is concerning me. Same response with both keys. Each is correctly identified, but nothing more so also unlikely to be as simple as the key-battery running low

 

[Scrounger]

Could this be your issue?

Go to 11:45 on the first video

 

[calisa]

thanks for sharing these.....but I don't think that is the issue.
if you look at what happens when he turns the key (dash warning lights illuminate, one board computed data appears): I don't get that.
also, 997.1 doesn't have the same factory immobiliser/alarm and in 2 years of use, I've not had or carried a small fob like he was holding up

 

[Motorhead]

Understood, and I’m not disagreeing with you that it’s not battery-related. However, we all know that the electrics on the modern water-cooled cars are very susceptible to battery condition, and a battery check is the simplest thing to perform if you remove it for testing or if you have home breakdown assistance cover. Otherwise I think the most cost-effective way to proceed is to run a Porsche-specific diagnostic check to see what error codes are flagged. I doubt that a generic diagnostic tester will give enough detail, but who knows?

Good luck!

Jeff

 

[Rubber_Man]

I read somewhere, a time ago, there is a problem with the cable betwen the battery and behind the dashboard that causes the slow starting

 

[calisa]

Update:

As I explained in the original post, this was NOT a slow cranking/poor earth/y-cable/battery issue.

Fault has been diagnosed and rectified and worth noting:

Inside the key switch (the barrel that is rotated when the key is inserted: https://www.design911shop.com/p/por...907-99761815904-99761815906/?source=doofinder) there is a micro switch.

When the key is turned, that switch triggers the "run" electronics, allows the starter to be engaged, disengages the steering lock etc. As it was sticking and then completely stuck in position, that meant the car appeared to be electronically "dead".

dismantled it, cleaned and lubricated with a ceramic grease and normal service resumed