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Stuttering on acceleration

jmelhuish

PCGB Member
Member
Hi All, This morning my S2 started stuttering on acceleration. It felt as though it was occasionally missing. Can anyone help with what is the most likely causes are and in what order to check them. Thanks Jason
 
I would start by checking the ignition system. Check the connections first. Plugs are the easiest to inspect, check the gaps and the colour of the electrode. I'm not sure how you test leads or distributor, other than by replacing them.
 
Yeah given the glorious weather we are enjoying I would definately look for signs of damp in your plugs and distributor. Give them all a wipe to make sure they are completely dry. If that does the trick then like Tom said I would consider changing them.
 
ORIGINAL: jmelhuish

Hi All, This morning my S2 started stuttering on acceleration. It felt as though it was occasionally missing. Can anyone help with what is the most likely causes are and in what order to check them. Thanks Jason

if the running improves when shes warmed up i would look at a fuel issue like sticky injectors . Especially if the car is used infreequently or hasn't been used for a few weeks. Check that all the injectors are clicking strongly by using a screwdriver to your ear if necessary.
Might have some water /imputities in the tank that have seperated if shes been standing a while. Stick some fresh fuel in the tank if its low see if that improves things.
otherwise favourite culprets include the FPR and AFS
 
i had this problem turned out it was just the fuel filter was so dirty that its wasnt passing properly, all fine now there is a new one on the car
 
ORIGINAL: dann944

i had this problem turned out it was just the fuel filter was so dirty that its wasnt passing properly, all fine now there is a new one on the car

which one ? the one in the tank or the external filter?
 
Misfiring could be down to a broken valve spring, but that would also show itself with a slightly noisy top end.
 
ORIGINAL: ChasR

Misfiring could be down to a broken valve spring, but that would also show itself with a slightly noisy top end.

yes thats true but jason didn't say it was misfiring but stuttering which would suggest a fuel delivery issue . It could be electrical but that would tend to show itself on starting and idle and right through the acceleration and cruising speed range.
Its one of those problems that will probably need a comprehensive step by step test of everything to find the source of the problem.
 
Clarkes Garage Manual is a brilliant resource for trouble shooting guides
Engine Hesitates or Stumbles During Acceleration. Possible Causes Checks Procedure Dead spot in Air Flow Sensor / Air Flow Meter (AFM) potentiometer. Test AFM. ELECT-19 Vacuum Leak. With a large vacuum leak, the car may idle correctly. However, as soon as you open the throttle, the car may hesitate, stumble, or even cutoff. The best way to look for vacuum leaks is to connect a source of compressed air (approximately 10 psi will do it) to the intake manifold with the engine not running and listen for air leaks. N/A Spark Plugs Fouled. Remove spark plugs and check condition. ENG-18 Engine Misses. Possible Causes Checks Procedure Bad spark plug wires. Run the engine in a dark area and look for arcing from the spark plug wires to the engine. N/A Cracked distributor cap. Remove cap and check condition. N/A Faulty spark plug. Remove spark plugs individually and inspect for broken or excessively worn electrode or cracked insulator. Check the condition of the spark plugs by color. ENG-18 Vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks by pressuizing the intake manifold with compressed air. Listen for leaks. N/A Clogged fuel filter. Replace filter. FUEL-03 DME Computer A faulty DME computer can cause a variety of starting and running problems. Normally, problems with the DME computer are the result of bad solder joints which can frequently be repaired. There's really no way to test the DME unless you can swap it into another vehicle or unless you can borrow a known good DME to install for testing purposes. And, even a good used DME computer is a little pricey. So, I don't like to run out and replace the DME unless I've eliminated all other possible causes. If you suspect the DME computer is bad, as a minimum, I would open it up and inspect for bad solder joints (and repair them) before replacing the computer.
 
Thanks for all your help. I looked and checked the distributor cap, ok - checked the leads, ok and the plugs, all ok. The car then drove smoothly again. When I used the car an hour later it was back. I'm going to put some time aside to look closely at these items. Best wishes Jason
 

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