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Steering wheel removal

Rick101

New member
I had a replacement wheel fitted and it's around 20 degrees off. I'm guessing it's just on the wrong spline.
Is it just a matter of removing cover, cracking the nut and refitting the wheel in the correct orientation?

Have done a wheel swap before on an other non airbag car, guessing it should be fairly simple, just wondering if there is anything I need to be wary of.

Thanks
 
Exactly that, but you'll need to take the nut and washer right off to get the hub far enough out to turn it a couple of splines. I always remove the horn relay before removing the wheel, as it saves the horn going off when you replace the horn pad.

 
Thanks guys,

Quite new to this. Is the horn fuse in the front? Any idea what number or position it would be?

Thanks

 
Lubricate the horn contact ring with a smear of electrical grease before replacing the steering wheel. This will prevent (or at least delay) the onset of the .dry graunching noise when turning the wheel

 
Ahh! That's what that blooming noise is!

Thought it was something just catching with new wheel. Great tip. Thanks

 
Graunching steering wheel and failing headlamp dip/main switch - two issues guaranteed to beset every Carrera 3.2...eventually!

 
chrishak said:
Graunching steering wheel and failing headlamp dip/main switch - two issues guaranteed to beset every Carrera 3.2...eventually!
The headlight flashing option on my stalk packed up a while ago. I shall take a look at it some time soon. Could be the points arrangement on the switch or a replacement may be needed.

 
You can't break the switch apart so anew switch will be required design 911 will be your best and cheapest

Paul

 
911 targa said:
You can't break the switch apart so anew switch will be required design 911 will be your best and cheapest

Paul
That's only partially true Paul - although the switch doesn't come apart, the dip / main contacts are exposed so can be accessed and attempts can be made to clean them. However in my experience this is probably futile (but still worth a try) as they are likely to have welded themselves together or will, at the very least, have a build-up of metal on one contact. This is caused by the high current passing through the contact and is the reason why the addition of a relay in the headlamp circuit is such a popular mod.

If you do decide to replace the switch, don't discount your local OPC as a source - with the club discount they can be very competitive.

 
Finally got this job done today and sorted the noise with a dab of vasaline too.

Went with 50nm when refitting the centre nut. Can anyone confirm if that is the correct torque?

Thanks

 

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