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sunroof motor

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Can anyone tell me where to find the sunroof motor?
First, the 'legs' would not retract to remove sunroof but would still go up and down. So, today thought I would have a look. Flicked switch, 'legs'retracted, thought great fixed. But then, would not return. After combinations of running engine and not, hearing wurring on and of, to finally not hearing motor running at all. Checked fuse, stripped back and opened up to reveal cogs etc. Understand the principals, but no sound of motor ????Looked at my Haynes manual and cd rom but of no help.
So my sunroof is down but not locked into place.
Thanks for your suggestions in advance.
This is highly embarrasing as earlier thread of 'don't diss the sunroof campaign'
 
Sounds like a similar problem to the one I had a couple of months back. Motor is in nearside rear wing behind a cover in the tailgate area in front of the battery. On mine the drive coil had disappeared right back down the tube and wrapped itself around the motor area. Fortunately one of the mechanics at Northway sorted it for me whwn I had a service, but apparently it wasn't a nice job! Search for sunroof at 'http://www.clarks-garage.com' and it explains the setup quite well. Good Luck. Nathan
 
Thanks. The coil is still there, but the drivers side is on the cusp which is maybe where it should be to allow travel. Will look at website and have a look in that location. I know sunroofs are a common problem wth worn teeth on cogs etc. Mine look fine, what concerns me now is no sound from the motor. Maybe it is that the worm screw has gone too far and now jammed the motor.
 
My front microswitch was dirty this let the roof close and legs retract (ignition position 1) but it would only open sometimes and the legs wouldn't always move back into the lock position.
This can be checked by winding the arms upwards manually - there is a nut on the motor to allow this. If it will always go down electrically the front microswitch is the problem. I soaked my switch in contact cleaner and exercised it. Its still working fine a year or more later. The triangular plastic bit that operates the front microswitch can also break and mislocate.

Tony
 
Why oh why did I start fiddling around when it was getting dark?
I thought I would at least poke about to try and find the location of the motor, then call it a night. Pulled up carpet to reveal a membrane over rear wheel. Pressed about a bit to try and feel what was under it. Suddenly, motor wurred then stopped, then again.
So, tried switch, nothing.
Realised sunroof was up about 10mm.
Tried to pull membrane then.... pop! fuse blew!
Stuck another fuse in, again it blew.
So I was left with my suroof ajar, already dark. The fuse also doubles as the boot release so now shut, it's the scrabble over back seats and the impossible task of opening manually, when I finally get round to it which can only be the weekend.
So, it's now shorting somewhere?
As I walked dejected back into the house a kid pulled up on his push bike. Basically, he knew who had knicked my dust caps (another thread) and will get them back. He said that the kid was trying to sell them.
Question, If he gives me them back and I give him a couple of quid will it be
a. good kid, reward due
b. bad kid, good scam
c. get them back, give him a slap just in case and then a couple of quid?

So, after that I went back out to the car, pulled it apart, opened up the leg/cog mounts and drop the roof that way.
If you could be bothered to read all that, before I do anything silly what might be the best next thing. I guess expose motor.
 
I recon your best bet is to expose the motor and try to see what is going on. You never know, with all the prodding around you might have pushed a wire or contact on to another one, thus causing the short. Next I would try to remove the motor and test it straight to the battery to see if it runs. That way you know if it is the motor or the switch.[:)]
 
Basically the short was caused by the wire being gradually cut where they rested on the join of the rear wing and wheel arch. My 'prodding' about (in the wrong area) the other night broke the 'camels back' of the wires I guess. They must of been exposed and me pulling the carpet etc about obviously caused it to short.
The pics aren't that good, but you can see the burnt area on the drain tube.
I cut the bad pieces of wire and reconneced them. Replaced fuse still nothing. Lots of scratching of head, checking connections.
When turning ignition on found my dials weren't showing any readings. 'Can of worms' etc 'What have I done..!'
I checked the fuse again and read the printout on the underside of lid to find there was another sunroof fuse. Replaced that. It worked, but only up and down. For some reason the legs don't retract, which is a bummer but thought I would quit when I was ahead and think about that one some other time.
The first fuse is no.1 and is for the tailgate release and the sunroof, the second is no. 18 and is for the instruments (hence no reading!) hall generator (what on earth is that?) and sunroof relay. Also, but not blown no.36 radio,clock and sunroof relay.

754C7B72A59A477CAEEDB6C2143EB3D6.jpg
 
Had a similar problem, usage became gradually more intermittent then down to just lock and unlock. Finally finished up with unlocked only. Friend who is an auto-electrics guy went over it on Saturday morning. Seems both my original switch and one received as a 'second user' test spare have both failed.
The test is to remove the switch on the centre console from the plug-in base. With a test lamp make sure there is power coming to the left hand centre plug point. If a test light lights up then the chances are your problems are being caused by a duff switch. In my case a jumper wire used carefully from that centre plug point and jumper'd to the right hand front (down) connection or rear (up) connection moves the roof quite happily. In ignition switch position one it locks and unlocks as appropriate. In switch two - ignition on - this raises and lowers the roof.

In my case reading the FAQ also raised the point that the front - roof in / roof out - sensing micro-switch might have been faulty or out of adjustment. So I've taken it out of circuit - wire snipped off switch and permanently connected to each other then insulated with tape. Allegedly this is a common mod.

I'm picking a new switch (£37.50 + Vat - Ouch!) up from my nearest OPC in Exeter as I'm passing by Wednesday morning.

HTH

Steve Switzer
('85 India Red 944 Lux - Auto)
 
Looks like it is a duff switch, as I tested the socket and it re-tracts and pushes back the legs. Couldn't get switch to work, so luckily have just won one on e-bay![:D]
So, when it arrives hopefully pop it in and (agian) 'hey presto' it'll work.
 
'Hey presto'.. it didn't work.[:mad:]
Cut a long story short.
Took out blanking plate.
Moved the other switches to the left.
Piggy backed my e-bay switch from the original.
Now got two sunroof switches in dash.
Both in ignition 2 work.
Two bespoke switches!!!!!
One to raise and lower roof.
And the second to retract and push back legs[:D][:D](whats the opposite of retract?)

The big plus side to this means it can be removed on the go (like all the modern cars do) via the press of switch no. 2 and then sending my wife through the window onto the roof.... you get the picture?[:)]
 
Thats a new fix [:D][:D][:D]

I believe with the suction at 150mph you will have created the worlds first 944 ejector system [:eek:]

Don't tell Simmo, he will pay BIG money for that option
 
c. get them back, give him a 'DRY' (what ever that surpose to mean) slap just in case and then a couple of quid?
 
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